It was only by chance that we came across Syros Island. We had never heard of this Cycladic island before. Before our first trip to Syros, we had no idea how much the island would captivate us — so much so that we have now visited several times.
“With its two eye-catching towns of Ermoupoli and Ano Syros, the island is architecturally unique. Syros has something mysterious about it and is very different from other islands. No one is a stranger here, and everyone is welcome.”
We even spent two winters on Syros. “Wintering on a Greek island — surely there’s nothing going on there?” The myth persists that Greek islands are dead in winter. This is indeed the case on many of them, but not on Syros, at least not in the city of Ermoupoli.
Syros, with its capital Ermoupoli, is the administrative centre of the Cyclades and is lively in all seasons. Tourism has not played a major role for the island so far. In midsummer, you will mainly encounter mainland Greeks and only a small international crowd.
We were immediately warmly welcomed by the locals and felt at home from the very first moment. It is the lightness and joy of the people here that warms your heart and makes you feel truly welcome.
Take a few days to explore this Cycladic island. We have spent two winters here and are sharing our favourite Syros highlights along the way.
- #1 Ermoupoli: Capital of Syros
- #2 The enchanting Ano Syros
- #3 Vari and the beaches in the south
- #4 Posidonia and Agathopes Beach
- #5 Finikas and Kokkina Bay
- #6 Galissas: The West of Syros
- #7 The beautiful fishing village of Kini
- #8 Ano Meria: The Lonely Highlands
- #9 Hiking on Syros Island
- #10 Culinary highlights on Syros
- More Syros Travel Tips & Info
#1 Ermoupoli: Capital of Syros
When the ferry from Piraeus enters the port of Ermoupoli (also known as Hermoupolis), you will immediately be greeted by the two prominent city hills with their churches.
The majestic capital of Syros looks enchanting from afar and stands in complete contrast to the barren mountain landscape. Its tightly packed houses shine in soft pastel shades and the marble streets look elegant, as if from another era.
There is a lot of hustle and bustle along the harbour promenade. Countless cafés and restaurants invite you to linger, and cats doze in the afternoon sun. Yet despite being the city of Hermes, god of trade and its namesake, Ermoupoli with its 14,000 inhabitants has managed to retain its village character.
In the city centre, Miaouli Square is home to the magnificent town hall, built by the German Ernst Ziller. The neoclassical building is unique among the Greek islands and gives Ermoupoli a cosmopolitan feel.
Stroll through the Vaporia district
When the sun finds its way through the marble alleys, everything shines in a bright light. You almost feel like a nobleman as you stroll through. The special architecture gives the city a noble charm.
Syros is particularly beautiful in the prestigious Vaporia district. Once the seat of wealthy merchants and businessmen in the 19th century, chic villas and mansions still bear witness to this era.
Many of the magnificent buildings have now been extensively restored. Their rooftop terraces offer stunning views of the Aegean Sea. Right next door is another Ermoupoli attraction. The Apollon Theatre of Syros was modelled on the Milanese scale and still hosts regular performances today.
Cultural Capital of the Cyclades
Syros is the secret cultural jewel of the Aegean Sea! The island surprises with an exceptionally diverse cultural programme that magically attracts international visitors and culture enthusiasts.
The historic Apollon Theater serves as the centrepiece for an impressive array of events, from world-class festivals such as the renowned Rebetiko Festival and international dance festivals to opera galas.
The mix of classical music, traditional Greek dances, modern theatre and jazz makes Syros a unique cultural experience.
Ermoupoli, the elegant capital with its neoclassical charm, offers the perfect backdrop for this cultural diversity, which goes far beyond what you would expect from a small Cycladic island.
In summer, it’s worth taking a detour to the city beach of Vaporia. This is where you’ll find the Ciel Beach Bar, with a great view of Ermoupoli and the magnificent church of Agios Nikolaos. You can cool off in the water along the rugged coast via boarding ladders.
The importance of the church in Syros
Speaking of churches, Syros is the region in Greece with the largest Catholic community. On the hill of the old town of Ano Syros sits the Catholic church of Agios Georgios. On the other city hill, the Orthodox community is represented by the magnificent church of Anastasis ti Christi.
The Catholic Venetians settled on Syros during the first Crusades. Since then, both religions have lived peacefully together for centuries. One of the special highlights of Syros is Easter, particularly when the Catholic and Orthodox dates fall in the same period. For more information, check out our article on Easter in Greece.
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#2 The enchanting Ano Syros
Like a small Cycladic village, the colorful houses of the medieval town of Ano Syros are lined up along the hill of Agios Georgios. From Ermoupoli, many steps lead up to another world. The labyrinth of picturesque alleys looks as though it comes from a time long past. The unique scenery makes it one of the most beautiful highlights on Syros.
Even today, donkeys bring building materials to Ano Syros, as the narrow streets can only be explored on foot. This is where people first settled on Syros during the Middle Ages. The hill offered good protection against pirate attacks.
Most of the houses in the medieval capital are regular residential buildings, so it remains quiet here even today. There is a photo opportunity on every corner. Colorful bougainvillea stretch along the rooftops and the cats of Ano Syros doze in the midday sun.
The village of Ano Syros is a refuge for those seeking peace and quiet outside of high season. Free from souvenir shops and tourist traps, you can still find a piece of original Greece and peaceful seclusion up here on the hill.
In the meantime, you can take a walk through the alley labyrinth of Ano Syros and discover some taverns and bars. Small boutiques and craft shops offer lovely goods and souvenirs from Syros without resorting to kitsch.
💡 Season in Ano Syros: Due to the low number of tourists on Syros, the season in this medieval village is quite short. Cafés and restaurants only open gradually in May or June and close as early as September. Usually, the end of the Greek summer holidays also marks the end of the season in Ano Syros. By October, all facilities in the village have closed and the village falls back into a deep sleep.
Bar Mile of Ano Syros
Behind the Vamvakaris Museum begins the bar and pub mile of Ano Syros. In midsummer, it is usually impossible to squeeze through here, as all the outdoor seats are taken and crowds of party-goers make their way along the main street. Outside of the Greek holiday season, however, you can enjoy lovely evenings here with a cool drink.
Trendy bars like the Theosis Bar place small tables directly in the alleys, where you can enjoy your cocktail on cushioned seats and philosophize about life. There’s a magical atmosphere in the air. Other bars like Tsagkaradiko offer a breathtaking view of Ermoupoli lit up in the evening from their roof terraces.
In the side streets, you will find traditional taverns with delicious Greek mezedes (tip: Apanochoritissa) as well as modern fusion cuisine that will make foodies’ hearts beat faster (e.g. Hygge Ano Syros).
Markos Vamvakaris and the Rembetiko
At the entrance of the main alley is the Museum of Markos Vamvakaris. The famous bouzouki player and guru of rembetiko was born in Ano Syros. Admission to the museum costs around two euros. A film about the life and work of the rembetiko artist is shown in Greek with English subtitles.
For fans of Greek music, the museum is definitely worth a visit. Markos’ probably most famous song, “Frangosyriani”, is well known to lovers of Greece. The melody is a real earworm. In the song, Vamvakaris sings about a childhood love for a Catholic girl from Syros.
At the top of the hill of Ano Syros sits the Catholic church of Agios Georgios. From here you have a magnificent view of Ermoupoli and the Orthodox church on the opposite hill. Behind the hill is a restored windmill, from where you can also enjoy a great panoramic view of the city.
#3 Vari and the beaches in the south
We leave the capital and drive south. Between rugged cliffs, one small beach bay follows another. The closer you get to Ermoupoli, the more holidaymakers you’ll find here during the summer months. The beaches of Vari and Megas Gialos offer a lovely spot to relax.
Both bays have a beautiful sandy beach and clear water. Parasols and sunbeds can be rented on site. Tamarisks also provide welcome shade. Taverns supply bathers with snacks and cool drinks.
#4 Posidonia and Agathopes Beach
In the southwest of the island you will find Posidonia, also known as “Della Grazia”. In the 19th century, this beautiful coastal town was a popular retreat for wealthy merchants from Ermoupoli. They built their magnificent mansions and gardens here. The leafy village is worth a short stopover for its pretty church of Agios Ioannis and its kafenias and taverns.
One of the most beautiful beaches on the island is Agathopes, located behind the military station of Posidonia. The picturesque bay has a great sandy beach and crystal-clear water. Parasols and sunbeds are available for rent, and taverns take care of your physical well-being. Especially in July, it can get very crowded here, with plenty of partying well into the night.
#5 Finikas and Kokkina Bay
Continuing along the west coast, you will pass the bay of Finikas. At the second largest port on the island, fishing boats line the pier and sailors moor here in summer. The tranquil coastal town gets quite touristy during the high season, and the small beach strip becomes very busy.
If you prefer a quieter spot, just a few kilometers outside of Finikas there is the Kokkini Bay. The narrow bay is known for its red rocks. The beach consists largely of gravel and stones.
In the area around Finikas there are many holiday homes, hotels and restaurants. The town is located about 12 kilometers from Ermoupoli and can be reached by rental car or by bus.
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#6 Galissas: The West of Syros
The beach of Galissas in the southwest of Syros is the largest on the island and we liked it right away. The dreamlike bay shimmers in the most beautiful shades of turquoise. The sandy beach slopes very gently into the sea, so you can walk several meters into it. For this reason, Galissas Beach is especially popular with families with children.
There are sunbeds and umbrellas for rent on site. Beach bars provide bathers with cool drinks and snacks. The coastal town is busy in the summer months and offers numerous accommodations, restaurants, shops and car rental companies. From Galissas there is also a bus to Ermoupoli, eight kilometers away.
On the left side of the bay, high up on the hill, sits the small chapel of Agia Pakou. From here you have a magnificent view of Galissas and the Aegean Sea. Behind the hill on the other side is Ancient Galissas.
The ancient settlement offered protection from pirates due to its hidden location. At the foot of the ruins you will find the small Bay of Armeos. It sparkles in the most beautiful shades of blue and is popular with nudists and same-sex couples.
From Galissas, a beautiful hiking trail leads to the chapel of Agios Stefanos. Alternatively, there are also boat tours from the village of Kini to this attraction. The white church is nestled in a cave right by the sea. Especially at sunset, it offers a breathtaking backdrop with the bell tower.
#7 The beautiful fishing village of Kini
If you drive from Ermoupoli over the mountains to the west side of the island, you’ll reach the popular holiday resort of Kini. The cute fishing village is nestled in a pretty bay. In the harbour, piers, quays and excursion boats can be found. Right on the beach are traditional Greek taverns serving freshly caught fish.
Some palm trees have been planted on the narrow stretch of beach, and reed umbrellas provide the necessary shade. You can reach the village by bus or by rental car. In the evening, when the sun sinks between the neighbouring islands of Kea and Kythnos into the Aegean Sea, Kini is the perfect place to enjoy the play of colours.
If you are travelling with a rental car, you also have the option of visiting the two secluded beaches of Lotos, south of Kini, and Delfini, north of the village. In season, excursion boats depart regularly from the port of Kini to the lonely beaches in the north of Syros and to the small cave chapel of Agios Stefanos near Galissas.
The likeable Nikos from Kini offers with his boat Perla 1 tours to the chapel and the beaches along the northwest coast. More information can be found at syrosadventures.gr
On the way back to Ermoupoli, it is worth taking a detour to the mountain village of Alithini. From here you have a fantastic view of the capital and Ano Syros. In the small village there are two taverns where you can enjoy delicious Greek food on the panoramic terraces. It may be worth making a reservation in advance, as the spots are very popular with locals and tourists alike.
#8 Ano Meria: The Lonely Highlands
The north of Syros is still largely untouched and ideal for extensive hikes. The wild nature of Ano Meria is largely barren in the summer months, with only a few olive trees and vines.
In spring, on the other hand, it is green and blooming magnificently. If you roam the expanses of the highlands, the scent of thyme fills the air. The finest island herbs grow everywhere and you can enjoy the peace and quiet of this deserted spot.
The little hamlet of San Michalis seems almost deserted. But among the numerous ruins, there are still two quaint taverns that cater to explorers of northern Syros. The taverns are open on weekends during the summer months. From up here, the sunset is magnificent and makes for a perfect end to a long hike. A real Syros highlight that you should not miss.
From San Michalis, the road leads into the last Kampos village. Only a few houses are scattered across the landscape. It is mainly farmers who still live here. Among other things, they produce the tasty island cheese San Michalis. At some point the asphalt road ends and a wooden sign points the way to the northern tip. There you will find the pristine beaches at the very end of the island of Syros.
#9 Hiking on Syros Island
Hike to the beaches in the north
From Kampos, the northernmost village of the island, we start our hike into the remote mountain landscape of Syros. A goat trail leads from the end of the asphalt road over a ridge. At a gap in the stone wall, the path splits in two. One leads to the northernmost tip of Syros. The other winds downhill to the secluded beaches of Lia, Marmari, Americanou and Grammata.
The hike leads past an ancient marble quarry and some ruined houses. A magnificent panorama of the Aegean Sea and the neighbouring islands accompanies you along the way. After a while, evergreen conifers appear in the distance, a striking contrast to the otherwise barren landscape.
In the valley of Americanou Beach, American John Pierson and his son have planted around 18,000 trees since 1965, of which 5,000 remain. At the foot of the pine forest there is a small hut. From here, a path leads through the forest down to an idyllic beach.
In summer, you will almost only encounter Greeks and free spirits here. There is no taverna, no sanitary facilities and no rubbish bins. Everyone should clean up after themselves and take their rubbish with them. Due to the risk of forest fires, open fires are strictly forbidden here.
Hike to the ancient site of Grammata
From Americanou Beach, an inconspicuous trail leads directly along the coast to the bay of Grammata (= letters). Even from a distance you can see the bright marble slabs gleaming along the shore. People have been leaving their mark here since Roman and Byzantine times, immortalised in stone. It was mainly pilgrims and sailors who sought refuge in the bay and engraved their messages into the rock.
Unfortunately, many of the very old inscriptions have disappeared over the years. Today you’ll find almost only “modern immortalizations”. The Bay of Grammata sparkles in the most beautiful shades of turquoise and is wonderful for a refreshing swim.
From here we make our way back, either along the mountainside or along the coast. The hiking time is two hours to the inscriptions of Grammata and back.
#10 Culinary highlights on Syros
In the 19th century, Ermoupoli grew into an important commercial center in Greece. Even today, the large Neorion shipyard in the capital’s harbor bears witness to this era. Syros took in many Greek refugees during the War of Independence, including many businessmen.
The wealthy merchants brought prosperity to the island and had a significant influence on its unique architecture. In addition, the refugees from Asia Minor and the East Aegean brought their own culinary specialties and recipes to the island of Syros.
To this day, Syros is actively farmed and some foods such as San Michalis cheese, Louza ham and fennel sausage are traditionally produced on the island. In the market alley of Ermoupoli you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables, fish, baked goods and local delicatessen.
A particularly large selection of Greek delicacies is offered, for example, by Delicatessen Prekas. The friendly owner Kostas has traveled extensively throughout Greece and the world.
He sells countless specialties in his shop, such as Fennel Cheese Marathotiraki, various island spices, organic thyme honey and the famous fennel paste from Syros. Spirits are also available. In addition to ouzo and tsipouro from Syros, there is also wine from local producer Fambrica.
Of course, the sweet specialties Chalvadopites and Loukoumia are not to be missed — they are often brought to the mainland as island souvenirs. Loukoumi is a relic of the Greeks from Asia Minor. This sugar-sweet treat is available in different flavors such as rose blossom, vanilla or orange.
More Syros Travel Tips & Info
Restaurant recommendations on Syros
To Tsipouradiko Tis Mirsinis, Ermoupoli
In Ermoupoli there are countless good restaurants and taverns to choose from. We particularly liked the restaurant “Tsipouradiko Mirsini” right on the harbour. The selection of appetizers is generous and every dish we tried was simply fantastic.
The mushrooms with manouri cheese, the salad with bulgur and the fava dip are particularly delicious. Even the classic tzatziki gets a new culinary twist. The prices are absolutely reasonable for the location. The staff was attentive and very friendly. A lovely vintage ambience, and the place is busy every day.
Stin Ithaki tou Ai, Ermoupoli
Tucked away in a hidden alley behind the harbour lies the small tavern “Ithaki tou Ai”. The landlord is very friendly and helps you choose from the delicious dishes. Everything is freshly prepared and tastes wonderful.
For vegetarians, the zucchini balls are highly recommended. Meat lovers should try the fried fennel sausage from Syros. The ambience is very cozy, and in summer you sit right in the alley under a canopy of leaves.
Accommodation on Syros Island
There are a few accommodations on Syros to choose from via Booking and Airbnb. Larger hotels are located directly at the port of Ermoupoli. It’s a bit busier here and you should expect some noise from the shipyard. Inside the city, in the alleyways, it is a bit quieter.
→ On Booking.com* you will find many accommodations in Syros and you can check prices here:
Our hotel tips for Syros
In the summer months, you can also choose from numerous holiday rentals in the seaside resorts of Finikas, Galissas and Kini. You can find suitable accommodation on Syros via Booking.com* and check prices there:
➲ To beautiful accommodations on the island*
Below we have put together a personal selection of beautiful hotels and apartments with great guest reviews on the island of Syros:
Wind Tales, Ano Syros
Tasteful apartment hotel on a hillside with sea views in the old town of Ano Syros. Good breakfast and chic Cycladic style rooms.
Naves Suites, Ermoupoli
Compact aparthotel above the waterfront. Elegant rooms with beautiful views from the balcony. Only two minutes from the city center.
Remvi, Galissas
Modern 2-star hotel with a pool right near the beach. Relaxed atmosphere, friendly hosts and a good breakfast.
Oro Suites, Kini
Modern rooms and suites right on Kini Beach. Exclusive suites with terrace and jacuzzi. Fantastic sunsets!
Syros Atlantis, Vari
A 3-star hotel near the beach with simple, clean rooms. Rich breakfast and friendly hosts.
Where we stayed on Syros
Aiolia Apartments Syros, Ermoupoli
We found a cozy little apartment in the Pefkakia district and were very happy with it. Accommodation prices outside of high season are quite reasonable. We had very lovely landlords in Lisa and Kostas, and on our next stay in Syros we will visit them again. You can view their accommodation on Booking.com* and book directly if needed:
Getting Around & Car Rental in Syros
You can easily explore Syros with a rental car. Most of the roads are in good condition and traffic is light on this small island — except on the busy main street of Ermoupoli, where you may encounter a small traffic jam during rush hour. Depending on the season, you can rent a small car from 25 euros per day. Along the harbour promenade of Ermoupoli you’ll find numerous car rental companies.
You can also reach remote places on Syros by wheeled vehicle. Having your own transport is essential if you want to go hiking in the north of the island, as there are hardly any buses to the highlands. Rental companies offering small cars, scooters and quads can also be found in the larger holiday resorts. Click on the Discover Cars* link to see prices and availability:
A few Syros buses reliably connect the villages in the south and west of the island with the capital. Rides within the city of Ermoupoli are free of charge. For all other destinations, you can buy a ticket from the bus driver or at a kiosk.
→ Further information on timetables and more can be found at: KTEL Syros
Getting to Syros
The island of Syros has a small airport, as well as a port for large ferries. There are no direct flights from Germany to the island. So the route almost always goes via Athens to Syros. Direct flights from Germany to Athens are available year-round from many German airports. You can check prices and book directly via the Skyscanner* portal:
Alternatively, you can fly to the island from Athens on a small plane with Olympic Air. More about the capital Athens and how to get there can be found here: Athens Travel Guide
By ferry to Syros
From the port of Piraeus you can reach the island in about 3.5 hours. The ferry companies Blue Star Ferries and Hellenic Seaways serve Syros daily. From Syros you can also explore the other islands of the Cyclades, such as Mykonos or Naxos. Take a look at our article: Island hopping Greece
→ Travelling to Syros by ferry? This article will provide you with all the information you need: Ferries in Greece
With our partner Ferryhopper* you can search for current ferry connections and book directly if needed:
➲ To the ferry booking with Ferryhopper*
Learn Greek on Syros
Ermoupoli is also home to a number of language schools for those who have lost their heart to Greece and want to learn the local language. We had chosen the Vardakeios Language Institute. The concept of the school is perfectly tailored to the needs of language students. We particularly liked the personal support and family atmosphere, which made learning so much easier.
Over a total of 10 lessons, we learned the basic elements of the Greek language and picked up a wide variety of vocabulary. The prices per lesson are very fair.
We felt so comfortable with our lovely language teacher Evgenia that we ended up leaving the island of Syros as friends. If you’re interested and would like more information, just take a look at the website of the institute: Vardakeios Language School
→ More travel tips and inspiration for the beautiful neighboring islands of Syros can be found here: Cyclades Islands
Syros YouTube Video
Impressions of the island can be found in the video by Robert Polasek ©:
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