In the middle of the deep blue Aegean Sea lies an island that hardly anyone knows, but which enchants with its rugged beauty and friendly inhabitants right away! In fact, Astypalea Island is almost forgotten by international tourism. It also took us four attempts to finally get to the island.
“Anyone who takes on the arduous journey is welcomed by an island that is more authentic than almost any other. In addition, Chora, one of the most beautiful places in Greece, awaits visitors.”
No larger island far and wide – Kos in the east and Amorgos in the northwest are three hours away, and ferry connections are rare. By Greek standards, this is a novelty and a reason why Astypalea is hardly visited. Either you fly an hour from Athens or take the eight hours by ferry from Piraeus.
We tried both options: Tom came by ferry from Piraeus to Astypalea. He describes the crossing with a smile as an odyssey of anticipation. Ella arrived relaxed with our daughter by domestic flight. The view from the airplane window of the only 114.1 km² large island with its bright white main town of Chora is indescribably beautiful!
In mid-June, we spent eight days exploring the butterfly island of the Aegean Sea, visiting lonely monasteries, picturesque beaches and unspoilt villages. So, which things to do on Astypalea? There is a lot to discover, and we will tell you below whether a holiday on Astypalea is worthwhile for you.
- #1 Chora: Astypaleas’ capital
- #2 Kastro of Astypalea
- #3 Astypaleas Windmills
- #4 Harbour town Pera Gialos
- #5 Kounoupa & Koutsomiti Boat Tour
- #6 Livadi: Green Valley of Astypalea
- #7 Kaminakia Beach
- #8 Agios Ioannis Kastro
- #9 Maltezana (Analipsi)
- #10 Solitude in Vathi
- #11 Beaches of Astypalea
- More travel tips for your Astypalea holiday
🗺️ Astypalea Map: This card includes all Astypalea Highlights, 48 Places to Visit & Insider Tips, 13 Beaches & Bays, as well as personal recommendations for 25 restaurants & cafes. Ideal for holiday planning and local navigation. Can be used for smartphone, tablet and PC/Mac. Click here and start using it right away: To the Astypalea map
#1 Chora: Astypaleas’ capital
When you see the main town of Astypalea for the first time, your heart will be warmed, because Chora is one of the most beautiful villages in Greece. Like something out of a picture book, the white cube houses are lined up a steep hill. At the top, a medieval castle crowns the scenery, from whose partly dilapidated walls a blue and white church protrudes.
The architecture of Astypalea Chora is undoubtedly reminiscent of the nearby Cycladic islands such as Naxos, Amorgos or Santorini, but Astypalea is administratively one of the Dodecanese Islands. Today, most of the island’s 1,300 inhabitants live in Chora and the port settlement of Pera Gialos (#3) directly below.
Chora was founded in the Middle Ages. To protect against pirates, a castle town was built on the steep rocks. Most of Chora is now traffic-calmed, only motorcycles barely fit through as noisy means of transport. Parking is available in the municipal car park between the patisserie Zaphora and the Asty Market.
From there it goes past the windmills of Astypalea (see #2) into the maze of alleys. Stroll along the path below the Kastros of Chora and discover many original photo spots. Best of all, while the alleys in Santorini and Mykonos are already bursting with crowds, you’re in Chora of Astypalea in many places all to yourself.
In the upper part of Chora there are now some apartments and studios for rent. On the other hand, there are hardly any opportunities for gastronomic refreshments and no shops. In 2024, the municipality issued a regulation to prevent the over-commercialization of the island and, above all, the sell-out of the authentic flair of Chora.
At the southern end is the church of Panagia Portaitissa, which is open every evening. From the churchyard you can enjoy a magnificent view of the deep blue Aegean Sea. In Chora, you should not miss the church complex, which is located near the Apanema Bar lies. The eight natural stone chapels on the Platia of Chora are all built close together and are a place of worship.
On the western slope of Chora is the Kylindra Children’s Cemetery from the 8th century situated. More than 3,000 funerary vessels have been discovered at this place, which is unique in size in the Mediterranean. A small part of it, as well as information about the site, are exhibited in the Archaeological Museum in Pera Gialos. Due to ongoing work, the excavation site is not accessible.
If you are looking for an original souvenir from Astypalea, you will definitely find what you are looking for in Chora. From the windmills to the beginning of the Kastro district, some nice shops have settled. We recommend the Katsika Boutique (clothes with goat motifs) by the designer Maria and the great souvenir shop Riza Astypalaia the friendly owner Kali.
💡 Butterfly Island of the Aegean: The island of Astypalea is also called “Butterfly Island” because it looks like a butterfly when viewed from above. A narrow land bridge at Steno (120 m) in the center of the island connects the two landmasses to the east and west, so that it looks like outstretched butterfly wings. Among the Greeks, Astypalea is usually just called Petalouda, which translates as butterfly.
#2 Kastro of Astypalea
“The castle of Astropalia, high above, it touches the light,
and the sea awaits her, beckons her in its waves.
A sailor passes by, time passes, leaves longing behind,
and the gate of the island opens for our first dance.”
This is how the romantic-melancholic folk song begins To kástro tis Astropaliás (Το κάστρο της Αστροπαλιάς), which tells of the island, which was still called Astropalaia in Venetian times. If you stay on the top of the Chora Castle Hill and look into the infinite distance of the sea, you are seized by an overwhelming feeling of longing and freedom.
Whether you come from the air or enter the port by ferry, the Kastro of Astypalea is visible from afar. Even when exploring, you will always spot it in the distance. The medieval castle is the icing on the cake of Chora and a witness to the centuries-old history of the island.
An acropolis is said to have been located here as early as ancient times. Presumably, a fortification was already established in Byzantine times and over the centuries it served the islanders as a retreat in case of pirate attacks. From 1413 onwards, the Venetian occupiers, the Querini family, considered rebuilding the fortress, and so it received its present appearance.
In 1537, the Ottomans under the general Barbarossa conquered the Dodecanese Islands, including Astypalea. The castle was badly damaged in the attacks, but continued to be used. From the 18th century onwards, a ring of houses formed around the Kastro, which unfortunately increasingly fell into disrepair.
In recent years, the fortress has been restored and the walls have been statically repaired. In the evening, the castle is even atmospherically illuminated and is the eye-catcher of Chora. You will achieve the Kastro from Plateia Chora by always following the signs (Kastro or Castle).
The main entrance is on the west side of the castle, directly below the church of Panagia tou Kastrou. You enter the castle interior through the vaulted corridor below the church, on the walls of which the history of the complex is described in detail. Then you explore the terrain, which unfortunately looks quite desolate.
At the heart of the complex is the church of Agios Georgios, whose sky-blue dome sparkles with the blue sea and sky. It is such an incredibly great photo motif, but unfortunately closed. From the wall windows you have interesting views of large parts of the island. Caution: Some areas are not secured!
- Opening hours Kastro of Astypalea: open all day and free admission
#3 Astypaleas Windmills
As if the Kastro of Chora wasn’t picturesque enough, the Windmills of Astypalea are yet another magnet. Unlike on other Greek islands, these historical cultural treasures have not fallen into disrepair, but have been extensively restored. Only the uppermost windmill has not yet been rebuilt.
The whitewashed windmills with the red roofs served the local supply until the middle of the 20th century, as they ground the grain from the surrounding area into flour. Its location is no coincidence: up here on the ridge of Chora the wind whistles quite mercilessly almost every day. Overall, Astypalea is one of the windiest islands in the South Aegean.
Today, grain is no longer ground in them. To this end, they now house various facilities, including a library, a local history museum and a tourist information office. All mills are photogenically lined up along the large village square Chora Platia and are a terrific photo motif both during the day and in the evening.
In the local taverns and cafés (tip: Notos) you can enjoy the view of the cylindrical sailing windmills during the day with a coffee or snack. The bars lure you well into the night with cocktails in an atmospheric atmosphere. This is definitely the liveliest place in Astypalea, during our visit in June it was still quite tranquil.
When you climb the long staircase behind the Buka Cocktail Bar you can climb a magnificent view of the windmills and Chora. By the way, we had our accommodation above the windmills – and what can we say: Waking up with this dream view was an absolute highlight! You can find more tips like this in our Dodecanese travel guide, which includes a chapter on Astypalea.
🗺️ 12 Islands with maps
🏖️ Beautiful beaches & swimming spots
🏛️ All top sights & attractions
🔍 Our best planning tips
🍽️ Accommodation, tavernas & cafés
This is where we stayed on Astypalea Chora
Anatoli Luxury Studios & Suites, Chora
We couldn’t have imagined a more beautiful place to stay on the island! Anatoli Luxury Studios is centrally located above the windmills with a fantastic view of Chora. The rooms are modern and the nights are wonderfully quiet.
Every day, kitchen fairy Nonna serves a fresh, varied breakfast featuring Greek classics and homemade touches. The warm and welcoming hotel manager Ioanna provided us with reliable support in everything we needed. We felt completely at home here and had a relaxing stay in Astypalea – we highly recommend it!
On Booking.com* you can find more information about our accommodation Anatoli Luxury Suites and check availability and prices:
Palaiomylos Astypalea
North of Chora there are two interesting viewpoints. The easier to reach viewpoint is located at the radio mast station above the village. A mostly asphalted road leads at the exit of the village at the Grande Mar Suites up to the station and the Prophet Elijah Church behind it. Great views – like from a drone!
If you continue up the gravel road instead of the church, you will come to the second viewpoint. The path to Palaiomylos (old windmill) is short with one kilometer, but the road is really very bad. Until a few years ago, there was still a trendy bar up here, which has since fallen into disrepair. The view of Chora and Pera Gialos is heavenly!
💡 Full moon on Astypalea: The moon often looks red in the Greek summer because many aerosols, including especially Saharan dust, hang in the atmosphere. We experienced the blood moon in Astypalea. The moon rose behind the Kastro early in the evening and bathed the island in a copper light. Pure magic!

#4 Harbour town Pera Gialos
Most holidaymakers who visit Astypalea set foot on land in Pera Gialos. Decades ago, it was only the loading port of the main town of Chora. Today it is a nice holiday resort, but it has grown unnaturally fast. Even today, new holiday accommodations are springing up like mushrooms.
Over the years, the two places have grown together. The scenery is nevertheless coherent: white Cycladic houses with blue windows and doors, narrow streets and many steps that lead up to Chora. Yes, you can walk to the upper village – we did it once and were floored 🙂
Pera Gialos consists of the jetty, a small marina where fishing boats and yachts swing, a rustic village beach and a small town centre that extends around the Archaeological Museum and the pretty church of Agios Nikolaos. On the left side of the beach, a charming promenade leads along the sea.
Pera Gialos is the islanders’ first port of call for supplies and administrative procedures (police station, post office, bank), as well as for holidaymakers, since trips to the neighbouring islands of Kounoupa and Koutsomitis (see #5) and the island’s bus connections converge here. With its cafés and taverns, the waterfront promenade invites you to linger.
At the port you can also rent an e-car or an e-scooter, which are very typical for Astypalea (see below for information). Interesting shops in the village include the honey shop Asty Honey of beekeeper Vlathis, who has the best thyme honey from Astypalea, as well as the pretty boutique Koursaros Store by Sophia and Filippos.
We didn’t find Pera Gialos Beach particularly inviting; it seemed too unkempt. Thank God there are plenty of bathing alternatives on the island. Amateur archaeologists should not miss the Archaeological Museum in Pera Gialos. The island’s history from over 3,000 years is presented in a compact space with interesting finds.
- Archaeological Museum of Astypalea: daily 8:30 a.m. – 3 p.m. (closed on Sundays), 3 € admission
#5 Kounoupa & Koutsomiti Boat Tour
Kounoupa and Koutsomiti are Astypalea’s paradise dream islands, and they are right on your doorstep. The tiny islands are not inhabited, but captivate with crystal clear and turquoise waters. Several times a week, excursions are offered by different tour operators, the crossing takes less than an hour.
The sheltered bays of the two islands are perfect for relaxing swimming lessons, extensive snorkeling or simply enjoying the peace and quiet on the pebble beaches. The tours run from June to September, but can be postponed from 6 Beaufort wind force.
Our experience with Avra Cruises
The boat tour with Avra Cruises to the offshore islands of Kounoupa and Koutsomitis was an absolute highlight of our stay on Astypalea. Punctually at 11 o’clock we left the port of Pera Gialos with the beautiful ship Avra (Greek for breeze). During the trip we were excellently looked after by the owners Manolis and Frosso.
The route first took us along the south coast of Astypalea. Our first swim stop were the impressive Kokkinos Vrachos (Greek for Red cliffs), which served as pirate hideouts in the Middle Ages. It was an indescribable feeling to swim in the narrow turquoise blue bay surrounded by rugged rocks.
We continued to the dreamlike Koutsomiti Beach on the island of the same name. There we had 45 minutes to snorkel and relax. The highlight was definitely Kounoupa with its unique double beach and incredibly blue water. The beach bar there offers solid food at high prices.
On the way back we passed the rocky islands of Agia Kiryaki, Glino and Xondro. With a bit of luck you can even observe dolphins in these waters – unfortunately we were not granted that. Nevertheless, we had a whole day full of adventures, and even our 4-year-old daughter had a lot of fun (thanks to water wings) – absolute recommendation!
- Information about the Kounoupa & Koutsomiti tour: Price from 35 € p.p., duration: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., drinks and snacks on board. Information on: Avra Cruises
#6 Livadi: Green Valley of Astypalea
In addition to Chora and Pera Gialos, there are two other settlements on the island: Livadi and Maltezana. Livadi (also called Livadia) is located just one kilometer south of Chora in the bay of the same name and is the only green spot on the island. Astypalea is really extremely barren, similar to Tinos or Halki. You have to come to terms with that first.
The green valley of Astypalea with its many citrus trees and lushly filled gardens winds its way from the sea to the barren mountains, at the foot of which stands a small dam that alleviates the island’s water scarcity somewhat. In summer, you can often find fresh home-grown fruit and vegetables in the taverns and cafes in Livadi.
In summer, life takes place on the pebble beach of Paralia Livadi, where not a single space remains empty. No wonder, because the view of Chora and the Kastro is immensely impressive. A good dozen cafés and taverns have settled along the beach. The gastrobar of Andonis is worth mentioning Trapezakia Exo, which is worth a visit at any time of the day!
Thanks to its sheltered location, Livadi Bay is also a great place to drop anchor, so every evening in summer, a mixed crowd of locals, island-hoppers and sailors meets in the restaurants. We only liked Livadi at second glance – but all the more so.
#7 Kaminakia Beach
From Livadi, you can explore some of the beaches in the west of Astypalea that are bursting with wild beauty. However, an off-road vehicle is indispensable for this, as the asphalt road leading out of Livadi turns into a dusty gravel road after a short time.
We can recommend the Kaminakia Beach at the western tip of Astypalea. But the 30-minute drive down a bumpy dirt road, past Mount Vardia, the highest peak on the island (482m), is a wobbly affair. Already in early summer everything was completely withered and only a few lonely white chapels set color accents in the barren landscape.
From the last hilltop, you can look out over the deep blue water and the bright beach lined with some tamarisk trees. Behind it is a tavern with a lush garden and palm grove – almost like an oasis in the desert. Once down by the sea, goats roam freely and there is absolute silence.
The Kaminakia family takes care of the needs of their guests – son Konstantinos runs the beach bar and mother Linda has been running the beach bar for years. Taverna Linta. Good home cooking (with their own vegetables and cheese) and typical island dishes are served. Kaminakia Beach is the perfect place for all holidaymakers who appreciate solitude and originality.
Due to the arduous journey, it is worth spending at least half a day here. In good weather conditions, even boat tours from Pera Gialos are offered, often in combination with the beaches of Agios Ioannis and Vatses Beach further south.
#8 Agios Ioannis Kastro
We imagined many an exploration tour on Astypalea to be easier in advance. An example is Agios Ioannis Kastro, the remains of a medieval castle or monastery in the northwest. From Kaminakia, a dirt road leads to the north. The numerous potholes pushed our Suzuki Vitara to its limits, so we had to turn back.
If you want to reach Agios Ioannis Kastro, you will have to drive a 12 km adventurous gravel road from Chora via Palaiomylos. What awaits tireless explorers? Above the raging sea, between steep rocks, stands a snow-white monastery church and below it lies a blooming garden fed by several mountain springs.
On your way there, you will again encounter some white houses of worship, most of which are even accessible. After all, there are said to be over 350 churches and chapels on Astypalea – one for every day of the year, so to speak! After the adventurous ride, you light a candle in the monastery of Agios Ioannis Makri for the way back.
On good days, the view extends from the plateau of the old monastery church to the Cyclades Islands of Anafi and Santorini. On the rugged rock on the right, there is said to have once been a Byzantine fortress (Kastro), of which nothing remains today. To the left, a hiking trail leads down, which leads along the privately owned garden.
Once you have passed the garden property, an inconspicuous path branches off to a cave on the right. A sign with the inscription Mylonou (Greek for “at the miller”) on a cedar tree indicates that a water mill once stood here. Unfortunately, the mountain spring itself is fenced in and can only be reached with effort.
During our visit, eager hikers went to the wild Agios Ioannis Kastro Beach. According to her, the rough way to the sea takes an hour. The path is partly covered by stick and stone and difficult to see. We preferred to enjoy the view from above and thus saved our strength.
Panormos Beach
From Agios Ioannis Kastro it is another 30 minutes drive to the Panormos Beach. From Chora, the total distance is about 17 kilometers and the drive over the miserable track takes about an hour. Even if a lonely beach lined with tamarisk trees sounds tempting, it’s not worth the effort. Especially since the northern orientation of the beach also washes up flotsam again and again.
Monastery Panagia Flevariotissa
The former monastery Panagia Flevariotissa is hidden in the mountains of Astypalea. Even from afar, the Marienkloster shines in the typical island style with a blue dome and ornaments as well as whitewashed walls. There is a small cave on the site, where, according to tradition, an icon of the Virgin Mary was once found.
We had hoped to be able to enter the area, but unfortunately none. A large, locked gate blocks access far in front of the actual monastery. The church consecration festival is celebrated every year on 2 February. Then the place comes alive with music and dancing – it’s the biggest winter party on Astypalea. We have to go there again in the cold season. 🙂
#9 Maltezana (Analipsi)
Without great expectations, we made our way to the coastal village of Maltezana and fell in love with it right away. The second largest settlement on Astypalea is uncomplicated and authentic. It offers everything for (easygoing) holidaymaker’s heart desires: traditional taverns, a great sandy beach and lots of tranquillity, plus Greek hospitality!
Maltezana (also called Analipsi) is idyllically located in a fertile coastal plain. During a walk through the small town centre around the Agios Dimitrios church, the locals greet you in a friendly way, two taverns and two kafenia invite you to linger here. We have tested all of them and found them to be good: fair prices and a family atmosphere!
At the small harbour there is a Greek idyll and you quickly get into conversation with the local fishermen. Behind Maltezana Beach some small hotels and apartment complexes are spread out, but everything doesn’t seem extremely crowded yet. Further east of Maltezana, behind a hilltop, is the second village beach called Paralia Schinonta.
Maltezana even offers two important archaeological sites: the Basilica of Agia Varvara, located 700 meters north of the town, and the Roman Baths of Tallaras, which are located near the port. The excavations testify that Maltezana and the region have been inhabited since ancient times and were an important centre in the Archaic period.
However, both historical sites are in poor condition and are only worth a detour for history freaks. In addition, the Basilica of Agia Varvara not accessible through a fence with a padlock – unfortunately! Some of the finds from these sites are exhibited in the Archaeological Museum in Pera Gialos.
#10 Solitude in Vathi
If you drive further east from Maltezana (Analipsi), the civilized world of Astypalaia ends for the time being. The route leads along lonely bays (including Vrisi and Vai), winds up small hills several times and views of the sea open up again and again.
100 years ago, the eastern part of Astypalea was still well inhabited. Many old farming villages such as Agios Ioannis Agrilidi below the mountain Kastellanos (great viewpoint!) have been abandoned in recent decades. A detour to the ghost village with the beautiful Agios Nikolaos church and the nearby old brick factory on the picturesque bay of Agrilidi is worthwhile.
Vathy, the most remote settlement of Astypalea, is not yet extinct. The few inhabitants are like a Gallic village against the decay of time. It is 20 kilometers from Chora to Vathy. The new asphalt road ends about three kilometres before the entrance to the village. This is followed by a bumpy gravel road typical of Astypalea.
Vathy is located in a natural harbour that is only open by a narrow strait. The water shimmers in an intense, light turquoise tone and in front of the bay the church of Agios Nikolaos like a sentinel over the bay.
Only a few families live in Vathy, some elderly people as well as shepherds and fishermen. The young people disappeared years ago. Here you will definitely embark on a journey through time! At the entrance to the village there are old house ruins and dilapidated chapels, while goats and sheep scurry across the path. This is what Greece looked like 50 years ago – and can still be experienced here.
At the small jetty there are some whitewashed houses. The Taverna Galini (Greek for serenity) is the only living place in Vathy. The name says it all: there is no classic menu, the opening hours are variable and the furnishings are rustic. You write your order yourself on a piece of paper – preferably in Greek to learn the language. 🙂
Long-time lovers of Greece will not be disappointed. Maria, the landlady, serves delicious homemade, but also fresh fish, if something has been caught. In addition, the over 70-year-old takes care of her elderly mother. When the food is ready, you are called to the kitchen to pick it up. Where else can you find something like this in Greece today?
The view from the tavern terrace to the fjord-like bay is immensely calming. Surprisingly, one is rarely alone, because there are others who are looking for the simple and original. Sailors appreciate the wind-protected natural harbour of Vathy anyway and usually anchor here to stop at Maria’s place.
Experienced hikers are looking for the Drakontospelio, the Dragon’s Cave of Astypalea. The way there leads north via the chapel of Panagia tou Thoma and then partly cross-country to the mystical grotto near the sea. About 1.5 hours should be planned each way. Please only start the tour if you are accompanied, as it is an extremely remote area!
#11 Beaches of Astypalea
Astypalea is not a classic bathing island. Although there are a few beaches spread around the island, only the few bays around Livadi and Maltezana are easily accessible. The beaches in the north are exposed to the strong surf and the open sea, high waves and a lot of flotsam are the order of the day.
Enclosed you will find an overview of the most beautiful beaches of Astypalea:
Agios Konstantinos Beach
This pretty grey sand pebble beach, about five kilometres from Livadi, is well worth a visit. Tamarisk trees provide shade and the view falls over to Chora. A highlight is the chapel of the same name above the beach, which makes a great photo opportunity. The resident Al Mare Beach Bar was still in preparation when we visited in mid-June.
Cape Diapori Beach
Not far from Maltezana is the striking headland of Cape Diapori, which is home to several small, picturesque bays of red sand and colourful pebbles in the southern section. The beaches face northeast, so there is a light breeze here.
The Mple Limanaki in the west, which is highly praised by many, was not worth more than a short photo for us: It is much too small and even in early summer there were already too many people on the narrow pebble beach.
Chrissi Ammos
A wild beach that is located about two kilometers north of the airport and can be reached via a dirt road. The raging sea meets a stretch of golden sandy beach.
Behind it, weathered dunes and maquis bushes stretch up the mountain. However, due to the northern orientation, garbage is always washed ashore. Unfortunately, there is no operator or person in charge of keeping this wonderful beach clean.
Kaminakia Beach
To the west is a sandy-pebble beach in an impressive landscape. Although it is quite difficult to access, it is relatively popular and there is a good operator on site. For more information, see #7.
Maltezana Beach
The approximately 400 m long village beach of Maltezana consists mainly of fine, gray sand. Except for the harbour area, the entrance is quite flat and therefore ideal for families with children.
To the west there is a tavern and two bars right on the beach. Our favorite is the bar Ear Maltezana Beach. Owner Panos (who speaks German) serves cool drinks, salads and small snacks. The loungers are included with a minimum consumption of 15 € – great!
Marmari Beach
A relatively natural beach with shady tamarisk trees on the main road, not far from the Astypalea campsite. If you don’t mind the passing cars, you’ll find a cozy spot here. The Mamounia All Day Bar provides bathers with drinks and small snacks in midsummer.
Steno Beach
One of the most popular beaches of Astypalea is located at the narrowest point (Greek “steno” for isthmus), where the two butterfly wings meet. A canteen in the western part and a beach club in the eastern part provide for the physical well-being.
The middle section of Steno Beach is natural and the shallow entry via a sandbank is ideal for children. Parasols are available from €12 per couple. Even in strong northerly winds, it is still pleasant at Steno Beach.
Tzanakia Beach
A bright pebble beach, about a kilometer outside Livadi. It offers a beautiful backdrop with dark boulders and light gravel. On the other side, Chora rises above the sparkling sea. There is no operator and the beach is only accessible via a trail. By the way: Tzanakia is the unofficial nudist beach of Astypalea.
More travel tips for your Astypalea holiday
To make your trip to the Butterfly Island an unforgettable experience, we have compiled some helpful links for you. Want to find out more about getting there, rental cars, weather, and accommodation on Astypalea? You’ll find everything you need to know in this article: Astypalea travel tips
→ You can find accommodation for Astypalea here: To Booking.com*
→ You can check out ferries for Astypalea here: To Ferryhopper*
→ Our local recommendation for rental cars for Astypalea: Delis Rent a Car, Aggelidis rental services, Analipsi Rent a Car
Astypalea and e-mobility
Astypalea wanted to be a pioneer in e-mobility. In 2021, the large pilot project started with VW as a partner and major investor: There was a bus fleet, rental vehicles and charging stations, as well as a lot of PR. The idea: Astypalea was to become a model region for sustainable island mobility – a lighthouse project for the whole of Greece.
Today, things look more sober: Although stations and e-vehicles are available, according to locals, it usually fails because of the app. The Asty-Go buses (ASTYMove) are almost exclusively used by visitors. The locals still swear by the old diesel bus, which we encountered at least twice a day.
The classic bus is flexible and sometimes waits, while AstyBus has to be booked in advance. With the exception of police, taxis, garbage collectors and a few e-scooters and e-rental cars, almost all private vehicles on Astypalea run on gasoline. The acquisition costs for e-cars are too high for the islanders and the two months of the tourist season bring too little income.
The electricity for the e-cars on Astypalea still does not come smart at all from the combined heat and power plant. Day after day, the diesel generator runs near Camping Astypalaia. Originally, a solar power plant was supposed to be built on Astypalea in 2023, but construction was postponed to 2024 and was still not completed in 2025.
The infrastructure is lagging behind anyway: apart from the one asphalt road from Livadi via Maltezana to the airport to Vathi, almost all roads are gravel roads. For e-cars, the journeys can become a tripping hazard because consumption is higher. In addition, some providers completely rule out off-road driving with the expensive electric vehicles.
In summer, the limits of the system become particularly apparent: with the rush of visitors, the limited Asty-Go buses are regularly bursting at the seams. Locals report queues, overcrowded vehicles and annoyed guests. The car rental prices on Astypalea reach the level of Mykonos in summertime.
Conclusion on Astypalea E-Mobility: The idea of a largely climate-neutral Greek island is great, but its implementation is still bumpy. An island simply has its own structure – especially in Greece. Eight hours away from the mainland cause some gaps in the supply network. There is still a long way to go before truly sustainable mobility.
🔍 Our conclusion on Astypalea: It took us so many attempts to visit the island, which is quite difficult to reach, and we are grateful that it finally worked out – what a magical island! Astypalea is an island for dreamers and all those who are looking for the original Greece. It is perfect for people who prefer peace and quiet and do not want to be constantly surrounded by service and entertainment. The heart of the city is the extremely picturesque main town of Chora, which every visitor falls in love with right away. A cosmopolitan flair blows here in midsummer, which nevertheless manages without mass tourism. Behind the three villages of Chora, Livadi and Maltezana there is not much except a few lonely farms and white chapels in the barren landscape. Here Greece shows its most original side, perhaps as it was 50 years ago: simple, honest and wild. In addition, there are endless, unobstructed views of the deep blue sea that act like natural aspirin. But not all that glitters is gold: the e-mobility concept is lagging behind, the supply is quite modest due to the island’s lack of remoteness, and the northern beaches have become veritable garbage dumps of the rough sea due to a lack of interest. Hopefully, solutions will be found here. All those who have enjoyed the view from the Kastro of Chora over the wild Aegean Sea, have been guests in the remote fishing village of Vathy or have shared the beach with goats in Kaminakia and appreciate these experiences as something special, will love this barren island and will not forget it in a hurry. The warm astypaliots with their extraordinary hospitality contributed significantly to the fact that we felt comfortable right away. We enjoyed our time on this unadulterated and so far uncommercialized island with its rough edges and it will definitely not be our last visit!
➝ We tell you more useful travel tips to the Dodecanese Islands here: Dodecanese Islands Blog
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