A touch of dolce vita wafts through the alleys of Agios Nikolaos in the east of Crete. The lively coastal town on the Gulf of Mirabello is not only a popular holiday destination, but with just under 12,000 inhabitants also the administrative centre of the region of Eastern Crete.
»The city of St. Nicholas has a special atmosphere and unfolds its magic in the evening, when the lights of the bars and taverns are reflected on the smooth surface of the mysterious Lake Voulismeni.«
In ancient times, the small port of Kamara of the city-state of Lato was located on this site. Only sparse remains in the city centre bear witness to this past. The place does not have a historic old town to offer, but we liked Agios Nikolaos right away despite its largely modern concrete architecture.
We will take you on a tour to the charming town and show you our highlights of the region around Agios Nikolaos on Crete:
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#1 Walking tour of Agios Nikolaos
The charming coastal town is located on a hilly peninsula on the Gulf of Mirabello in the northeast of Crete. The best way to reach Agios Nikolaos is by renting your own car. From Heraklion the journey takes about an hour, from Ierapetra about 40 minutes.
Parking in Agios Nikolaos: Once in town, you can park your vehicle at the Marina Parking Lot right next to the popular Ammos Beach for around €3 per day.
The town centre of Agios Nikolaos is very compact and easy to explore on foot. From the Marina Parking directly on the sea, follow Sofokli Venizelou Street to the central Platia El. Venizelou. On the way, you will pass the large church of Agia Triada, which, when open, is worth a quick look inside.
The shopping streets 28is Oktovriou and Roussou Koundourou spread out from the main square. Both are home to small shops and souvenir shops to stroll through, as well as modern café bars for a quick coffee break.
For your stroll through the city, we recommend the following interesting shops: Nikos Papachristos Work Shop (jeweller), Olea and NTELOGO (tasteful souvenir shops) and Mesostrati (delicatessen), as well as Bioaroma Crete (Cosmetics from Crete). Halfway up the 28is Oktovriou, turn left into the small Sfakianaki Alley, which leads directly to the shores of Lake Voulismeni, the symbol of the city.
Unlike other towns in Crete, Agios Nikolaos offers few historical remnants. In Minoan times, the place had no significant importance. History enthusiasts should take a detour to the right of Roussou Koundourou to visit the ancient Kamara excavation site. Not much is known about it, and the small excavation site looks just as deserted.
At that time, today’s small town was merely the port of the ancient city-state of Lato, which was located near the present-day mountain village of Kritsa. It was not until the 3rd century BC that the village of “Lato pros Kamara” gained importance, the sparse remains of which can still be seen opposite the OTE building.
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Church of Agios Nikolaos
Agios Nikolaos owes its name to the single-nave domed church from the 12th century, which is located on the grounds of the Minos Palace Hotel (link to Booking.com*) is located on the Ammoudi peninsula in the north of the city and can be visited. Saint Nicholas is the patron saint of the city, as well as of sailors, captains and fishermen. The famous saint still plays an important role in the coastal town today..
#2 Lake Voulismeni
What was once a freshwater lake is now a saltwater lagoon. Since 1870, Voulismeni lake has been connected to the Port of Agios Nikolaos by a 20-metre-long canal. The dark water is the heart of the city and has a diameter of about 137 m and an impressive depth of almost 64 m.
Many legends entwine around the circular lake. The mythological goddesses Athena and Artemis are said to have bathed in the moonlight here. Another legend says that the Lake Voulismeni has no bottom and is connected by an underground passage with the Santorini Island .
On the shore of Lake Voulismeni, you walk a bit, past colorful fishing boats, an old fountain and a rock chapel, the so-called Fisherman’s Crypt (also Church of the Fishermen). Shortly afterwards, numerous steps lead to the panoramic and photo motif par excellence of Agios Nikolaos.
From up here you have a wonderful view of the city. For a midday snack with a view, we recommend the cozy tavern Gioma Meze. From the highest point of the lagoon, many steps lead down to Kon/nou Paleologou Street, which leads north to the Archaeological Museum and the weekly market.
Cross the Agios Nikolaos bridge, which connects the lake with the harbour bay. Then, continue along the waterfront past numerous bars and cafés — the Puerto Café Bar is particularly worth a visit — and back to the car park via the harbour pier. On the way along the coastal road, you will pass the Monument of Europa and the Horn of Amalthea.
Archaeological Museum of Agios Nikolaos
After years of renovation, the archaeological museum of Agios Nikolaos is now open to visitors again. In several rooms, numerous finds from the eastern region of Crete (including Malia and Zakros) from the Neolithic Age to the Minoan culture to the Roman period are exhibited. Currently only open on weekends from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., admission is free.
Agios Nikolaos weekly market
The small weekly market not far from the KTEL bus station takes place every Wednesday and offers a good selection of products from Cretan producers. Self-sufficiency in particular can stock up on fruit and vegetables, honey, spices and olive oil here. Clothing and household goods are also offered.
#3 Beautiful beaches near Agios Nikolaos
In the urban area of Agios Nikolaos are two beaches: Ammos and Kitroplatia. Both are heavily frequented, especially in midsummer and on weekends, and are therefore only suitable to a limited extent for a day at the beach. The Ammos Café Bar is the place to go for a cool Freddo coffee with a sea view.
In the immediate vicinity there are other bathing facilities, which are more or less frequented depending on the location and season:
Almyros Beach Long sandy beach south of Agios Nikolaos. Well equipped with sunbeds, umbrellas and kiosk. South of the beach, the crystal clear Almiros River flows into the sea. Due to the shallow entrance into the sea, it is also ideal for children.
Ammoudi Beach City beach north of Agios Nikolaos with brown sand and turquoise-blue water. Well organised with sun lounger hire and beach tavernas. Usually crowded in summer.
Havania Beach Quiet bay north of the city made of a mixture of sand and gravel. A beach bar provides sunbeds and parasols. Changing rooms and showers are available.
Ormos Beach Deep bay with a very shallow shore north of Agios Nikolaos. Fine sandy beach with a few sun loungers and parasols, some seaweed and sometimes heavy motorboat traffic. Sheltered from the wind and ideal for families with children, as there is a large playground on site.
Voulisma Beach One of the most beautiful beaches, only 15 minutes away from Agios Nikolaos. Especially when there is no wind, the shallow bay with a bright sandy beach shimmers in a paradisiacal turquoise blue. However, the beach is only recommended in the low season, in summer it is packed here.
#4 Restaurants & cafes in Agios Nikolaos
If you venture away from the tourist restaurants, where waiters wave you in with hand signals, you’ll find some excellent Agios Nikolaos restaurants serving Mediterranean and international cuisine. Here is a small personal selection – Kali Orexi (Greek: Enjoy your meal):
- ARC Espresso & Cocktail Bar – Chilled bar and great location, perfect for the evening
- Gioma Meze – Nice restaurant above the lake, ideal for a lunch break
- Kosa – Modern café-bar in a central location, ideal for breakfast
- Le Délice – French snack bar and take-away in the main square
- Migomis – Fine dining restaurant & café with stunning lake views, ideal for a romantic dinner
- Palazzo – Stylish café bar on Kitroplatia Beach, ideal for a Freddo with sea views
- Sergiani – Restaurant on the waterfront with a focus on fish and seafood
- Taverna Portes – Quaint Greek tavern with homemade treats, very authentic!
#5 Places to stay in Agios Nikolaos
The bustling small town offers a variety of accommodation options, from simple studios on the outskirts of the city to comfortable apartments in the middle of the city and luxurious resorts just outside the village. We have enclosed a selection of nice places to stay in Agios Nikolaos. All of these can be booked via Booking.com*:
Hotel Port 7
Centrally located hotel directly on the waterfront promenade with tasteful rooms and a wonderful view of the harbour bay. Rich breakfast and friendly staff.
Emerald Lake Studios
Modern apartments just above Lake Voulismeni with amazing views from the balcony. Very central location with restaurants and cafes within walking distance.
➲ To book Emerald Lake Studios*
Filia’s Memories Apartments
Tasteful apartments in a quiet area on the south-eastern outskirts of Agios Nikolaos. Nice view of the sea and the city, short walk to the beach.
➲ To book Filia’s Memories Apartments*
Minos Beach Art Hotel
Luxurious 5-star hotel in the north of the city on a small headland. Beautiful garden and spacious complex with a narrow beach section and many swimming spots. Varied breakfast buffet and in-house restaurant.
➲ To book from Minos Beach Art Hotel*
MOD 15 City Centre
Comfortable city apartment in the center of Agios Nikolaos. Equipped as new with kitchenette. All shops and restaurants within walking distance, to the beach of Kitroplatia only 5 min. walk.
#6 Places of interest in the region
Boat trip to Spinalonga
Spinalonga-Kalydon is a small offshore island in the lagoon-like bay of Elounda. In the 16th century, the Venetians built a mighty fortress due to its strategic location, the remains of which can still be seen today.
→ More information for a trip to Leprosy Island can be found in our article: Spinalonga Island
Later, Spinalonga was home to the leper colony of Crete from 1904 to 1957. A boat trip to the island is one of the most popular excursions in the region. From Agios Nikolaos there are guided day trips to Spinalonga, bookable via GetYourGuide*:
➲ To the guided Spinalonga tours*
As an alternative option, you can take a small passenger boat from the port in Plaka, which is about 15 km north of Agios Nikolaos. This will take you to the ruins of the former leper colony of Spinalonga, where you can explore at your leisure. Many houses have been restored in recent years and from the upper fortress there are wonderful views. The boats run several times a day from morning to evening.
Excursion to the Lasithi Plateau
The Lasithi plain is located at an altitude of over 800 m and is surrounded by mighty mountains. It is the largest plateau in Crete and the numerous wind turbines with their white sails are considered the landmark of the region. The highlight is the Cave of Psychro (Diktaion Andron), which is considered the birthplace of Zeus. Great tours to Lasithi plateau are on GetYourGuide*:
➲ To the guided Lasithi tours*
From Agios Nikolaos you can reach the Lasithi Plain by rental car in about an hour via Zenia, Exo Potami and Mesa Potami. Starting from the village of Agios Konstantinos, you can then walk around the plateau once clockwise (or counterclockwise). Numerous tourist highlights await you along the way, including the stalactite cave of Zeus.
→ In this article you will find more information about this destination: Lasithi Plateau
Visit to the mountain village of Kritsa
The mountain village Kritsa is impressively located on the slopes of the Lasithi Mountains and is a popular destination in eastern Crete. The traditional place has already served as a film set and has dressed up for its visitors.
Along the main alley you will find numerous souvenir shops, shops with handicrafts and weaving as well as modern concept stores (tip: Meraki). Guided tours are also offered to Kritsa, bookable on GetYourGuide*:
In the morning or late afternoon, a stroll through the village of 1,300 inhabitants is worthwhile, because then the excursion buses are gone again and you can explore the photogenic alleys of Kritsa in peace. Those interested in history, should visit the Church of Panagia Kera, a 13th-century church with well-preserved Byzantine frescoes.
If Kritsa is too hectic for you because of the many bus groups, you can visit the neighbouring village of Kroustas. During our time in June, there was a real Greek idyll here. Children played in the alleys and the older ones met for a chat on the benches under the mulberry trees. The Tavern Xatheri will be remembered for a long time as one of the best in all of Crete!
Elounda and Plaka
The ride along the turquoise-blue Elounda Lagoon is a highlight on Crete. The coastal town of Plaka marks the beginning of the large bay, which is only intersected by a narrow channel at the windmills of Elounda. In Plaka, the ferries to the offshore island of Spinalonga depart.
The pebble beach of the fishing village of Plaka invites you to a short refreshment and in one of the cafés (tip: Isla bar) on site you can sip a cool drink with a sea view before continuing along the coast to Elounda.
Elounda region is best known for its luxurious resorts and hotels, which are among the most exclusive in the world. Greece belong. Not much is left of the original fishing village. Nevertheless, the small harbour with its colourful boats and the palm-fringed Platia behind it have a certain charm.
South of the village are the salt lake Aliki and the Windmills of Elounda. The ancient city of Olous was once located here, but it has now sunk. A walk along the lagoon to the Kalydon Peninsula and the Church of the Ascension is worth it just for the magnificent view.
The most beautiful view of the Gulf of Mirabello and Spinalonga is above Plaka near the hamlet of Chavgas. The road down to the coast offers magnificent views! If you have enough time, you can continue into the hinterland and explore cozy villages away from the coastal hustle and bustle such as Karidi, Kastelli and Fourni.
#7 Arrival by rental car or bus
If you’re planning to spend your holiday in Agios Nikolaos and the surrounding area, the easiest way to get there is to fly into Heraklion Airport, only 50 minutes away. During the season, there are numerous direct flights from Germany, Austria and Switzerland to Heraklion on Crete, bookable via Skyscanner*:
Agios Nikolaos in eastern Crete is also best reached as part of a day trip by rental car via the island highway E75. From Heraklion the journey takes about an hour, from the south coast (e.g. Ierapetra) takes about 40 minutes. From Sitia in the far east, it takes about 1 hour 15 minutes.
If you stay in Chania, you should be prepared for a long day with many kilometers. The drive from Chania to Agios Nikolaos takes just under three hours, including a short stopover. You can find good car rental deals for Crete on the portal Discover Cars*, here you can also check prices directly:
💡 Book tip Crete: The travel guide Crete from Michael Müller Verlag contains a lot of information and tips about the city of Agios Nikolaos. Order here for your holiday planning: View on Amazon*
Bus routes to Agios Nikolaos
A trip to Agios Nikolaos is also possible by public transport. The buses of the company KTEL Heraklio Lasithi connect the capital Heraklion with the towns of Hersonissos, Agios Nikolaos and Sitia.
The route Heraklion – Agios Nikolaos and back is served several times a day, takes about 90 minutes and costs about 8 €. Regular buses also run between Ierapetra and Agios Nikolaos. Further information and tickets at: KTEL Heraklion
→ More articles about the island and Numerous Crete travel tips can be found at:
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