Sitia on Crete: 8 highlights in the northeast of the island

Although Crete is the most popular Greek island, only a few holidaymakers end up in the far east of Crete. Package holidaymakers are scared off by the two-hour transfer from the airport in Heraklion to the provincial town Sitia. Individualists and Crete fans, on the other hand, particularly appreciate this remote part of the island.

»In addition to the friendly coastal town of Sitia, there are sleepy villages, numerous dream beaches and archaeological sites to discover in eastern Crete.«

With a national airport, the region around Sitia has also regularly flights from Athens. Nevertheless, the region has so far been spared from mass tourism. Only the palm beach of Vai attracts numerous day trippers who stay for a few hours on this picturesque stretch of coast.

It’s high time we took a closer look at the still relatively unknown East of Crete. We show you our most beautiful highlights around Sitia:

#1 Walking tour of Sitia

Sitia is after Agios Nikolaos and Ierapetra the third largest city in the Lassithi Region in the east of Crete. The harbour town with its approximately 9,400 inhabitants stands out from afar with its modern concrete architecture. However, if we go on a tour into the heart of the city, we will very quickly discover many a photogenic corner.

Behind the Archaeological Museum of Sitia you can park your vehicle free of charge in a large public car park. The museum (Tue.-Sun. 9 a.m.-4 p.m., 3 €) with finds from the sites of Zakros, Petra and Palekastro is worth a visit. The highlight is the Kouros of Palekastro, a bust of a young man made of ivory and gold.

Afterwards we go over the Andrea Papandreou street to the wide pier of Sitia. Ferries run regularly from here to Rhodes (via Karpathos) or to Piraeus (via Santorini). Along the palm-lined waterfront of Sitia with its numerous cafés and taverns, it is wonderful to linger.

This is also where the central Platia of Sitia is situated. There is nothing going on here for a siesta, but all the more so in the evening. The entire harbour promenade of Sitia then comes to life and many restaurants are filled to the last seat. After sunset, there is an exuberant atmosphere here, with a real folk festival character.

If you are looking for an original Crete souvenir, you will find it in the Kipseli – Cretan Traditional Products. Owner Sofia offers high-quality Cretan products such as soaps, wine, raki, olive oil and honey in her shop. The latter are even made by the family itself. The Savidakis Thyme Honey is particularly recommended.

Far-reaching view from Kazarma Fortress

The area around Sitia was already settled in Minoan times around 1,500 BC. However, today’s coastal city was only founded by the Venetians in the late Middle Ages. They gave it the name “La Sitia”, from which Lasithi was later derived as the name of today’s prefecture.

Behind the harbour, pastel-coloured houses stretch up a slope like an amphitheatre, at the highest point of which the old Venetian Fortress Kazarma from the 13th century. It was once built by the Crusaders, destroyed several times by earthquakes and pirate attacks and rebuilt by various rulers.

In 1651, however, the Kastro was taken by the Ottomans. In the course of the siege, they destroyed almost the entire city. Reconstruction began slowly only in the middle of the 19th century. Thus, with the exception of a few historic houses above the harbor, concrete buildings characterize today’s cityscape.

The massive walls including the bastion are still well preserved, otherwise there is not much to see inside the castle ruins. The Kazarma Fortress is now used for changing events and concerts. The magnificent view of Sitia compensates for the sweaty ascent over countless steps. (Wed.-Mon. 8:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m., 3 €)

#2 Sitia Geopark: Natural paradise of East Crete

For the preservation of the flora and fauna in the region, as well as to make the extraordinary geological geology tangible, the Sitia UNESCO Global Geopark was founded. It includes a large part of eastern Crete and stretches in the north from Cape Sidero to the Richtis Gorge via the mountain village of Ziros to the south to Xerokampos.

The park includes numerous caves and gorges and is home to protected plant and animal species, including Eleonora’s falcons, peregrine falcons and golden eagles. In many places, important fossils have also been found. The Sitia Geopark Infocenter is located on the waterfront of the town of Sitia.

In the entire Geopark, has 17 varied hiking trails so-called geo-routes, which lead past particularly interesting geological formations. The routes vary from short hikes to day tours. You can find more information at: Geopark Sitia

The charming Route 16 runs outside Sitia, not far from the national airport, through the Agii Pandes Gorge (Gorge All Saints). From Platani Beach, you can take a short walk through the lush green gorge to the eponymous Agii Pantes Church. Impressive sandstone formations and grottos line the fertile valley, where agriculture is still practiced today.

#3 Richtis Gorge

A unique natural jewel awaits you just 15 km west of Sitia. Not far from the fishing village of Mochlos (see #4) is the lush green Richtis Gorge. It leads in just under 4 km from the mountain village of Exo Mouliana down to the coast to Richtis Beach.

About 1 km below the village on the Stone Bridge Lachanas from the 19th century, the moderately difficult tour through the Richtis Gorge starts. The hiking trail (Georoute 17) winds through dense vegetation, past the remains of old watermills and along a stream that has to be crossed again and again.

Sturdy shoes are recommended, as there are also some climbs. In season, a gorge entrance fee of 3 € is charged. You can reach the heart of the gorge after 2 hours. The 20 m high Richtis Waterfall nestles picturesquely into the unspoilt landscape and sometimes still carries water even in midsummer.

If you want to shorten a bit, from Exo Mouliana follow the signs to the Richtis Beach. Over a dilapidated and very narrow concrete track you get down to the coast to a parking area (Richtis Gorge Parking). From here it is only a 30-minute walk to the waterfall.

#4 Fishing village of Mochlos

If you ask us for one of the most beautiful villages of Crete then Mochlos is at the top of our list. About halfway between Agios Nikolaos and Sitia lies the tranquil fishing village. Coming from Sitia, you can make a detour to the quaint mountain village of Tourloti, which offers a great panorama of Mochlos.

From the Crete Island Highway there is a branch from the neighboring village of Sfaka to the coast towards Mochlos. From afar you can see the housing estate including the island dwarf in front of it. There is free parking on the western edge of the village. The compact town centre is rustic and charming at the same time, with colourful bougainvillea towering over whitewashed houses.

Around the rocky bay with a narrow sandy beach lie cozy taverns (Hint! Ta Kochilia), where you can stop for a lunch snack. Especially in the evening, the atmosphere in Mochlos is romantic. In the tranquil Oktana Cafe Bar you can end the day, the chairs are placed directly on the rocky shore.

History buffs will find the village of the same name opposite the village. The islet of Mochlos (also known as Agios Nikolaos) is located off the coast of Crete. American archaeologists uncovered traces of a Minoan port settlement and burial chambers there in the 20th century. In season, boat transfers are offered from Mochlos to the rocky island.

#5 Visiting Toplou Monastery

Only 20 minutes by car east of Sitia in a largely barren, dry landscape lies the monastery of Moni Toplou (also Moni Akrotiriani), which looks like a fortress from the outside. Only the 33 m high bell tower towers above the massive walls. On the way to Vai or Itanos, it is worth making a short stop in one of the most important monasteries of Crete.

During the Ottoman occupation, the complex was considered a place of peace. The interior is very different compared to other monasteries in Crete, such as the Agia Triada near Chania or the Arkadi Monastery, rather compact and quickly visited. You enter the complex (€4 admission) via the main gate and enter a large outdoor courtyard with monks’ cells on the sides.

Another gate leads into the photogenic courtyard. From here you enter the small monastery church with its Maria icon »Megas i Kyrie«, which was created around 1770 by the icon painter Ioannis Kornaros. On the monastery grounds there is still an old windmill, as well as a folklore museum, which is also used as a tasting room.

The wealthy monastery, which was probably founded in the 14th century, owns numerous estates in the surrounding area on which wine and olives are grown. It is thanks to an enterprising abbot that the cultivation of the fields is ecological.

That Toplou Organic Olive Oil as well as honey and wine from the monastery can be purchased in the monastery shop. The monastery is also regularly visited as part of a guided bus tour.

Lost Place in Crete

On the coastal road towards Toplou Monastery, you will see the abandoned hotel settlementDionysos Village strike. The former holiday resort is now a ghost village, only in the upper area are some apartments still permanently inhabited. An entertaining walk takes you along empty alleys, dilapidated houses and run-down pool facilities.

#6 Erimoupoli on the Sideros Peninsula

Behind the monastery of Toplou begins the Sideros peninsula, which is one of the driest and hottest areas of Crete. A trip to the northeasternmost point of Crete is well worth it, one picturesque bay follows the other. The geologically important spot is also part of the Sitia Geopark (see section #2) and is a nature reserve.

In many places, interesting sediment and rock formations come to light, which make the heart of every geologist beat faster. However, you can’t get all the way to the Northeast Cape, behind the rugged Kyriamadi Bays with its turquoise blue water is a military restricted area.

Further south, you can walk along the natural Erimoupolis Beach. A handful of palm trees line the path to the sea, even in summer there is paradisiacal peace here. Just a few meters north you can reach another beach via a beaten path. To the south is the idyllic sandy beach of Itanos.

The beaches are still tranquil, but that will probably change in the foreseeable future. As early as 2016, the Greek government approved the luxurious Itanos Gaia Hotel Project with 1,936 beds and its own golf course. Cretans and international environmentalists vehemently oppose this. The lands belong to the Toplou Monastery, which has passed them on to wealthy investors.

Archaeological Site of Itanos

Around Erimoupolis, archaeologists uncovered some historical ruins. Most importantly, the Ancient Site of Itanos, which is located between the beaches of Erimoupolis and Itanos, and whose traces of settlement date back to prehistoric times. Until the 15th century, it was a thriving city that controlled large parts of eastern Crete.

Recurring pirate attacks and severe earthquakes (see post: Greece Earthquake) didn’t leave much of Itanos. A visit to the field of ruins is still worthwhile, the view of the surrounding coastal landscape is magnificent. Fragments of an ancient acropolis, an early Christian basilica (6th century), as well as some houses from later eras can still be seen.

#7 Palm Beach of Vai

When the first hippies discovered the beach of Vai in the 1970s, a real dream setting awaited them. A sea of palm trees stretches through a long valley to a wide sandy beach where the sea sparkles in the most beautiful shades of blue.

Even today, the caribbean flair of Vai hardly lost any of its beauty. Nevertheless, this Crete Sight completely overcrowded, especially in midsummer. If you want to enjoy the paradisiacal spot undisturbed, you have to be early or stop by in the late afternoon, when the majority of the day trippers have left again.

The unique palm grove is home to the endemic palm species Phoenix theophrastii, which can be found on Crete, among other things, on the beach of Preveli can be found. The palm forest is now closed to visitors, only near the beach you can still lie down under the shady tropical giants.

On the bright sandy beach, loungers and umbrellas are provided in different price ranges. A simple snack bar and tavern cater to hungry bathers. Since there is no parking along the road to the beach, you will have to take the paid Parking at Vai Beach (≈ 3 € per day).

Viewpoints of Vai Beach

A wonderful view over the palm forest of Vai you can enjoy from a viewpoint north of the beach. A trail leads to the left from Vai Beach above the forest to a wooden pavilion lined with boulders (GPS: 35.255779, 26.262301).

Above the restaurant you will reach another view point, from which you can also enjoy a great view of Vai Beach and the offshore rocky islet of Peristerovrachoi. Directly behind it, a trail leads to the natural Psili Ammos Beach, which is preferred by nudists.

#8 Kouremenos and Paleokastro

From Vai, our exploration tour continues south. Nature lovers can hike along the wild coast to the fishing village of Kouremenos and explore untouched beaches (including Kedromouri, Kokkinos Kavos) with sometimes bizarre rock formations. Today Kouremenos is considered to be a holiday resort for Crete individualists, where you can enjoy peace and seclusion.

At the end of the long stretch of beach of Kouremenos sits the imposing table Mountain Kastri, on which the ruins of a Venetian castle are located. Those who accept the arduous ascent cross-country will be rewarded by an impressive panorama. Below the mountain there are several good fish restaurants (tip: Chiona Taverna).

Only 2 km from the sea is the farming village of Palekastro (also Palaikastro) situated. Many inhabitants still live from agriculture (wine and olives) and fishing, tourism plays only a subordinate role. There is a yawning emptiness here for a siesta, and the majority of the taverns only open in the evening (tip: Finistrini and Retro) opened its doors.

A short walk through the village of 900 inhabitants is like a little journey through time. The folklore museum (flexible opening hours, closed on Mondays) on the outskirts of the village is run with great commitment by the locals and gives an insight into the culture and life of days gone by.

Detour to Roussolakos

Not far from Palekastro, archaeologists discovered a large Minoan site right by the sea at the beginning of the 20th century. Interestingly, the extensive field of ruins (free admission) was spared from any looting and so astonishing finds were found, including the Kouros of Palekastro, which is exhibited in the Archaeological Museum of Sitia.

The high number of finds indicates that the site was an  important trading center of the Minoans during the Late Minoan period (1550-1220 BC). Just like the most important Minoan site, the Palace of Knossos, traces are also lost in Roussolakos from 1,450 BC onwards and no settlement took place.

The different geological materials of the region have given rise to colorful beaches here. The Bontalaki Beach has rust-colored sand and red rocks, while Pilos Beach further east is golden brown.

More Sitia and East Crete Tips

Beautiful beaches around Sitia

Sitia Beach Long organized city beach with brown sand and clear water. Several beach bars provide loungers and umbrellas, some of which are free of charge when consumed.

Paralia Erimoupolis Natural sandy-pebble beach in the far northeast of Crete. The shore area drops quickly deep into the crystal clear water. Ideal spot also for snorkeling. You have to bring your own umbrella and food.

Itanos Beach Paradisiacal bathing bay framed by striking rocks. Access from the parking lot at Erimoupoli beach via the historical site of Itanos. On the sandy-pebble beach there are some Cretan date palms. The entrance to the turquoise blue sea is somewhat complicated by stone slabs in the shore area.

Vai Beach The most visited beach on the east coast, located at the end of a long valley with countless palm trees. Very busy in season. For details, see section #7 Vai Palm Beach.

Kouremenos Beach Kilometre-long sandy-pebble beach near Palekastro. Due to its spaciousness, it is not overcrowded even in midsummer. Showers and changing rooms are available, but no loungers and umbrellas. Beach bars cater for hungry bathers. The shallow shore area is also ideal for families.

Bontalaki Bathing bays with reddish sandy beach south of Paralia Chiona. The beach section with curious stone formations is natural and hardly frequented even in the high season.

Recommendations for restaurants and cafés

In the small town of Sitia, you will find a large selection of restaurants, cafés and bars in a compact area. Some gastronomic establishments are even open all year round. This makes Sitia an attractive destination even in the early and late season. And even in the hinterland, there is at least one tavern in almost every town.

Aeroinon (Piskokefalo) – Family-run tavern in the village square. Cosy atmosphere, loving host couple and tasty home cooking at fair prices.

Glaros Beach Bar (Kouremenos) – Modern beach restaurant on the waterfront of Kouremenos overlooking Kastri Mountain. Delicious food, cool drinks and good coffee at slightly higher prices.

Inodion (Sitia) – Restaurant with a tasteful ambience. Great selection of typical Cretan food and island wines, as well as helpful staff.

Matsakakis (Sitia) – Cozy café with a large terrace right on the waterfront of Sitia. Here you can find the best loukoumades (yeast dough balls) in eastern Crete. At least we found them very tasty!

Rizoviglo Restaurant (Kouremenos) – Hidden tavern above Kouremenos with great views of the surrounding area. Rustic atmosphere, hearty food and friendly hosts.

Tzivaeri (Sitia) – Rustic tavern on the waterfront with a picture gallery of Sitia in the interior. Greek cuisine at fair prices, very child-friendly staff.

Hotels for the Sitia region

In East Crete there are only a few large hotels, but all the more small family hotels, as well as beautiful villas and apartments for a relaxing individual holiday. Sitia has something to offer for every budget. On the outskirts of the city there are even 3 and 4 star hotels for the Crete Holidays.

→ Via Booking.com* you can display suitable accommodations and check prices:

Recommendations for accommodations near Sitia

Acantha Villas, Mochlos

Two villas for up to 6 people each above Mochlos with fantastic views. Stylish furnishings, beautiful garden area and optionally with pool or sun terrace.

➲ Book Acantha Villas*

Bella Mare Sitia, Agia Fotia

Lovingly designed apartment with pool for up to 4 people above the hamlet of Agia Fotia. Magnificent view of the coast of Sitia.

➲ Book Bella Mare Sitia*

Downtown Sitia Apartment

Maria and Polydoros rent two modern apartments in the heart of Sitia. Helpful hosts, extensive equipment (including washing machine) and balcony.

➲ Book Downtown Sitia Apartment*

GM exclusive luxury SUITES & SPA, Sitia

Aparthotel opened in 2022 above the harbour. Modern room décor, suites with jacuzzi and sea view.

➲ Book GM exclusive luxury Suites*

Liostasi Houses, Kouremenos

Well-kept bungalow complex with pool between Palekastro and Kouremenos. Friendly landlady, great view and good facilities.

➲ Book Liostasi House*

*Links to Booking.com

How to get to Sitia Crete

The small town on the east coast of Crete has a national airport (JSH), which is not served directly by Germany, Austria and Switzerland, i.e. a stopover in Athens is always necessary.

The currently best way to travel from Germany is a direct flight to Heraklion. Cheap flights to Crete and suitable flight connections to Sitia can be found on the portal Skyscanner*:

➲ Search for flights with Skyscanner*

The arrival by ferry to Crete is only recommended for longer stays (over 4 weeks). The ferry company Anek Lines operates the connection between Heraklion and Sitia several times a week. Ferries to Crete can be found on the portal Ferryhopper* Book directly:

➲ To the ferry booking with Ferryhopper*

Car hire for the Sitia region

At the airport in Heraklion (HER) you can rent a car and be in the coastal town of Sitia in about 2 hours (125 km). A wheeled vehicle is essential for this isolated region of Crete. For a cheap rental car for Sitia you can check Discover Cars*:

➲ To cheap car rental offers*

→ More articles and numerous Crete travel tips can be found at:

• Crete Island Overview
• Crete Highlights
• Best Crete Hotels

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