Kefalonia: 10 highlights of the Ionian island

Wooded mountains, long sandy beaches and small bays determine the landscape of Kefalonia Island. Hardly any other Greek island is so diverse: in the south you will find countless sandy beaches and lush greenery, while the north is more of a rugged beauty, mountainous and with spectacular scenery.

Mass tourism and bed castles are not to be found here. There are rather small and medium-sized hotels, apartments and holiday homes. The island is a true destination for nature lovers. Kefalonia is wonderful for a combined hiking and bathing holidays in Greece.

Kefalonia is one of the greenest islands in Greece and the inhabitants are proud of the unique fir forest on Mount Ainos, which has been a nature reserve since 1962. Wild horses also live around the Ainos, which you can meet on a hike with luck.

You can stay in one place on Kefalonia (Cephalonia) to go on a beach holiday and take part in an organized excursion from time to time, but the island only becomes a real experience when you explore it on your own.

Enclosed our guest author Heike from the blog KefaloniaWay her 10 highlights on the island in the Ionian Sea:

#1 Argostoli: Capital of Kefalonia

Kefalonia is the largest of the seven Ionian Islands and with a population of less than 40,000, a very sparsely populated one. The reason for this is a severe earthquake that hit the island in 1953, in which most of the houses were destroyed at the time.

A few years later, more than half of the inhabitants had left the island. It was only with the stronger development of tourism in the 1990s that the population slowly rose again for the first time in decades. The majority of the inhabitants now live in the Main town Agostoli.

Anyone expecting whitewashed houses with flat roofs like in the Aegean Sea on Kefalonia will look in amazement at pastel-coloured houses with pointed roofs and roof tiles. Here, the Venetian architectural style because this was the predominant architectural style for centuries during Venetian rule.

If you enter Argostoli from the south, you will drive along the Koutavos Lagoon towards the centre. Worth seeing is the De Bosset Bridge (also Drapano Bridge), which leads from here to the other side of the lagoon.

It was built during the British protectorate in 1813 and entered the Guinness Book of World Records in 2018. At almost 700 meters, it is the longest stone bridge that leads over sea water. First and foremost, however, as a pedestrian bridge, it offers a beautiful walk across the lagoon.

Sea turtles in the port of Argostoli

A sight not to be missed are the Sea turtles (Caretta Caretta), who gather in the harbour every day when the fishing boats arrive to sell their catch. Similar to the neighboring Zakynthos Turtles they also get together on Kefalonia to mate.

The sea turtles, which can be up to one metre tall and weigh up to 100 kilos, have now learned that something always falls off for them when the fishermen throw unusable things overboard. This is then gladly accepted as a small snack. The best time is between morning and noon, before the fishermen leave again.

There are also excursion boats in the harbour, with which you can go on day trips and head for various beaches. Lunch on board (or on the beach) is included. Also on the rise are Kefalonia Fishing Trips on a fishing boat, where swimming stops are also made. The catch is then freshly prepared for the guests on board.

Shops, cafes and a small museum

Argostoli with its 10,000 inhabitants is not a buzzing big city. But that’s probably what makes it so charming. Along the main road that runs along the banks of the Gulf of Argostoli, you will find small shops, fruit and vegetable stalls, cafes and taverns. Parallel to the main street there is a pedestrian zone with other shops.

Above the theatre is the library, on the ground floor of which there is a small Folklore Museum . The pieces that can be seen here were donated by families of the island and put together with a lot of love to form an exhibition.

Here you can see clothes from the 18th and 19th centuries, Venetian lace handicrafts, furniture, church art and especially interesting: a photo exhibition in which you can see Kefalonia before the earthquake of 1953 (see article: Greece Earthquake) and immediately afterwards.

#2 Ferry trip to the Paliki Peninsula

How about enjoying a coffee or a walk from Argostoli with the little car ferry to Lixouri to drive over? Lixouri is the second largest city in Kefalonia with about 4,500 inhabitants and is located on the Paliki peninsula. The half-hour ferry ride alone is a pleasure when you sit on the sun deck and watch the coast pass you by.

In Lixouri there is a central square with cafes all around and a small pedestrian street. If you take the car on the ferry, Lixouri is a good starting point to explore the west of the island.

The most beautiful beaches on Paliki are the red-sand Xi-Beach, Petani and Atheras. But as everywhere else on Kefalonia, beautiful beaches and small bays can be found everywhere along the coast.

#3 Kefalonia beaches in the south

Between Argostoli and Skala in the far south, there are countless beautiful Kefalonia beaches. Some are organized with beach chairs, water sports and beach bars, others are natural.

Actually, you can drive every few kilometers from the main road towards the sea to find a small or larger beach. Here is a (really very small) selection:

Makris Gialos

The long sandy beach is only 2 km away from Argostoli on the Resort Lassi situated. Here you will find beach bars, sun loungers and water sports. In summer, the beach is extremely busy.

Avithos and Megali Petra

These sandy beaches in the Kalligata-Svoronata The areas are next to each other and are only separated by a few rocks through which you can walk to the other beach.

On the Avithos Beach there is a beach bar and beach chairs. If you want it to be very quiet, go right through a few rocks to Megali Petra beach. Both beaches slope very gently into the water, so they are also ideal for children.

The restaurant is recommended for a refreshment after a day at the beach “To Enetiko”, which is located directly above Avithos beach. The landlord is supplied with fresh fish every day.

Mounda Bay

There are two beaches here, Kaminia and Potamakia, which are very wide and 3 km long. Sun loungers are offered on the beach, but you also have plenty of space to find your own quiet spot.

These are the main sandy beaches for the Caretta sea turtles, which bury their eggs in the sand here in the summer. Areas cordoned off with plastic tape mark nests in the sand.

Skala Beach

Below Skala is the 2 km long sandy-pebble beach. There are beach chairs, beach bars and water sports. Skala has become the main tourist destination in the last 20 years. Nevertheless, the popular holiday resort Skala has not lost its charm and the long beach is spacious enough not to be overcrowded.

#4 Monastery of St. Andrew

That St. Andrew’s Monastery south of Peratata is less known than the larger monastery of the island’s saint Gerasimos. However, the monastery of St. Andrew offers a small but very interesting museum and a monastery church, which was largely spared from the earthquake of 1953.

If you want to immerse yourself in the atmosphere of an old Orthodox church, this small church is highly recommended.

In addition, a second, newer church is part of it. In this second, larger church, which exists on the monastery grounds, the treasure of the monastery is kept, namely a holy relic. It is the right sole of the Apostle Andrew, which was donated in 1639 by the Greek-Romanian princess Roxana when she joined the monastery.

The monastery was originally founded in the 13th century, then was abandoned for centuries until it was refounded by three sisters in 1579. The old, Orthodox church is part of the museum and is worth the visit alone.

In the 19th century, at the time of the British Protectorate, the monastery was used by the British as an orphanage and the monastery church as a school for the children. The wall paintings were whitewashed with plaster. When the British withdrew in 1864, the buildings were then used as a monastery again.

Due to the heavy Earthquake of 1953 almost all buildings were destroyed, only the small monastery church remained almost unscathed. However, during the quake, plaster fell from the church walls and exposed the originally plastered wall paintings from the 17th century, which can be admired again today. There is also a 17th-century iconostasis, ancient icons, and many rescued artifacts from the numerous destroyed churches in the area.

#5 Kastro: The Fortress of St. George

Above the monastery of St. Andrew near the village of Peratata lies the Venetian Fortress of St. George, also called Kastro. Its walls are visible from afar on a 320 m high hill.

From 1500 to 1757, the fortress was the seat of Venetian rule and the capital of Kefalonia. Argostoli was only the associated port at the time and was only made the capital in 1757.

From the Kastro you have a fantastic view over a part of the south of the island. Within the castle walls, you can walk among the ruins, a display board explains where the buildings were once located.

Directly below the castle there is the Kastro Café, which is run by a Greek-English couple. Here you can sit in a small paradise of flowers and trees and enjoy homemade cake and snacks as well as the peaceful idyll of the place.

#6 Central Kefalonia: Mountains, Wine & Caves

You can drive from Argostoli towards Sami or from Kastro towards the interior (the road behind the Kastro towards Troianata and Valsamata).

This small country road soon leads through vineyards to the Valley of Omala, where both the Robola winery, where you can do a wine tasting, and the monastery of the island’s patron saint Gerasimos are located.

There is a magnificent new church, which is only open with luck, and the smaller monastery church, where the body of the saint, who died in the 16th century, is kept in a silver coffin.

Far-reaching view from the highest mountain on the island

The road leads out of the valley and then up to the Mount Ainos (and on to Sami). You can go up to the summit of the Ainos, whose fir forest is a nature reserve.

For hiking enthusiasts, there are several hiking trails here that are marked with signs. But even if you don’t want to hike, you will be greeted with a fantastic view from the 1,628-metre-high highest mountain in the Ionian Islands rewarded.

Stalactite Cave Drogarati

Halfway up, you can also leave the Ainos on the right and follow the road to Sami. Shortly before Sami, on the left, there is the Stalactite Cave Drogarati, which is a must for cave lovers. Because of the fantastic acoustics, concerts have been held in the cave in the past.

Shortly before the Drogarati Cave, a sign on the right side of the road indicates a hiking trail along a narrow river. Here the hiking trail leads to the ruins of old watermills along.

#7 Visiting Sami

That harbour town of Sami is one of the main ports of Kefalonia. From here you can cross to the neighboring island of Ithaca in 45 minutes or in summer to Patras on the Peloponnese.

If you drive through Sami to the end, where the harbour police are located, you continue on a smaller road that leads you uphill through a small forest towards Antisamos beach.

Halfway along the route, you can follow a road uphill to the right until you reach the ruins of the Acropolis of Sami. Here you park on the road and climb a path uphill on foot and find yourself in the place that was the city-state of Sámi from the 5th to the 2nd century BC.

There were four city-states on Kefalonia at that time until the Romans conquered the island and its city-states in 189 BC. From up here you have a fantastic view down to Sami and the small neighboring island of Ithaca over.

If you drive back down to the road that leads to the Antisamos Beach leads, so soon a beautiful view over the bay awaits you. Not so many years ago, Antisamos was still an insider tip. There are now several beach bars and restaurants, and in summer it is quite busy.

#8 Melissani Lake and Cave in Karavomilos

A highlight on Kefalonia is the underground Lake of Melissani. It is located just 5 minutes from Sami. Part of its cave ceiling collapsed several thousand years ago, allowing sunlight to fall into the lake.

As soon as the sun’s rays hit the lake at noon, the water shines in an unreal glowing turquoise.

Many myths surround the lake. According to a local legend, the Nymph Melissanthe felt immortal in love with the god Pan. However, he did not return her love. So the unfortunate nymph threw herself into the lake and drowned.

Archaeological investigations have found finds from the 4th to 3rd centuries BC, including a figurine of the god Pan and a clay plate depicting dancing nymphs.

Through a short tunnel you go down to the lake, where rowers wait with their boats for visitors to row them across the lake to the back of the cave.

Coffee break in Agia Efimia

If you continue along the coast from Sami and Melissani, you will reach the coast after a few minutes. Agia Efimia, a former fishing village. In recent years, the place has become a popular port of call for sailboats sailing between the Ionian Islands from port to port.

Agia Efimia is a beautifully situated, friendly village and invites you to a coffee stop or a lunch break. Along the harbour pier there are numerous restaurants and cafés where you can fortify yourself.

#9 Myrtos Beach and the rugged beauty of the north

Just 15 minutes from Agia Efimia (or 45 minutes from Argostoli if you take the coastal road) is the Myrtos Beach on the cliffs of the northwest.

It is the most famous beach in Kefalonia and one of the most photographed beaches in Greece. The play of colours in the sea changes daily between deep blue and turquoise to milky blue, depending on the wind and waves.

The view from the Myrtos Observation Deck on the road, hundreds of meters above the beach, can only be described as breathtaking. But be careful when swimming: there are strong undercurrents here and you should not swim out in waves.

Idyllic villages in the north of Kefalonia

The road along the cliffs to the north leads first to Assos and then on to Fiskardo. That picturesque fishing village of Assos is picturesquely located in a small bay and is dominated by a more than 400-year-old Venetian fortress that towers high above the village.

Anyone who takes the trouble to Fortress of Assos (approx. 40 min) will be amazed at the size of the fortress interior and the wide view over the north. There are still old buildings to see and you can walk between the fields that used to be cultivated here.

In Assos, you should take the time to sit in one of the cafés by the water and just let the atmosphere work its magic on you.

#10 Fiskardo: The star among Kefalonia’s places

Too Fiskardo is beautifully situated around a bay. It is the only place that was not destroyed by the 1953 earthquake. Here you can see what the places looked like before the earthquake with their houses from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Fiskardo has been popular among sailors and celebrities. Hollywood stars have also been drawn here. That’s why the price level is generally quite high. But you can just sit here beautifully right by the water and enjoy the view over the bay.

Fiskardo has a long history and was already used as a port by the Romans in the 2nd century BC to the 4th century AD. A Roman cemetery can be found directly on the shore if you go out of the bay to the right.

A relaxing little walk is the hike to the Venetian Palace, which dates back to the 16th century. The Fiskardo Lighthouse, which is located on a small headland on the left side of the bay.

Just a few metres away is the younger, Victorian lighthouse from 1892. This walk runs along the shore and takes about half an hour.

If you need to cool off in the sea, you will find two small bays in the vicinity of Fiskardo, the Foki Beach and the Emplisi Beach.

More Kefalonia tips for your holiday

Accommodation in Kefalonia

There are many small and medium-sized Hotels in Kefalonia, but also countless self-catering accommodations. From small studios to spacious apartments, from villas with pools to small cottages in the countryside, everything is available.

→ About Booking.com* Here you will find many accommodations on Kefalonia and can check prices here:

Personal accommodation recommendation of the author

Joleni Cottage, Keramies

Joleni Cottage is located in the south of Kefalonia in a quiet location on the outskirts of the village of Keramies. The lovingly renovated holiday home is surrounded by trees and nestled in a large garden. It can accommodate 4-5 people.

Features include a well-equipped kitchen, a large living/dining area, as well as two beautiful terraces. Many interesting Kefalonia beaches can be reached in a few minutes by car. On Booking.com* you can book the accommodation directly if needed:

➲ To book from Joleni Cottage*

More hotel recommendations for Kefalonia

Poesia Suites – New aparthotel in the south of the island. Good proximity to the airport, stylish room furnishings and cozy pool area.

➲ To book Poesia Suites*

Canale Hotel & Suites – Stylish 4-star boutique hotel on the port of Argostoli. Elegant rooms, very good breakfast and friendly staff.

➲ Book Canale Hotel & Suites*

Skala Hotel – Family-run 3-star hotel near Skala beach. Modern rooms with sea views and varied breakfasts.

➲ Book Skala Hotel*

Getting around the island of Kefalonia

The best thing to do is to rent a car. The local car rental companies are usually cheaper and more flexible than the international ones. It is best to book a rental car in advance. Don’t be afraid of Kefalonia’s roads, driving is rather relaxed (except for August, when Athenians are on vacation). More about traffic and rental cars can be found here: Car rental in Greece

The rental car can also be taken with you by arrangement if you cross to the neighboring island of Ithaca. Ithaca, the island of Odysseus, is a beautiful little island and definitely worth a visit. On Discover Cars* you can check prices and availability for car rentals:

➲ Book your rental car here*

Although public bus connections have improved greatly in recent years, there is still a lot of room for improvement. You can check the current bus timetable on the website of the municipal bus company KTEL: KTEL Kefalonia

Getting to Kefalonia

From Munich there are Direct flights to Kefalonia with Condor. Or you can fly via Athens with a connection to Kefalonia with Aegean or Sky Express. Use Skyscanner* to find suitable flights from the airport of your choice:

➲ To cheap flights to the island*

There are ferry connections from the Italian ports of Trieste, Ancona and Venice to Patras in the Peloponnese. From Patras and Kyllini there are Ferries to Kefalonia above Zakynthos to the island ports of Sami and Poros. In midsummer, there are also direct ferries from Bari (Italy) to Kefalonia. Connections and prices for suitable ferries can be found via Ferryhopper*check:

➲ To the ferry booking with Ferryhopper*

Kefalonia Youtube Video

Impressions of the island can be found in the video by Robert Polasek ©:

→ An overview of all articles on the Ionian Islands can be found here: Ionian Islands Blog

About the author:

By chance, our guest author Heike came to Kefalonia in 1988, fell in love with the island and Greek life and finally stayed. She works in tourism, most recently for many years in a travel agency and as a tour guide. She has three daughters with her Greek husband Nikos. Since 2019, Heike and her husband have been renting out the holiday home Joleni Cottage, which they have lovingly renovated themselves. On her website Kefaloniaway.com Heike gives a lot of information and tips about the island of Kefalonia.

✐ More travel tips for Kefalonia can be found at: KefaloniaWay

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