Crete highlights: The 20 best tips for the island

Two months, our own car, 3,750 kilometers, and a daughter who was not yet two years old at the time: that’s how we explored the island of Crete, from the lagoons in the west to the secluded coves in the far east. During that time, we collected our personal Crete highlights: the places that took our breath away, the beaches where we simply didn’t want to drive any further, and the mountain villages where time seems to stand still.

Crete is so vast and diverse that even two months aren’t enough to truly get to know the island. And that’s exactly what we love about it. Tom & Ella

The island stretches from west to east across four major regions: Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion, and Lasithi, with a total length of around 250 km and a coastline of over 1,000 km. A single vacation simply isn’t enough to truly experience all the sights of Crete. We’ve tried, and we’re still not done.

In this post, we’ll take you to Caribbean-style beaches, sleepy mountain villages, ancient sites, and through wildly romantic gorges. All places we’ve visited ourselves and that are so beautiful we want to share them with you. Let our favourite places in Crete inspire you as you discover Greece’s most diverse island. Through the eyes of someone who’s actually been there.

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#1 Crete Highlights in the West

To discover the most beautiful places in Crete, you should plan plenty of time. In 2022, we spent a total of two months traveling around Crete in our own car and explored the island extensively. By the end, we had 3,750 km more on the odometer. 🙂

The western part of Crete, in particular, truly has something to offer for every taste. From a tourist perspective, the region around Chania is very well connected thanks to the international airport, and several popular destinations await you. That is, provided you enjoy driving a rental car on vacation, as the distances in Crete should not be underestimated.

You shouldn’t miss the beautiful city of Chania, which for us personally is the most photogenic place on Crete. During peak season, you’ll have to share the most popular Crete attractions like Balos and Elafonissi with hundreds of other vacationers. With the spectacular Samaria Gorge, the region boasts one of the most popular hiking destinations in Europe.

If you have the chance to visit in early May or late September, you can look forward to a bit more peace and quiet. The villages in the hinterland between Kissamos and Paleochora are very traditional and offer a taste of authentic Crete. Especially Paleochora is a paradise for independent travelers, and with the right tips, you’ll be well-prepared.

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#2 Balos and Elafonisi

The Caribbean-like lagoons of Crete are real visitor magnets in the west. For us personally, the most impressive is the Balos Lagoon in the northwest on the Gramvousa Peninsula. The lagoon has an offshore island connected to the peninsula by a sandbar.

Balos is accessible only by boat or via a rough gravel road. Since many car rental companies contractually prohibit driving on unpaved roads, a boat tour to Balos is recommended. Tours depart several times a day from the port town of Kissamos. Learn more about prices and availability of the tours through our partner GetYourGuide*:

➲ To the organized boat-trips*

A trip to the southwest to the lagoon landscape of Elafonisi is also well worth it. Here, too, the sea shimmers in the most beautiful shades of blue. Due to the long journey to the farthest tip of Crete, the crowds in Elafonisi aren’t quite as large during the off-season.

Nevertheless, both of Crete’s lagoons are very crowded during the summer months. It’s best to visit early in the morning, before 10 a.m., otherwise the paradisiacal vacation atmosphere gets lost in the crowds. If you’d like, you can also join a guided bus tour here, e.g., via GetYourGuide*:

➲ Check guided tours to the lagoon*

As an alternative for swimming, we recommend the mile-long Falassarna Beach, not far from Kissamos. Due to the size of the sandy beach, the crowds are better spread out here. You can always find a quiet spot on certain sections of Falassarna Beach. The northern section is ideal, particularly for families with children, thanks to its shallow shoreline and small swimming pools.

#3 Chania: Crete’s Most Beautiful City

Hailed as the most beautiful city in Crete, Chania truly lives up to its name. The sometimes chaotic traffic in the city center and the lack of parking hardly detract from the overall impression of the beautiful old town.

The historic alleys of Chania are lined with colorful bougainvillea, and you’ll find plenty of great photo opportunities around every corner. You can stroll through the maze of alleys for hours, where small shops and boutiques alternate with quaint taverns and cafés.

From the Firka Fortress, you can enjoy a stunning panoramic view of the city. Around the picturesque Venetian harbor of Chania, there are countless restaurants vying for customers’ attention with fresh fish.

The second-largest city in Crete is also one of the oldest inhabited settlements in Europe and is home to numerous historic buildings, such as the Hassan Pasha Mosque or the striking Chania Lighthouse at the Venetian harbor.

Chania is a wonderful starting point for further beautiful excursions in western Crete. The guided GetYourGuide* tours are very diverse; we recommend, among other things, quad or jeep safaris into the hinterland:

➲ View all guided tours*

#4 Samaria Gorge Hike

The Samaria Gorge in the national park of the same name is considered the most popular hiking destination in Crete. After all, over 3,000 people make the pilgrimage through the gorge every day in the summer. The hike itself is no easy feat, but you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking scenery.

The region around the gorge has been a nature reserve since 1962 and is now the only national park on Crete. The so-called Kri-Kri, the Cretan wild goats, still roam this wild landscape. On a hike, you might encounter the distinctive Greek chamois.

You’ll need at least 5–6 hours to hike the nearly 13–14 km-long gorge. Nature-loving travelers to Crete can look forward to stunning hiking panoramas. Highlights of the gorge include the very narrow rock gates known as the Iron Gates. The Samaria hike can be undertaken on your own or as a guided hiking tour, bookable via GetYourGuide*:

➲ Guided hike through the gorge*

#5 Akrotiri Peninsula

The Akrotiri Peninsula stretches across the northwest of Crete, not far from Chania. Even today, the area is primarily used for agricultural purposes, such as olive and fruit cultivation. The first Crete resorts and vacation parks have already established themselves on the western side of the peninsula.

The region is truly captivating, with beautiful beaches and swimming coves scattered all around the peninsula. The town of Stavros, in particular, enjoys immense popularity. Parts of the 1964 film *Zorba the Greek*, starring Hollywood legend Anthony Quinn, were filmed at Zorbas Beach, including the sirtaki dance and the cable car scene.

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Agia Triada Monastery

For centuries, the Akrotiri Peninsula has been considered a retreat for the Orthodox Church. Near the Chania Airport is the Agia Triada Monastery, which is well worth a visit. It’s best to arrive before 11 a.m. to avoid the large crowds of tourists (including bus tours).

In the early morning hours, a magical silence accompanies you through the well-maintained grounds, where numerous cats roam about, seeking a shady spot before the midday heat sets in.

This impressive Cretan monastery was built in the 17th century under Venetian rule and, with its terracotta-colored buildings, is a photogenic gem. In the center of the complex stands the Orthodox Church of the Holy Trinity, featuring magnificent icons.

The monks living here grow fine wine and olives around the monastery. You can purchase these organic products in the monastery shop. A small admission fee is charged to tour the interior of the monastery.

Hike to the Katholiko Monastery

About 4 km northwest of Agia Triada, you’ll find another monastery in Crete worth visiting: the Gouverneto Monastery. From here, it’s worth taking a hike along the Avlaki Gorge to the Katholiko Monastery (40 min), one of the most impressive structures in Crete. Behind the church, you’ll cross the bridge down to the bay of the same name (approx. 1 hour).

Seitan Limani Beach

From the Agia Triada Monastery, it’s worth taking a detour to one of Crete’s most beautiful beaches, Seitan Limani Beach. What sounds more like an Asian dessert is actually a picturesque bay that glows a spectacular turquoise blue around noon.

You’ll want to jump right in from the top. It magically draws crowds, so the bay is very busy, and the small beach barely has room for the large influx of visitors. A trail leads down to the left from the parking lot; sturdy footwear is recommended.

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For us, the real highlight was the view of Seitan Limani Bay from above. If you don’t want to swim among crowds during peak season, we think you can skip the steep descent and just enjoy the view from above.

#6 Highlights of Southern Crete

Southern Crete still feels somewhat sleepy and has so far been spared from mass tourism. Hippies used to flock here; today, you’ll encounter numerous independent travelers between Plakias and Ierapetra. Quaint coastal hamlets like Agios Pavlos and Triopetra near Agia Galini or Lentas near Matala have their own charm.

Tourism comes at a price; in many places, the unspoiled landscape of southern Crete has had to make way for large greenhouses. The area around Ierapetra, in particular, has been severely affected by this. Some of the facilities appear to be no longer in operation and are a real eyesore on the otherwise very pretty coastline.

#7 Preveli Palm Beach

One of the most beautiful highlights of Crete is undoubtedly Preveli Palm Beach. While only hikers got to see this natural paradise 20 years ago, the place is now a popular destination for many Crete vacationers. Preveli is located about 45 minutes from Rethymno, and even the drive through the Kotsifou Gorge is sure to impress.

The Megalopotamos River flows into the sea at Preveli Beach. A striking number of Cretan date palms of the species Phoenix theophrasti grow in the river valley, giving this picturesque spot the feel of an enchanted oasis. You can reach Preveli only by boat or on foot from the parking lot above the beach or from the hamlet of Ammoudi.

From Preveli Beach, a short hiking trail leads through the idyllic palm grove. Afterward, you’ll visit the Preveli Monastery above the beach. To experience this highlight in Crete, you can also join an organized bus tour through our partner GetYourGuide*:

➲ Take a tour to the Palm forest*

Coastal town of Agia Galini

About 45 km from Preveli lies the coastal town of Agia Galini, a place touted in many guidebooks as the pearl of southern Crete. Our first impression, however, was rather sobering.

Agia Galini struck us as a town that had been hastily built up, so we weren’t particularly impressed. Perhaps it was simply because we’d already seen much more beautiful Greek coastal towns. The only thing that really impressed us was the view of the town from the pier and the amphitheater.

#8 Red Beach (Kokkini Ammos)

We continue our exploration along the south coast toward Matala. At the end of the town, a trail on the left leads up into the mountains, and after about a 20-minute walk, you reach Kokkini Ammos Beach.

This beach in Crete is also known as Red Beach. The bay lives up to its name, welcoming you with reddish sand and turquoise-blue water.

Since the beach has been voted one of Europe’s most popular nudist spots, you’ll have to share it with a few nudists and, during peak season, with numerous other tourists as well.

#9 Matala: Crete’s Hippie Village

Crete’s former hippie village is picturesquely nestled among massive sandstone cliffs. The striking caves have been inhabited since ancient times, and in the 1970s, hippies and flower children also made their home here. Today, the former fishing village feels more like a tourist attraction.

Admission to the unsecured cave dwellings now costs €5, and the otherwise pleasant sandy beach at Matala is covered with umbrellas during the high season. The narrow streets have been converted into shopping districts and are home to countless shops and souvenir stores.

Among the numerous shops, there are also interesting stores, such as the AP Ceramics pottery shop, where you can purchase handmade and affordable ceramic goods. The bar district of Matala on the southern edge of town also exudes charm. Although it was redesigned in 2021 and no longer looks quite as rustic, it’s still a great place to linger.

If Matala Beach is too crowded for you, you can head behind the bar district to the rocky cliffs and take a few steps down to swim in the clear sea water. Alternatively, we recommend the beaches of Kommos and Kalamaki, located north of Matala.

Botano: Herbs from Crete

On your exploration tour of southern Crete, it’s worth stopping in the tranquil village of Listaros, not far from Matala. Entrepreneur Jannis has realized his dream of owning his own herb shop here in Crete. At Botano, numerous varieties of tea and spices from the island are available.

As soon as you walk in, an ethereal scent greets you, and we stocked up on plenty of the finest herbs from Crete. The herb shop gained fame through appearing in many documentaries on German and British television. In the evening, it’s worth stopping by at Zoi’s Cafe Bistro Wine Bar, where you’ll be welcomed by the very friendly owner, Manolis.

Until 2022, Botano was located in the village of Kouses, which is worth a detour. In the center of Kouses, the white Agia Anna village church shines as brightly as the colorful bougainvillea. From here, you have a great view of the Messara Plain. In the village of Kouses, there is a small kafenion, ideal for a midday snack.

#10 Crete Highlights in the East

The further east you go, the quieter it gets. While the city of Agios Nikolaos is still bustling, things are laid-back in Sitia, 60 km away. Even though the city of Sitia doesn’t look very inviting from a distance, it’s worth a visit. The harbor promenade is perfect for a stroll, and every evening there’s a real festival atmosphere here.

The region plays hardly any role in international tourism and is therefore considered an undiscovered gem with some secluded Cretan beaches. Especially in the southeast, true Cretan highlights await you, including Zakros and Xerokampos. To promote sustainable tourism, the Sitia Geopark was established in recent years.

The Sitia Geopark stretches from Mouliana in the north to Cape Sidero and extends south to Xerokampos. Stunning coastal stretches alternate with picturesque mountain landscapes. In between, you’ll find many unspoiled villages. Countless hiking trails invite you on discovery tours far away from mass tourism.

#11 Town of Agios Nikolaos

We fell in love with this coastal town in the northeast right away. Although the atmosphere is very bustling and touristy, the location of Agios Nikolaos on a narrow spit of land is particularly charming.

The typical white houses in the center are clustered around the striking Lake Voulismeni, a 65-meter-deep freshwater basin that has been connected to the sea since 1870. A visit to Agios Nikolaos is well worth it for a leisurely stroll.

Restaurants line up one after another along the cozy promenade. Above the lake, there are several cafés where you can enjoy a cool frappé along with a fantastic view of the harbor and the turquoise-blue Mirabello Bay.

The lower streets of Agios Nikolaos are traffic-calmed and home to many shops and boutiques. Ammos Beach, near the town’s marina, is also the perfect spot to cool off after a stroll through town. From Agios Nikolaos, it’s worth taking a trip to the Lasithi Plateau, about 40 km west of the town, where tranquility and unspoiled nature await.

#12 Elounda and Spinalonga

Elounda is located about 10 km north of Agios Nikolaos. While it was still a quiet place just a few years ago, the former fishing village has since become a real tourist magnet. The reason for this is the picturesque bay of Elounda, complete with its offshore peninsula (Spinalonga) and turquoise-blue dream bay.

You can relax wonderfully along the lagoon-like coastline. However, the region around the former settlements of Elounda (including Schisma, Pano Elounta, Mavrikiano, Pinai, and Plaka) is being heavily developed by investors in the tourism industry. As a result, part of the picture-perfect coastal landscape has already been overdeveloped.

The main attraction of Elounda is the island of Spinalonga Kalydon, located directly across from the hamlet of Plaka. Here, the Venetians built a mighty fortress in the 16th century. Later, the small island served as Crete’s leper colony until 1957. Today, you can visit the island and the buildings of the exiles by boat from Plaka, bookable via GetYourGuide*:

➲ See excursions to the island*

#13 Mochlos and Richtis Gorge

Our journey takes us further along the Gulf of Mirabello to the charming fishing village of Mochlos. The sun was just setting when we spontaneously decided to stop here for dinner. What can we say—we didn’t regret it!

Mochlos turned out to be one of the most beautiful coastal towns in Crete for us. Even in early August, it’s peaceful and quiet here. Right on the shore, which is lined with rugged cliffs, one tavern follows another.

With a glass of wine in hand, you can sit beneath twinkling string lights, enjoy delicious Greek food, and listen to the sound of the sea. Across from Mochlos lies the offshore island of the same name, featuring the remains of a Minoan settlement.

The town exudes a magical atmosphere and a sense of authenticity that is unmatched in Crete. This is likely why the region around Mochlos is still considered an insider’s tip in northern Crete.

Hike to the Richtis Gorge

Near the village of Exo Mouliana, about 20 km from Mochlos, lies the Richtis Gorge. A hike through the lush Richtis Gorge is worth it just for the Richtis Waterfall, which you’ll reach halfway through the trail.

The water cascades down moss-covered slopes into a small lagoon in a truly magical scene. If you’re not afraid of the cold, you can take a refreshing dip in the pool. Despite the icy water temperatures, the enchanting scenery gave us a bit of a Bali vibe.

There are two starting points for the hike through the gorge. From the village of Exo Mouliana, you descend into the Richtis Gorge via numerous steps. It takes about two hours to reach the waterfall. From Richtis Beach, the hike is quicker, and you’ll be in the heart of the gorge in about 30 minutes.

You can drive a rental car all the way down to the beach, but the rugged asphalt road is in poor condition, so caution is advised on the way down. At the bottom, you’ll find a parking lot from which you can enter the Richtis Gorge.

#14 Vai Palm Beach

At the very northeastern tip of Crete, you can admire one of Europe’s few genuine palm beaches. Hundreds of Cretan palm trees (Phoenix theophrastii) line an entire valley in Vai, stretching all the way to the bright sandy beach.

It’s a dreamlike place, if only you didn’t have to share it with countless other tourists every day. At Vai Beach, there’s a paid parking lot, as well as several cafés and a sun lounger rental service.

From Vai Beach, you can walk along the mountainside to a viewing platform. From here, you have a great panoramic view of the palm forest and the bay. However, Crete’s largest palm forest is now closed to visitors.

The reason for this is the litter that was carelessly discarded in the past. Additionally, many people have carved their names into the trunks of this endangered palm species. So, a selfie under the palm trees at Vai Beach is now only possible on the beach itself.

#15 Xerokambos and Zakros

The road from Vai winds its way through barren landscape to the southeasternmost tip of Crete. Once you’ve passed the last barren ridge, you’ll be greeted by a breathtaking view of the turquoise-blue bay of Xerokambos.

Along the coastal road, you’ll find several picture-perfect bays. The white sandy beaches are fine-grained, and the sea is turquoise-blue and crystal-clear. A Caribbean-style beach paradise in Crete for those seeking peace and quiet and beach lovers alike. Due to its isolated location far from tourist centers, only a few people find their way here.

On the many beaches, you’ll still find plenty of open spots and can swim in relative peace. With the Minoan Palace of Zakros, the region offers another Crete highlight for history buffs. The gorge of the same name, also known as the Valley of the Dead, is considered one of the most impressive hiking spots in Crete.

In recent years, several taverns (Our Tip: Liviko View Restaurant) and vacation homes have opened up, attracting an increasing number of independent travelers. It remains to be seen how long this idyllic spot will remain so peaceful; we hope to be enchanted once again on our next visit.

#16 Highlights of Northern Crete

Rethymno, the cozy port town, and Heraklion, the capital of Crete, are the two main tourist hubs in the north. In between lie countless beaches and numerous Crete holiday resorts such as Bali, Agia Pelagia, and Chersonisos. Towering over the region in the background is the mighty Psiloritis, Crete’s highest mountain at 2,456 meters.

With the Palace of Knossos, the north is home to Crete’s most visited ancient site. Every year, hundreds of thousands make the pilgrimage to Knossos. Hiking enthusiasts, on the other hand, roam the famous Myli Gorge (Mill Valley) not far from Rethymnon. Arkadi, the island’s most significant monastery, is just 30 minutes from the city.

#17 Knossos Palace near Heraklion

The Minoan Palace of Knossos is one of the most significant archaeological sites of Greece. The advanced Minoan civilization originated in Crete and shaped ancient Greece for over 1,000 years. History buffs should not miss this attraction during their Crete holiday.

We recommend taking a guided tour of the site, as the complexity of Minoan culture requires some expert knowledge. The Minoans were deeply connected to nature and already practiced a distinct cult of the gods, particularly centered on Zeus, the father of the gods. If Knossos feels too crowded, you should head to the Palace of Phaistos.

If you want to visit Knossos in Crete, you should definitely purchase your ticket online to avoid the line at the entrance. For history buffs, it’s also worth booking a professional guide who will take you on a vivid tour of the site. We booked our guide directly through GetYourGuide* and were very satisfied:

➲ Buy your online ticket here*

City tour of Heraklion

As Crete’s largest city, Heraklion doesn’t necessarily exude the typical island vibe, yet there are some lovely spots to discover. You’ll also find some of the island’s best restaurants here. Culture enthusiasts will be delighted by the abundance of museums (including the Archaeological Museum), art galleries, and historical sites from various eras.

Heraklion is a young capital city and is also considered a Greek student town; the University of Crete is known for its medical and philosophy departments. In recent years, several trendy bars and restaurants have opened up, which you can discover in the alleys of the bustling city center.

On an organized guided tour of Heraklion, you’ll get to know the most beautiful spots in this city of 200,000 residents. Click the link to view suitable city tours via GetYourGuide*:

➲ View guided tours for the city*

Visiting the wine village of Archanes

Less than ten minutes from Knossos lies the quaint village of Archanes, which has so far been discovered by only a few tourists. The large village is situated below the mighty Mount Giouchtas (also known as Juchtas – 811 m), from whose summit there is a breathtaking view of Heraklion and the north coast.

Archanes and the surrounding communities are among the oldest settlements on Crete and are also considered the island’s largest wine-growing region. The small town has managed to preserve its authentic character to this day. Every evening, there’s more going on in the Platia than in many a hotel complex. Numerous quaint taverns (tip: Kritamon) invite you to linger.

#18 City tour of Rethymnon

Rethymnon is the third-largest city in Crete after Heraklion and Chania, and a trip to this pretty coastal town is well worth it. Rethymnon is nowhere near as hectic as the other two major cities. On the contrary, the town even exudes a cozy small-town charm in parts. The Fortezza fortress and the old lighthouse are considered landmarks.

The charming old town of Rethymno, with its buildings from the Venetian and Ottoman eras, is perfect for a leisurely stroll. In the winding alleys, you’ll find many restaurants and charming cafés, as well as boutiques and shops selling unique island souvenirs.

The Venetian harbor of Rethymno looks like a mini-version of Chania. If Chania felt too bustling for you, you’ll feel more at home in Rethymno. And beach lovers will also get their money’s worth—Rethymno Beach, just a few meters from the old town, is one of the longest sandy beaches on Crete.

The area around Rethymno offers plenty of opportunities for independent explorers, as well as for travelers who prefer to join guided tours, whether it’s a wine tasting, a quad bike tour, or a hike. You can find suitable tours on GetYourGuide*:

➲ View organized trips around the city*

#19 Arkadi: Crete’s most significant monastery

The Iera Moni Arkadiou Monastery, or Arkadi for short, is located about 20 km from Rethymno and is considered by Cretans today to be the most important national monument on the entire island. The complex was founded in the 14th century and remained in continuous use until 1866. The monastery played a significant role in the Greek War of Independence.

During the struggle against the Ottoman occupiers, many inhabitants of Crete, including numerous resistance fighters, found refuge in the Arkadi Monastery. On November 7, 1866, the Ottomans attacked the monastery with a superior force of 15,000 soldiers.

In their desperation, the residents seeking shelter—including many women and children—blew themselves up in the monastery’s former powder magazine. The ceilingless room where the tragedy unfolded can still be visited today.

• Arkadi Monastery opening hours: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. in summer, admission €4

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#20 Sfentoni Cave

Crete is home to countless caves and grottos, most of which are barely accessible to tourists. One of the most impressive caves, which you can even walk through, is the Sfentoni Cave near Zoniana. The stalactite cave lies beneath the mighty Psiloritis mountain range and is about an hour away from Rethymno.

The Sfentoni Cave covers an area of 3,000 m², and about two-thirds of it can be explored during an entertaining guided tour. The massive stalagmites and labyrinthine vaults are even skillfully illuminated by spotlights.

• Sfentoni Cave opening hours: daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. (last tour approx. 4:30 p.m.), €7 admission (reduced €4)

After exploring the cave, it’s worth visiting the mountain village of Anogia, perched 740 meters above sea level. Although the village was burned down by the German Wehrmacht during World War II, it has been extensively restored in recent years. The lower part of Anogia, with its quaint Platia, exudes a lot of charm.

More Crete info for your vacation

To ensure your vacation on Greece’s largest island is an unforgettable experience, we’ve compiled some helpful links for you below. Want to learn more about getting there, rental cars, weather, and accommodations in Crete? You’ll find everything at a glance in this post: Crete Travel Tips

→ Find accommodations in Crete here: Go to Booking.com*

→ Book a rental car for Crete here: Go to Discover Cars*

→ Excursions and tours in Crete: Go to GetYourGuide*

→ Find all posts about the island here: Crete Blog

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