Barely 10 km from the touristy Rhodes, lies a true island treasure in the middle of the deep blue Aegean Sea. Halki, the self-proclaimed Island of Peace and Friendship, may seem barren and rugged from a distance. Like a huge boulder, it rises almost 600 m from the sea.
“Anyone who makes the trip to this compact island will quickly succumb to the charm of Halki upon entering the port town of Emporio.”
In contrast to the partly unadorned concrete architecture on Rhodes, Chalki Island boasts rows of pastel-coloured manor houses and villas around the large harbour pier — an architecturally remarkable ensemble.
In the background, old windmills rise up. The waterfront promenade with its inviting taverns and cafés is a wonderful place to stroll. Colourful fishing boats bob in the harbour and the winding alleys enchant you right away. Postcard motifs around every corner!
In fact, the sea around Halki is so clear that you’ll want to jump into the harbour basin as soon as you arrive. Word has gotten around that a real gem is hidden here.
For some years now, excursion boats from Rhodes have been reaching the island every day, so many visitors only stay for a few hours. Find out whether it’s worth staying longer than a day on the island in our four Halki Highlights:
#1 Emporio: Capital of Halki
Emporio or Nimborio, simply called Chalki by the locals, is the only inhabited place on the island and is picturesquely located in a wind-protected bay in the southeast of the island. Most of the houses date back to the 19th century, when Halki became very wealthy as an island of sponge divers.
When demand for natural sponges fell drastically at the beginning of the 20th century due to the production of artificial sponges from the Far East, many Chalkiots emigrated to the USA (including Florida), Australia and New Zealand due to a lack of prospects.
Over the last two decades, exiled Chalkiots and regional associations have invested in the restoration of the island, as it was visibly falling into decay. A large part of the stone houses have been extensively renovated, and today Emporio presents itself as a Greek picture-book village.
Holidaymakers from Great Britain and France in particular have long succumbed to the charm of the island, so it comes as no surprise that more than 100 houses are already used exclusively as holiday homes.
Halki also presents itself today as a GR-Eco Island, an ecological project that pursues various approaches in terms of sustainability, renewable energy and resource management.
Walk along the waterfront
We especially recommend a walk along the charming waterfront and through the winding labyrinth of alleys in the morning and late afternoon. Around noon, it gets swelteringly hot in the village due to its south-east orientation away from the wind, and some shops also close for a rest period. At that time, you’re better off visiting the nearby beaches.
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Due to the compact nature and tiny size of Halki (area 26.99 km²), a car is not worth it here, as most corners are easily accessible on foot. Thanks to the low traffic, there is a wonderful heavenly tranquility on Halki and you can take a leisurely stroll through the main town.
At the heart of the waterfront is the pier for the ferries, colourful fishing boats anchor at the harbour pier to the west, and Halki’s marina lies to the east. Word of the island has already spread among sailors, and so there is plenty of yacht traffic here every day.
Agios Nikolaos Church of Halki
The venerable Church of Agios Nikolaos (1861) above the marina impresses with its large bell tower, which is said to be one of the largest in the Dodecanese islands, rivalled only by the tower of the Panormitis monastery on Symi.
On the forecourt you will discover different motifs made from sea pebbles (Greek: chochlaki), a craft characteristic of the islands of the region such as Rhodes, Kos and Chalki. The interior of the church, with its impressive paintings and icons, can only be visited during services (including Sunday mornings); otherwise the church remains closed.
Clock Tower and Town Hall of Halki
A detour to the town hall and the striking clock tower above the ferry dock is a must. The natural stone tower is an architectural gem and one of the first things you see when entering the port of Halki.
Once donated by exiled Chalciots, the Roloi (Greek for clock tower) was restored in 2022 and now looks better than ever. Before the restoration, it was even possible to climb to the upper floors. We couldn’t find out whether this will be possible again in the future.
Directly opposite stands the stylish Halki Town Hall. Bright white with pastel blue doors and windows, the neoclassical building immediately catches the eye. At night, both the town hall and the clock tower are beautifully illuminated.
Two romantic spiral staircases lead up to a balcony with a beautiful view of the harbour bay. In the summer months, you may also encounter Greek wedding couples here, as Halki has made quite a name for itself as a wedding destination.
💡 Viewpoint Chalki: To the southwest, three windmills tower over the town and offer a magnificent panoramic view of Emporio and the surrounding area. You can reach the viewpoint either from the access road to the 4-star Aretanassa Hotel or from Pondamos Beach. It’s most beautiful in the afternoon, when the sun bathes the bay in a wonderful light.
Museum tip Halki: Traditional house
If you want an insight into the domestic life of the Chalkiots in the 19th century, you should visit the island’s folklore museum. Spread across two floors and several rooms, you’ll find a variety of household items, tools, and countless artefacts from that era on display.
Information is available in Greek, English, and French. The lovely Anthi, who is over 80 years old, opens the small museum in Emporio daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. Admission costs €2.50.
Shopping in Halki
Queen of Chalki
A very stylish, somewhat hidden shop not far from the church of Agios Nikolaos, with creative jewellery such as earrings and necklaces, as well as original gift ideas and ceramics. The friendly owner Popi will help you find the perfect island souvenir.
Elen’s Art Boutique Chalki
If you follow the main road uphill towards the end of the village, you will pass Eleni’s shop, where you can buy very stylish clothes and elegant textiles as well as creative souvenirs, including sea pebble artworks by the Norwegian artist Selina Kritikou, known as Pebble Art from Rhodes.
#2 Chalki Castle: Kastro of Chorio
About 3 km outside of Emporio, at the end of the island’s only green valley, lies the former island capital, Chorio, or Paleo Chorio (Greek: old place).
Chorio was inhabited until the 19th century and served as a retreat from pirate attacks, particularly during the Byzantine era. Only a handful of people still live here during the summer months.
Spooky and impressive at the same time, the dilapidated village clings to a rock turned away from the sea, at the top of which, at an altitude of about 300 m, a former Fortress of the Knights of St. John perches spectacularly above the coast.
The recent history of Halki is closely linked to the neighbouring island of Rhodes. After the collapse of the Byzantine Empire from the 13th century onwards, the Venetians ruled over the island, followed by the knightly order of the Knights of St. John.
At strategically important points, they built fortified castles, such as the one in Paleo Chorio. From here they could control the sea routes and communicate directly with Rhodes, whose west coast is also lined with defensive towers and fortresses.
In ancient times, a temple stood on the site of the kastro, and in the early Middle Ages it was probably used as a defensive structure. In the 15th century, the Knights of the Order fortified the summit plateau to protect themselves against attacks from the Ottoman Empire. At the entrance to the fortress is the coat of arms of Grandmaster Pierre d’Aubusson.
From the castle you have a magnificent view of the south of the island, with the circular Trachia Peninsula and its beautiful double bay, as well as the strait between Rhodes and Chalki with the Alimia archipelago.
Inside the complex there are numerous cisterns, remains of buildings, and the late medieval Church of Agios Nikolaos, which is closed, but whose walls clearly incorporate ancient stone fragments.
No wonder Paleo Chorio is one of Halki’s most important archaeological sites, along with Kastro Hill. Scattered throughout the settlement are numerous churches, temple fragments and even an ancient sanctuary, the Throne of Zeus and Hecate. Valuable finds are exhibited in the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes.
The steep ascent to the Kastro from the parking lot in Chorio takes about 20 minutes. Hikers from Emporio reach the ghost village in about 45 minutes via a good asphalt road, passing the popular Pondamos beach (see #4) along the way. If you have less time available, you can be dropped off or picked up by island taxi.
In the summer months, the island bus also runs to Chorio up to twice a day. Check with your accommodation for the exact departure times. In summer there is also the tavern To Paradosiakó piáto tis Lefkosías in Chorio, where brothers Michalis and Katholikos serve delicious home cooking.
#3 Loneliness in the hinterland of Halki
Opposite the Kastro is the Rock Chapel Agia Varvara, from which you’ll have a magnificent view of the green valley of Halki. From here the road climbs steeply, as behind Chorio rise mighty mountains (including Maistros at 593 m and Profitis Ilias at 578 m), whose flanks drop steeply to the deep blue sea.
The hinterland of the island feels lonely and rugged. It’s hard to believe that Chalki was home to 8,000 inhabitants in ancient times and is described in ancient writings as well-forested and rich in water. Even copper (Greek: chalkos) is said to have been mined here in large quantities, from which the name of the island is derived.
Today you can no longer see any trees on the plateau. The numerous goats and sheep are content with the low shrubs and countless wild herbs and seek shelter in the old farming settlements of Halki, whose buildings and walls are still well preserved.
White chapels in the middle of the barren landscape add interesting splashes of colour. Occasionally beekeepers have set up their hives — Chalki honey is very popular. If you want to explore this rugged area on foot, you should bring enough water and provisions, as there are no places to stop for refreshments and very little shade.
A wide paved road leads about 7.5 km into the hinterland of the island. The so-called Tarpon Springs Boulevard was donated by emigrated Chalkiots from the city of the same name in the USA.
The small town of Tarpon Springs is now considered the municipality with the highest proportion of residents of Greek origin (approx. 9.5%). Many Greek sponge divers moved to the USA with their families at the end of the 19th century in search of a better life.
Monastery of St. John
At the end of the paved road is the Monastery of Agios Ioannis, a green oasis in the barren landscape. The complex houses utility rooms, former monastery cells and the monastery church (19th century), with huge cypresses at its centre.
The colour scheme is not the typical Greek blue and white, but red on the doors, windows and church roof. In summer, the monastery is inhabited by a goat farming family, who unfortunately were not very friendly during our visit, which somewhat clouded the overall impression of the tranquil complex.
If you want to hike to the monastery from Emporio, you should plan at least 2.5 hours each way. We recommend hiking in spring, when nature is a little more alive with colourful wildflowers, or during the traditional church fair.
On 28 August, Chalki’s biggest festival (after Easter) draws numerous Chalkiots and guests from the surrounding islands such as Rhodes, Symi and Tilos on a pilgrimage to this remote place.
The festival is accompanied by local food, dancing and singing, and many spend the night in cells or directly on the Platia under the open sky. For the return journey, you are sure to find a friendly local to help.
#4 Beaches of Halki: Pondamos & Co.
The fact that Halki has been spared from tourist crowds to this day is due on the one hand to the arduous journey (plane to Rhodes, ferry to Halki), and on the other hand to the very modest bathing facilities. Three beaches are within walking distance of Emporio.
Of course, you can also take a dip in the harbour bay — the water is crystal clear, and we found the harbour to be one of the cleanest in the Aegean. At either end of the waterfront, boarding ladders provide access to the sea.
💡 From the port of Emporio you can take the Gianni’s Express boat and discover the beaches of Halki and the offshore island of Alimia. The information booth with departure times is located opposite the Markakis supermarket.
Pondamos
The most beautiful beach on Halki is probably about a 10-minute walk (around 1 km) from the port of Emporio. Parasols (price: approx. €10) are set out on a terrace in front. The beach itself is narrow but has fine grey sand. From the nearby chapel of Agia Thekla you have a beautiful view over the entire bay.
Most day trippers head to this beach, so it gets crowded around lunchtime. From 4 p.m. onwards, things quieten down — making it the perfect time to cool off in the crystal-clear water. The wind-protected bay is popular with sailors, and Nick’s Taverna is on hand to keep hungry guests well fed.
Ftenagia
A picturesque bay with turquoise blue water not far from the harbour entrance of Emporio. Swimming is possible along the weathered coastline or on a small sandy beach. Sun loungers are provided by the taverna of the same name. Ftenagia can be reached from the Hotel Aretanassa in 5 minutes via a path above the sea.
Kania
A beautiful beach about 2.5 km north of Emporio. You’ll need at least 30 minutes on foot to reach Kania, and there’s a fairly steep hill to tackle along the way. The small bay shimmers emerald blue, though the pebble beach is only 10 m wide.
The beach bar at Kania Beach (see restaurant recommendations) provides umbrellas and sunbeds. For the return journey, taking a taxi or hitchhiking is recommended.
Halki or Symi?
This question has already been asked by many attentive Rhodes vacationers, because in addition to Halki, there is another directly neighboring island that also boasts picturesque architecture.
Symi Island is located northwest of Rhodes and is also known as the pearl of the Eastern Aegean. It is almost twice as big as Halki, has 1,000 inhabitants (cf. about 500 in Halki) and there are some villages to discover. You can find our article about the island here: Symi Highlights
Symi can be reached by ferry from Rhodes Town in about 1.5 hours. Halki, on the other hand, can be reached from Rhodes Town (about 1.5 hours travel time) as well as from Kamiros Skala in the west of Rhodes in about 55 minutes.
If you prefer, you can also book a guided day trip to the island of Symi.
Whether Symi or Halki? The best excursion destination for you probably depends on the location of your hotel on Rhodes.
For all holidaymakers in the south and west of Rhodes, a trip to Halki is definitely worthwhile. For those staying in the north and east of Rhodes, Symi is more suitable, as it takes an extra hour to drive to the departure port for Halki, Kamiros Skala.
Personally, we felt comfortable on both islands. Symi is the more varied island, where there are many other sights to discover (including the Panormitis Monastery) in addition to the main town.
Halki is tranquil and quieter overall, where you can relax more. Nevertheless, die-hard Greece fans will sooner or later visit both of these island gems.
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Our restaurant recommendations on Halki
The Twins Cafe-Bar
This charming café-bar is situated right on the pier. It’s where the locals gather for a chat. The team, led by the cheerful twin brothers, is very friendly, and we were impressed by both the prices of the ice creams, drinks and snacks and the quality of the products.
Kania Beach Restaurant
Cozy tavern on the beach of the same name. The friendly team serves typical Greek dishes and freshly grilled fish at fair prices. At noon, longer waiting times are to be expected due to the large crowds. We stopped here several times during our visit to Halki — also recommended for an evening drink!
Mavri Thalassa
Quaint tavern on the southern part of the waterfront. Enjoy a lovely view of the harbor pier with its colorful fishing boats. The front tables are very popular, so it’s worth arriving early or making a reservation. Landlord Tamazi and his team serve delicious home cooking and wonderful fish dishes. We particularly liked the bean salad with fish, the Melitzanosalata (eggplant dip) and the beef stifado.
Accommodation in Halki: hotels and apartments
Halki is a very quiet island, and those looking for parties and wild nights out will search in vain. In recent years, the restoration of neoclassical houses has resulted in some very stylish guesthouses and holiday homes. You can find an overview of all accommodations on Halki on the hotel portal Booking.com*
There are no large hotel complexes for package tourists, as the island administration strives for sustainable tourism. The only 4-star Hotel Aretanassa (View on Booking*) was originally built in 1980 and was most recently restored with EU funds. It offers a very comfortable stay right by the sea.
Where we stayed in Halki
Althea Apartments
Michalis and his lovely mother Frangitsa rent out two compact apartments with large balconies on the upper edge of the village. Newly furnished and well equipped, at fair prices and with a magnificent view of Emporio.
The hosts helped us with our luggage and were always on hand to help. We can recommend the apartments without reservation. All details can be found via the link to Booking.com*:
Getting to Halki
Halki is located in the heart of the Dodecanese archipelago, between Kos and Rhodes. The island is best reached from the large neighbouring island of Rhodes.
From Rhodes Town there are almost daily ferries to Halki. You can choose between the fast catamaran of the ferry company Dodekanisos Seaways, the car ferries of BlueStar Ferries, or SAOS Ferries. The latter even allows you to take vehicles along at a low cost.
→ This article gives you all the information you need for travelling by ferry to Halki: Ferries in Greece
- Dodekanisos Seaways: 2 x per week, travel time approx. 1 h 10 min, price from €21.
- Blue Star: 2 x per week, travel time approx. 1 h 45 min, price from €8.
- SAOS: 2 x per week, travel time approx. 2 h 30 min, price from €8.
Through our partner Ferryhopper* you can search and book ferry connections from Rhodes or other islands:
➲ To the ferry booking with Ferryhopper*
Alternatively, you can also reach the island of Halki from the port town of Kamiros Skala in the west of Rhodes. The ships Fedon (Alko Ferries) and Nissos Halki operate between the islands several times a day in summer. The crossing to Halki takes about 50 minutes. Tickets cost between €5 and €15 depending on the time of day and are available at the kiosk directly at the port of Kamiros Skala.
Getting around Halki
Halki is a very small island with only one village, which is also the port. Cars are scarce, so there is no option to rent a vehicle. You get around on foot, by hitchhiking, or by taking the island bus or taxi.
The island bus runs three times a day in summer to the beaches (see point #4) and once to Chorio or the monastery of Agios Ioannis. The fare to the beaches is €1.50 per trip. The taxi ride costs between €5 and €10, depending on the distance.
→ More articles and numerous Travel tips to the neighboring island of Rhodes can be found here: Rhodes Blog
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