In the middle of the deep blue Aegean Sea, somewhere between Rhodes and Kos, lies an island that few have heard of. To avoid being overlooked among the island pearls of Nisyros and Symi, the municipality of Tilos came up with a sustainable idea.
“The Zero Waste Island is not only intended to attract eco-tourists, but also to make Tilos known nationally and internationally as a showcase project.”
What we experienced on Tilos, the so-called Zero Waste Island with only 500 inhabitants, and whether the Dodecanese island is really as sustainable as the local marketing campaigns claim, we will tell you in our 7 highlights of Tilos:
#1 Livadia
The ferry glides through turquoise blue water as we enter the Port of Livadia shrink. In front of us, white cubes of houses stretch up the rugged slopes.
From a distance, the coastal town in the southeast of the island looks surprisingly charming, and even a walk through Livadia is tranquil in the pre-season. Many of the buildings have only been built in recent years, and Tilos also wants to benefit from the international tourism of its large neighbours Kos and Rhodes.
From the pier we reach the central Platia with the Tilos police building in Art Deco style, a remnant of the Italian occupation. Just behind it is a modern playground, ATMs, cafes and shops.
You can find a matching island souvenir as well as airy clothing for children and adults in the boutique »To Sokaki« of the friendly owner Maria, right on the central square below the Alpha Bank. In the café above Paradosiako Kafenio Omonia you can mingle with the locals over a cool drink.
A traditional village structure is no longer recognizable, but the long waterfront of Livadia lusts for a stroll. Behind the large church of Agios Nikolaos begins the traffic-calmed promenade, which runs along the sea for several kilometers.
Large and small round stones in all colours form the Livadia Beach, which drops into crystal clear water. Tamarisk trees provide a little shade, here and there loungers were already set up in May.
In the pre-season, only a few of the dozen or so existing restaurants are open, including the family-run tavern Armenon and the cozy Café Pezodromos. Both include the fantastic sea view!
After 20 minutes of pure walking we reach the end of the waterfront behind the chapel of Agios Georgios. Here a concrete track leads to the fishing port of Agios Stefanos and a few scattered apartment complexes. Where the asphalt road ends, one of the most beautiful hiking trails on Tilos begins (see point #2).
💡 Viewpoint Livadia: You can enjoy the most beautiful view of the bay of Livadia from the chapel of St. Anna above the village. The Byzantine church was open when we visited and is worth a visit for its 11th-century frescoes.
#2 Ancient Gera
One of the most spectacular hikes in the Dodecanese takes us all the way south of Tilos to the abandoned settlement of Gera. The starting point is above the port of Agios Stefanos. At the height of the Tilos Kindergarten and Stefanakis Villas, you can park your car along the road.
A gravel road leads above the coast to the white chapel of Agios Ioannis. From here begins the red marked Monopati, which meanders picturesquely along an old stone path. The natural scenery is breathtaking, especially in spring due to the many wildflowers.
Below the cliffs are turquoise blue bays. The beaches of Agios Zacharias and Despoti Nero shortly before Gera invite you to a refreshment. After about 3.5 km you will reach the abandoned settlement, which towers high above the sea on a mountain spur.
It is not known exactly from which time the house ruins originate. Since neither churches nor cemeteries have been found, it is assumed that it must have been a pure farming settlement, which was mainly of agricultural importance.
With the ancient Gera the settlement of Mikro Chorio (see point #3) in the centre of the island is also associated with it. The former inhabitants probably used site of Gera as a summer residence or agricultural centre.
After 7 km and about 2 hours of pure walking time, we reach the starting point again. The route with a slight incline is easy to walk on with sturdy shoes. Since the trail is not shaded for long stretches, we recommend that you avoid lunchtime.
#3 Micro Chorio
In the center of Tilos, between the towns of Livadia and Megalo Chorio, lies the ghost village of the island. Micro Chorio (Greek: “small village”) had almost 750 inhabitants before the war, but over the years they moved to the port city of Livadia or emigrated to distant countries.
According to stories, the residents even took their windows and doors as well as the roof tiles with them to the coastal town. Of the former 220 houses, most are now only ruins and actually without roofs. In the center of the village sits the restored main church, which was unfortunately closed during our visit.
Above the amphitheatrically laid out village are the remains of a fortress (15th century) with watchtower from the time of the Order of St. John. From up here you have a good overview of the place and see houses here and there that have already been rebuilt.
In the summer months, the rustic Mikro Chorio Bar, which doesn’t open until midnight. Then the old ruins of houses are partly illuminated with spotlights. On a starry night, there is an almost magical atmosphere at this Lost Place.
Mikro Chorio can be reached via a paved access road from the main road, which leads to a turning area where you can park until just before the village. For hikers, the 8 km long scenic trail is recommended. It is a circular route from Livadia to the beach of Lethra to Mikro Chorio and back.
#4 The elephant of Tilos
In 1971, the Greek scientist Symeonidis made a sensational discovery in the Charkadio Cave on Tilos. Excavations have found numerous bones and teeth from prehistoric dwarf elephants discovered.
They probably lived on the island for more than 50,000 years and are now considered the youngest elephant species in Europe. In the following years, over 15,000 bones of 45 pygmy elephants, which were about 1.80 m tall, were found.
Charkadio Cave (Elephant Cave)
The fossil site is located above the new elephant museum. During our visit, the large main gate to the Elephant Cave was open.
After a few meters you will reach an open-air theater, which is occasionally used for performances. Steps take you to the cave entrance, which is closed by a grille.
However, if you are narrow, you can enter through a large grid gap at your own risk and see the inside of the Charkadio Cave which is not very spectacular. On display are a cart, excavation tools and installation material.
A planned visit for the public has probably not yet taken place. The cave is of great historical importance. Not only fossil traces of pygmy elephants and deer have been found here, but also tools and hunting utensils as well as ceramics from the Neolithic Age.
Above the excavation site are the remains of the Kastro Messaria. The Knights of St. John of Rhodes built the fortified castle in 1366 as the first of a total of seven fortresses on Tilos. A hiking trail there was no longer recognizable for us. You can probably climb cross-country in 10 minutes.
Elephant Museum of Tilos (Elephant Museum)
If you visit the island from June to September, you can take a look at the small Elephant Museum in which everything revolves around the pachyderms. On display are bones and tusks of various pygmy elephants, but also of other animals and even humans. There is also some information about the life of the elephants, the history and possible extinction scenarios.
In the high season, there is an expert guide on site who, if you are interested, can tell you more about the Elephants of Tilos narrated. In the past, the museum was temporarily closed. If you want to be on the safe side, it’s best to check the opening hours at the town hall of Megalo Chorio beforehand.
Open from 1 June to mid-October: Tue.-Sun. 9 a.m.-8 p.m., 2 € (as of May 2023)
#5 Megalo Chorio and Kastro
Hidden from the sea is the actual capital of the island in the north. The white houses of Megalo Chorio (Greek for “large village”) stick terraced below a mighty castle ruin.
In the low season, the village of 100 inhabitants seems almost deserted, although the town hall of the administrative seat of Tilos. The town is severely affected by the rural exodus, many inhabitants have migrated to Rhodes, Athens or even abroad in recent decades.
Only one supermarket and two taverns (Our recommendation: Palio Meraki Café Ouzeri) are available for care. A walk through Megalo Chorio with its historic buildings is almost like a journey through time.
In recent years, some old houses have been restored and now serve as holiday homes. The whitewashed alleys, blue shutters and doors, as well as dozing cats offer typical Greek photo opportunities. The doors of the two large churches with their magnificent floor mosaics made of sea pebbles are usually closed.
Ascent to the castle ruins
With clear visibility and no wind, the ascent to the Kastro of Megalo Chorio. The castle ruins impressively tower over the village. It probably dates back to Byzantine times and was built on the foundations of a Hellenistic acropolis from the 4th century BC.
Fragments of ancient temples that served as building material can still be seen today among the rubble. The entire fortress area was probably inhabited until 1827, after which the inhabitants moved to today’s Megalo Chorio.
The steep ascent to the castle ruins begins northeast of Megalo Chorio. Red dots or arrows mark the hiking trail. But you can also orientate yourself by the old lamps on the ground, which illuminate the path in the evening, but are obviously not switched on outside the high season.
After about 30 minutes (about 1 km) you will reach the summit and enter the complex through a stone gate. The view is breathtaking – in the south you look at the fertile valley of Eristos, in the north below you lies the coastal town of Agios Antonios and opposite the volcanic island Nisyros.
In the centre of the triangular complex is still the medieval St. Mary’s Church, where frescoes from the Byzantine period have been preserved, but the church itself is badly damaged.
At the entrance you can clearly see the large stones of an ancient Acropolis of Tilos. Some of the hewn ashlars bear inscriptions that testify to the place as a temple in honor of Zeus and Athena.
#6 Tilo’s lonely north
“The most beautiful thing about the hamlet of Agios Antonios is the view of the neighboring island of Nisyros.” At least that was the first spontaneous thought that came to our minds during our visit to the unspectacular fishing village.
Agios Antonios is not particularly spruced up, but in the past it had historical significance, as evidenced by the remains of an ancient settlement. In fact, until a decade ago, even excursion boats from Kos sailed here.
During our visit in May, the hamlet was deserted. A sailboat lay lonely in the harbor pier, the shore road seemed a bit desolate. The only highlight was a visit to the Tavern Akrogiali on the western outskirts of the village. The food was wonderful and the host family extremely friendly.
Panteleimon Monastery
If you turn back towards Livadia in Agios Antonios, you will miss one of the absolute highlights of Tilos. Somewhat hidden in the far northwest of the island lies the beautiful Monastery of Agios Panteleimonas. Even the journey to the monastery through a wild mountain landscape is an experience.
From a bird’s eye view, it looks like a massive fortress, with the former fortified tower at the entrance to the monastery grounds rising strikingly. The monastery was probably built in the 14th century to protect it from pirates.
The scenery could not be more idyllic. In the middle of a mixed forest of plane trees, cypresses and walnut trees, a mountain spring splashes into a well on the forecourt of the monastery. The floor is elaborately designed with sea pebbles. Tables and benches invite you to linger.
Inside the complex is the main church with a wooden iconostasis from the 19th century. The monastery has not been inhabited for decades. However, every year from 25 to 27 July, life returns to the complex when the big church consecration festival occurs in honour of Saint Panteleimon.
Unfortunately, the monastery courtyard was closed during our visit. From June to October, however, the monastery gate will be open to visitors from morning to afternoon. The Pope of Tilos then selflessly takes care of the complex. For hiking enthusiasts, there is a picturesque path from the monastery to the Eristos Beach (5.7 km).
#7 Tilos as Zero Waste Island
1st zero waste island – The first waste-free island in Greece and the world. Tilos pursues ambitious goals in terms of environmental management. Greece experts know that there is a lot of catching up to do, especially when it comes to recycling on the Greek islands.
The waste management program “Just Go Zero” was developed by the company network Polygreen from Piraeus. The waste separation programme distinguishes between three main categories, according to which the local population as well as companies and holidaymakers should separate their waste. This includes recyclable materials such as glass, plastic and cardboard, non-recyclable waste and organic waste (organic waste).
Since there are no longer any garbage cans in the communities, all household waste is collected several times a week by employees of the Polygreen company. Various collection containers are available for this purpose, in which the waste can be disposed of. At tourist points there are still small trash cans in which the garbage is also separated.
The former landfill was closed years ago. In its place, a recycling centre has been set up to sort and recycle the waste and compost the organic waste. The residual waste is processed for recycling or incineration and transported away from the island.
Zero Waste Tilos: Our personal impression
Against this background, one could quickly get the idea that the island is therefore very clean. Unfortunately, during our stay on Tilos, we also discovered garbage in nature and on beaches. Along the streets and in the villages, on the other hand, it looked quite tidy.
We think the zero waste approach is good in principle, but in our opinion too little attention is paid to waste generation. At the bakery you get your bread in a plastic bag, Freddo espresso and orange juice were available in the café with plastic straws including foil on them. There are no glass bottles to buy on the island, only PET.
The image of Zero Waste may look good to the outside world, after all, a large part of the garbage is transported away from the island or recycled. If the project can also reduce the amount of waste on site on the island, then Zero Waste has reached another milestone for us personally.
→ More information about the environmental project on Tilos can be found here: JustGoZero
More Tilos Tips
Beautiful beaches on Tilos
Skafi Beach
Natural pebble beach with sandy sections in the extreme northeast of the island. Accessible only on foot (about 3 km / 45 min from Megalo Chorio) or by off-road vehicle via a dirt road.
There are two beaches on site, separated by a rock, but offering little shade. A few years ago, tamarisk trees were planted. Depending on the season, there is unfortunately a lot of flotsam and garbage at Skafi Beach. Unfortunately, the early Christian church of Agios Nikolaos collapsed.
Paralia Plaka
Bathing bay in the north of the island directly below the wind turbine. Dark sandy-pebble beach that drops very quickly deep into the sea.
Directly behind Plaka Beach is a shady eucalyptus forest, where some wild campers and nudists cavort in summer. Animals also feel at home in Plaka, during our visit we were able to observe peacocks, goats and rabbits.
💡 Cost trap on Tilos: Be careful with the mobile network in this area, it quickly automatically dials into the Turkish network (non-EU). For low data volume, a high fee is immediately due. It is best to manually select a Greek net (e.g. Cosmote, Vodafone.GR or Wind) when you arrive on Tilos.
Livadia Beach
Long pebble beach of the harbour town of Livadia with large and small round stones in different colours. Very clean and clear water, mostly sheltered from the wind. Partly equipped with sunbeds and umbrellas. Directly behind it runs the beach promenade with several cafes and restaurants.
Paralia Eristos
Probably the largest stretch of beach on the island in the west of Tilos. Dark pebble beach with sandy sections. The shore area drops down quite quickly. Largely natural and lined with tamarisk trees. At Eristos Beach is the (unofficial) Campsite of Tilos.
In midsummer, numerous wild campers arrive, then over 250 tents are set up on Eristos Beach. A canteen caters for bathers and campers in summer. Simple sanitary facilities and a large container for waste separation are also available.
Tilos Restaurants & Cafés: Our Recommendations
When we visited in early May, not all taverns on the island were open yet, so the choice of good restaurants and cafes was a bit limited. Where we ate well on Tilos, we tell you below:
Pezodromos Café, Livadia
Cozy café on the beach promenade of Livadia with a beautiful sea view. Seating on the terrace and directly on the beach. Friendly service and fair prices. In addition to good coffee specialties, there are sweet and savory snacks such as cakes, toast and Greek salad.
Armenon Restaurant, Livadia
Also located on the beach promenade of Livadia, family-run tavern of owner Nikos with good home cooking. Tasteful furnishings with wind-protected seats and fair value for money.
Akrogiali, Ag. Antonios
Giorgos and his family run their tavern in the hamlet of Agios Antonios right by the sea with a lot of heart and soul. We found the roka salad, the tilos shrimps and the dolmadakia particularly delicious. The tasty Greek dishes are available at fair prices. In the evening, hearty meat dishes from the grill are also offered.
Palio Meraki, Megalo Chorio
Rustic tavern in the center of Megalo Chorio. Wirt Telis offers a small selection of typical Greek meze dishes. There was no classic menu on our visit, but the prices were ok.
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Tilos Accommodations
The highest density of accommodation can be found in the harbour town of Livadia. Along the waterfront, as well as on the outskirts of the village, smaller hotels (1 to 3 stars), studios and apartment complexes have settled. On Booking.com* you get an overview and can check prices: Tilos Hotels and Apartments*
Ilidi Rock, Livadia
Aparthotel on the outskirts of Livadia, directly above the sea. Fantastic view of the bay, comfortable studios and apartments, as well as good breakfast.
Hotel Irini, Livadia
Compact 2-star hotel in a quiet location (200 m from the sea) with friendly staff and a beautiful pool area.
Here we spent the night on Tilos
Iviskos House, Megan Chorio
We spent five nights in the main town of Megalo Chorio and couldn’t have imagined a better starting point for exploring Tilos. At night it was heavenly quiet in the village and Livadia is just under 10 minutes away by car.
The compact studio of the lovely Maria is located above the village, is clean and tastefully furnished and offers a well-equipped kitchen and even washing machine.
From the terrace you can enjoy a magnificent view over the fertile valley of Eristos. The location is pleasantly quiet and yet supermarket, playground and village tavern are within walking distance. You can book this great Tilos apartment on Booking.com*:
Getting around Tilos
With a north-south extension of only 16 km, Tilos is a compact island that you can explore almost completely in a few days. You are most flexible with your own car or scooter. There are a handful of car rental companies at the port of Livadia.
An island bus connects the towns of Livadia, Megalo Chorio, Eristos and Agios Antonios several times a day. The one-way ticket costs about 1.50 €. Bus tours to Agios Panteleimon Monastery are offered on weekends.
→ information about the bus timetables can be found here: Tilos Bus Timetable
Getting to Tilos
Since Tilos does not have an airport, the island can only be reached by ferry. The best starting points are the neighboring islands Kos and Rhodes with their international airports. You can book cheap flights and check prices on the portal of Skyscanner*:
➲ To search for flights with Skyscanner*
From Kos you need about 2.5 to 3 hours by car ferry, from Rhodes 3 to 4 hours, with the fast catamarans of Dodekanisos Seaways only 1.5 to 2 hours.
→ This article gives you all the necessary information for your journey by ferry to Tilos: Ferries in Greece
You can easily research and book suitable ferry connections for Tilos via the search portal Ferryhopper*:
➲ To the ferry search with Ferryhopper*
Connections from Kos to Tilos:
- Blue Star Ferries – 2x per week (in 2023 Mon. and Fri.)
- SAOS Ferries – 2x per week (in 2023 Tue. and Fri.)
- Dodekanisos Seaways – 2x per week (in 2023 Tues. and Wed.)
Ways to get from Rhodes to Tilos:
- Blue Star Ferries – 2x per week (in 2023 Mon. and Fri.)
- SAOS Ferries – 2x per week (in 2023 Mon and Thu)
- Dodekanisos Seaways – 2x per week (in 2023 Tues. and Wed.)
- Passenger ship Fedon (from Halki) – 2x per week
→ All ferry connections to and from Tilos can be found at the local Tilos Travel Agency: Tilos Travel
More articles and numerous travel tips to the islands of the Dodecanese can be found at: Dodecanese at a glance
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