Barely 10 km from the touristy Rhodes, lies a true island treasure in the middle of the deep blue Aegean Sea. Halki, the self-proclaimed Island of peace and friendship, may seem barren and rugged from a distance. Like a huge boulder, it rises almost 600 m from the sea.
“Anyone who takes a trip to the compact island will quickly succumb to the charm of Halki when entering the port town of Emporio.”
In contrast to the partly unadorned concrete architecture on Rhodes, there are rows of Chalki Island pastel-coloured manor houses and villas around the large harbour pier, an architecturally remarkable ensemble.
In the background, old windmills rise up. The waterfront promenade with inviting taverns and cafés is a wonderful place to stroll. Colourful fishing boats bob in the harbour and the winding alleys enchant right away. Postcard motifs on every corner!
In fact, the sea around Halki is so clear that you want to jump into the harbor basin as soon as you arrive. Word has gotten around that a real gem is hidden here.
For some years now, excursion boats from Rhodes have been reaching the island every day, so many guests only stay for a few hours. Whether it is worth staying longer than one day on the island, you can find out in our four Halki Highlights:
#1 Emporio: Capital of Halki
Emporio or Nimborio, simply called Chalki by the locals, is the only inhabited place on the island and is picturesquely located in a wind-protected bay in the southeast of the island. Most of the houses date back to the 19th century, when Halki became very wealthy as an island of sponge divers.
When the demand for natural sponges fell drastically at the beginning of the 20th century due to the production of artificial sponges from the Far East, many Chalkiots emigrated to the USA (including Florida), Australia and New Zealand due to a lack of career prospects.
In the last two decades, exiled Chalkiots and regional associations have invested in the appearance of the island, as the place was visibly left to decay. A large part of the stone houses have been extensively restored and so Emporio presents itself today as a Greek picture-book village.
Holidaymakers from Great Britain and France in particular have succumbed to the charm of the island for years and so it is not surprising that more than 100 houses are already used as pure holiday homes.
In addition, Halki today presents itself as a GR-Eco Island, an ecological project that pursues different approaches in terms of sustainability, renewable energies and resource management.
Walk along the waterfront
A walk along the charming waterfront and through the winding labyrinth of alleys, we recommend you especially in the morning and late afternoon. Around noon, it gets sweltering hot in the village due to the south-east orientation away from the wind, and some shops also have their rest periods. Then you should rather visit the nearby beaches.
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Due to the one-place character and the tiny size of Halki (area 26.99 km²), cars are not worth it here, because most corners are easily accessible on foot. Due to the low traffic, there is a lot of heavenly tranquility on Halki and you can take a leisurely stroll through the main town.
In the heart is the pier for the ferries, in the west colorful fishing boats anchor at the harbor pier, in the east is the marina of Halki. Word of the island has already spread among sailors, and so there is a lot of yacht traffic here every day.
Agios Nikolaos Church of Halki
The time-honored Church of Agios Nikolaos (1861) above the marina impresses with its large bell tower, which is said to be one of the largest of the Dodecanese islands, along with the tower of the Panormitis monastery on Symi.
On the forecourt you will discover different motifs from sea pebbles (Greek: chochlaki), which are responsible for the islands of the region such as Rhodes, Kos and Chalki. The interior of the church with its impressive paintings and icons can only be visited during services (including Sunday mornings), otherwise the church remains closed.
Clock Tower and Town Hall of Halki
A detour to the town hall and the striking clock tower above the ferry dock is a must. The natural stone tower is an architectural gem and one of the first buildings you see when entering the port of Halki.
Once donated by exiled Chalciots, the Roloi (Greek for clock tower) was restored again in 2022 and now shows its most beautiful side. Before the restoration, it was even possible to climb the upper floors. We could not find out whether this will be possible again in the future.
Directly opposite is the stylish Halki Town Hall. Bright white with pastel blue doors and windows, the neoclassical building immediately catches the eye. At night, the town hall and the clock tower are atmospherically illuminated.
Two romantic spiral staircases lead up, from the balcony you have a beautiful view of the harbor bay. In the summer months, you can also meet Greek wedding couples here, because Halki has made a name for itself as a wedding destination.
💡 Viewpoint Chalki: To the southwest, three windmills tower over the town and offer a magnificent panoramic view of Emporio and the surrounding area. You can reach the viewpoint either from the access road to the 4-star Aretanassa Hotel or from Pondamos Beach. It is most beautiful in the afternoon, when the sun bathes the bay in a wonderful light.
Museum tip Halki: Traditional house
If you want an insight into the domestic life of the Chalkiots in the 19th century, you should visit the island’s folklore museum. On two floors, various household items, tools and countless finds from the time are exhibited in several rooms.
Information is available in Greek, English and French. The lovable over 80-year-old Anthi opens the small museum in Emporio daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 8 p.m., admission costs €2.50.
Shopping in Halki
Queen of Chalki
Very stylish, somewhat hidden shop not far from the church of Agios Nikolaos with creative jewellery such as earrings and necklaces as well as original gift ideas and ceramics. The friendly owner Popi helps you find the perfect island souvenir.
Elen’s Art Boutique Chalki
If you follow the main road uphill towards the end of the village, you will pass the shop of Eleni, where you can buy very stylish clothes and elegant textiles as well as creative souvenirs, including sea pebble artworks by the Norwegian artist Selina Kritikou, known as Pebble Art from Rhodes.
#2 Chalki Castle: Kastro of Chorio
About 3 km outside of Emporio, at the end of the island’s only green valley, lies the former island’s capital, Chorio, or Paleo Chorio (Greek: old place).
Chorio was inhabited until the 19th century and served as a retreat from pirate attacks, especially in the Byzantine Empire. Only in the summer months do a handful of people still live here.
Spooky and impressive at the same time, the dilapidated village clings to a rock turned away from the sea, on the top of which, at an altitude of about 300 m, a former Fortress of the Knights of St. John spectacularly perched above the coast.
The recent history of Halki is closely linked to the neighboring island of Rhodes. Thus, after the collapse of the Byzantine Empire from the 13th century onwards, the Venetians ruled over the island under the knightly order of the Knights of St. John.
At strategically important points, they built fortified castles, such as in Paleo Chorio. From here you could control the sea routes and communicate directly with Rhodes, on whose west coast there are also defensive towers and fortresses.
In ancient times, a temple stood on the site of the kastro, and in the early Middle Ages it was probably a kind of defensive structure. In the 15th century, the Knights of the Order fortified the summit plateau to protect themselves against attacks from the Ottoman Empire. At the entrance to the fortress is the coat of arms of the Grandmaster Pierre d’Aubusson.
From the castle you have a magnificent view of the south of the island with the circular Trachia Peninsula and its beautiful double bay, as well as the strait between Rhodes and Chalki with the Alimia archipelago.
Inside the complex there are numerous cisterns, remains of buildings and the late medieval Church of Agios Nikolaos which is closed, but in whose walls ancient stone fragments are clearly walled in.
No wonder Paleo Chorio is one of Halki’s most important archaeological sites, along with Kastro Hill. Scattered throughout the settlement are numerous churches, temple fragments and even an ancient sanctuary, the Throne of Zeus and Hecate. Valuable finds are exhibited in the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes.
For the steep ascent to the Kastro from the parking lot in Chorio you need about 20 minutes, hikers from Emporio reach the ghost village in about 45 minutes via a good asphalt road, among other things you pass the popular Pondamos beach (see #4). If you have less time available, you can be taken there or picked up by island taxi.
In the summer months, the island bus also runs to Chorio up to twice a day. The exact driving times are to be requested from your accommodation. In summer there is also the tavern To Paradosiakó piáto tis Lefkosías in Chorio, where the brothers Michalis and Katholikos serve delicious home cooking.
#3 Loneliness in the hinterland of Halki
Opposite the Kastro is the Rock Chapel Agia Varvara, from which you will have a magnificent view of the green valley of Halki. From now on the road climbs steeply, because behind Chorio rise mighty mountains (including Maistros 593 m and Profitis Ilias 578 m), whose flanks fall steeply to the deep blue sea.
The hinterland of the island seems lonely and rugged. It’s hard to believe that Chalki was home to 8,000 inhabitants in ancient times and is described in ancient writings as well-forested and rich in water. Even copper (Greek: chalkos) is said to have been mined here in large quantities, from which the name of the island is derived.
Today you can no longer see any trees on the plateau. The numerous goats and sheeps are content with the low shrubs and countless wild herbs and seek shelter in the old farming settlements of Halki, whose buildings and walls are still well preserved.
White chapels in the middle of the barren landscape set interesting colour accents. Occasionally beekeepers have set up their hives, the Chalki Honey is very popular. If you want to explore this bizarre area on foot, you should take enough water and provisions with you, as there are no places to stop for refreshments and little shade.
A wide paved road leads about 7.5 km into the hinterland of the island. The so-called Tarpon Springs Boulevard was donated by emigrated Chalkiots from the city of the same name in the USA.
The small town of Tarpon Springs is now considered the municipality with the highest proportion of inhabitants of Greek origin (approx. 9.5%). Many Greek sponge divers moved to the USA with their families at the end of the 19th century in search of a better life.
Monastery of St. John
At the end of the paved road is the Monastery of Agios Ioannis, a green oasis in the barren landscape. Today, the complex houses utility rooms, former monastery cells and the monastery church (19th century) with its huge cypresses in the centre.
The colour scheme is not typical Greek blue and white, but red on the doors, windows and church roof. In the summer, the monastery is inhabited by a goat farming family, which unfortunately was not very friendly during our visit, which somewhat clouded the overall impression of the tranquil complex.
If you want to hike the monastery from Emporio, you should plan at least 2.5 hours each way. We recommend a hike in spring, when nature is a little more alive with colorful wildflowers, or at the traditional church fair.
On 28 August, the Chalki’s biggest festival (after Easter) numerous Chalkiots and guests from the surrounding islands such as Rhodes, Symi or Tilos make a pilgrimage to the remote place.
The festival is accompanied by local food, dancing and singing, many spend the night in cells or directly on the Platia under the open sky. For the return transport, you are sure to find a friendly local.
#4 Beaches of Halki: Pondamos & Co.
The fact that Halki has been spared from tourist crowds to this day is due on the one hand to the arduous journey (plane to Rhodes, ferry to Halki), and on the other hand to the very modest bathing facilities. Three beaches are within walking distance of Emporio.
Of course, you can also refresh yourself in the harbor bay, the water is crystal clear and in general we found the harbor to be one of the cleanest in the Aegean. At the edges of the waterfront, boarding ladders provide access to the sea.
💡 From the port of Emporio you can take the Boat Gianni’s Express and discover the beaches of Halki and the offshore island of Alimia. The information booth with departure times is located opposite the Markakis supermarket.
Pondamos
The probably The most beautiful beach of Halki is about a 10-minute walk (about 1 km) from the port of Emporio. Parasols (price: approx. 10 €) are located on a terrace in front. The beach section is narrow, but has fine grey sand. From the nearby chapel of Agia Thekla you have a beautiful view over the entire bay.
Most day trippers prefer this beach, so it is crowded at lunchtime. From 4 p.m. onwards, peace returns here, then it’s worth cooling off in the crystal-clear water. The wind-protected bay is popular with sailors, and Nick’s Taverna provides hungry guests with hearty food on site.
Ftenagia
Picturesque bay with turquoise blue sea not far from the harbour entrance of Emporio. Bathing opportunities are available on the weathered coast or on a small sandy beach. Sun loungers are provided by the tavern of the same name. Ftenagia can be reached from the Hotel Aretanassa in 5 minutes via a path above the sea.
Kania
Beautiful beach about 2.5 km north of Emporio. You will need at least 30 minutes on foot to get to Kania and you will have to overcome a fairly steep hill. The small bay shimmers emerald blue, but the pebble beach is only 10 m wide.
The local beach bar at Kania Beach (see recommendations for restaurants) provides umbrellas in the back. For the way back, a taxi or hitchhiking is recommended.
Halki or Symi?
This question has already been asked by many attentive Rhodes vacationers, because in addition to Halki, there is another directly neighboring island, which also boasts picturesque architecture.
The Symi Island is located northwest of Rhodes and is also known as the pearl of the Eastern Aegean. It is almost twice as big as Halki, has 1,000 inhabitants (cf. about 500 in Halki) and there are some villages to discover. You can find our article about the island here: Symi Highlights
Symi is accessible by ferry from Rhodes Town can be reached in about 1.5 hours. Halki, on the other hand, can be reached from Rhodes Town (from 1.5 hours driving time) as well as from Kamiros Skala in the west of Rhodes in about 55 minutes.
If necessary, you can also buy a guided day trip to the island of Symi.
Whether Symi or Halki? The best excursion destinations for you probably depend on the location of your hotel on Rhodes.
For all holidaymakers in the south and west of Rhodes, a trip to Halki is definitely worthwhile. Of the holiday resorts in the north and east of Rhodes, Symi is more suitable, as it takes an extra hour to drive to the port of departure for Halki. Kamiro’s Scale .
Personally, we felt comfortable on both islands. Symi is the more varied island, where there are many other sights to discover (including the Panormitis Monastery) in addition to the main town.
Halki is tranquil and quieter overall, here you can relax more. Nevertheless, die-hard Greece fans will sooner or later visit both island pearls.
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Our restaurant recommendations on Halki
Café Theodosia
This nice café-bar is located directly on the harbour pier. Here the locals meet for a chat, the service is very friendly and ice cream, drinks and snacks convinced us both in terms of taste and price. Also highly recommended for breakfast (yoghurt, pancakes and omelette)!
Kania Beach Restaurant
Cozy tavern on the beach of the same name. The friendly team serves typical Greek dishes and freshly grilled fish at fair prices. At noon, longer waiting times must be expected due to the large crowds. We stopped here several times on our visit to Halki, also recommended for a drink in the evening!
💡 Insider tips for Rhodes: Get our Rhodes travel guide now and benefit from our experience in Halki: More info
Mavri Thalassa
Quaint tavern on the southern part of the waterfront. Nice view of the harbor pier with the colorful fishing boats. The front tables are very popular, it is worth coming early or making a reservation. Landlord Tamazi and his team serve delicious home cooking and delicious fish dishes. We particularly liked the bean salad with fish, the Melitzanosalata (eggplant dip) and the beef stifado.
Accommodation in Halki: hotels and apartments
Halki is a very quiet island, opportunities for parties and debauched nights are sought in vain. In recent years, the restoration of neoclassical houses has resulted in very stylish guesthouses and holiday homes. An overview of all accommodations on Halki you get on the hotel portal Booking.com*
There are no large hotel complexes for package vacationers, the island administration strives for sustainable tourism. The only 4-star Hotel Aretanassa (View on Booking*) was originally built in 1980 and most recently restored with EU funds. It offers you a very comfortable stay right by the sea.
Here we spent the night in Halki
Althea Apartments
Michalis and his sympathetic mother Frangitsa rent out two compact apartments with large balconies on the upper outskirts of the village. Newly furnished and well equipped, at fair prices and with magnificent view of Emporio.
The hosts helped us with the luggage and were always available to help us with words and deeds. We can recommend the hotel without reservation. All details can be found via the link to Booking.com*:
Getting to Halki
Halki is located in the heart of the archipelago of the Dodecanese between Kos and Rhodes. The island is best reached from the large neighboring island of Rhodes.
From Rhodes Town there are almost daily ferries to Halki. You can choose between the fast catamaran of the ferry company Dodekanisos Seaways, the car ferries of BlueStar Ferries or SAOS Ferries. The latter even makes it possible to take vehicles with you at low cost.
→ This article gives you all the necessary information for your journey by ferry to Halki: Ferries in Greece
- Dodekanisos Seaways: 2 x per week, travel time approx. 1 h 10 min, price from 21 €.
- Blue Star: 2 x weekly, travel time approx. 1 h 45 min, price from 8 €.
- SAOS: 2 x per week, travel time approx. 2 hours 30 min., price from 8 €.
About our partner Ferryhopper* you can research and book ferry connections from Rhodes or other islands:
➲ To the ferry booking with Ferryhopper*
Alternatively, you can also reach the island of Halki from the port town of Kamiros Skala in the west of Rhodes. The Ships Fedon (Alko Ferries) and Nissos Halki operate between the islands several times a day in summer. The crossing to Halki takes about 50 minutes. Tickets cost between €5 and €15 depending on the time of day and are available at the kiosk directly at the port of Kamiros Skala.
Getting around Halki
Halki is a very small island and there is only one village, which is also the port. Cars are in short supply, so there is no possibility to rent a vehicle. You move on foot, hitchhiking, with the Island bus or taxi away.
The island bus runs three times a day in summer to the beaches (see point #4) and once to Chorio or the monastery of Agios Ioannis. The fare to the beaches is €1.50 per trip. The taxi ride costs between €5 and €10, depending on the distance.
→ More articles and numerous Travel tips to the neighbouring island of Rhodes can be found at:Rhodes at a glance
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