Chios Island: Hidden gem in the northern Aegean Sea

Wildly romantic landscapes, secluded dream beaches, medieval villages, cultural treasures, and culinary delights. You would think that the fifth largest island in Greece would hardly be able to save itself from holidaymakers due to its authentic beauty. However, when you set foot on the island, you quickly realise that Chios must be one of the last undiscovered jewels in the Aegean.

“Chios is an island with an unmistakable identity that you come into contact with so intensely during a visit that you feel the urge to return after just a short time.”

Hardly any tourists find their way to this island and its population of more than 50,000. It is largely only known among insiders for its unique natural treasure. The “Tears of Chios”, as the mastic resin is called, have been extracted from the local mastic tree for centuries and are said to help with all kinds of health ailments.

We stayed on the island for a week and were immediately enchanted by the warmth of the locals, the picturesque villages, and empty beaches that sparkle in the most beautiful shades of turquoise. Our 10 Highlights of Chios are just a small snapshot of a breathtaking island, which, for us personally, is one of the most beautiful in the Aegean.

#1 Chios Town and the windmills

The island’s capital is located in the east of Chios and has just under 27,000 inhabitants. If you arrive by ferry from Lesvos or Samos, this is where you will first set foot on land.

Because Chios Town has been destroyed and rebuilt several times in the past due to conquests and earthquakes (see our article: Greece Earthquakes), the architecture along the harbour promenade looks a bit thrown together and might not inspire you right away. Nevertheless, a short stroll through Chios Town is definitely worthwhile.

The Castle of Chios, which adjoins the old town, is well worth seeing. At the northern end, you will come across the old Ottoman baths, which have been extensively restored and are great to visit.

For history buffs, a visit to the Byzantine Museum of Chios, located opposite the main square “Platia Vounakiou”, is highly recommended. It is housed in the former Mecidiye Mosque, and its minaret has been preserved to this day.

In the north of Chios Town, right below the hospital, you will find four of the island’s photogenic windmills. We took advantage of an early ferry departure to see the windmills at sunrise. While countless holidaymakers crowd together on Mykonos to see something similar, there is absolutely no one here. A truly magical spectacle!

💡 Easter on Chios: Fans of firecrackers and rockets will definitely get their money’s worth at Easter in Vrontados. In this village just north of Chios Town, the annual rocket wars (roketopolemos) take place, with locals firing handmade rockets at each other’s churches. The church of Panagia Erithiani in Vrontados is also well worth seeing. The church square is made entirely of stunning sea pebble mosaics.

 

The valley of Kampos

South of Chios Town, in a lush green valley, there is a residential area filled with countless citrus and orange trees, all surrounded by high walls made of reddish stone. In the 14th century, Genoese rulers and wealthy citizens from Chios Town began their work in Kampos and built magnificent villas.

Thanks to the abundance of natural water resources, they were able to create lush gardens filled with fruit trees and flowers. You can explore this incredibly fertile area on a walk or a bike ride, and pay a visit to the Citrus Museum located there (which is only open during the summer season).

#2 The painted village of Pyrgi

Where elsewhere crazy Instagrammers and selfie maniacs would probably invade such a bizarre place, Pyrgi is still wonderfully tranquil. It is the largest medieval village out of over 20 “mastichochoria” (mastic villages) on the island.

Its special architecture makes it completely unique in Greece. Almost all the house facades are adorned with decorative motifs, known as “Xysta”. These black and white geometric scratch patterns date back to the former rule of the Genoese on Chios and have been carefully renewed in recent decades.

Even today, Pyrgi remains very authentic and traditional. In the alleys, you will sometimes meet women sorting and cleaning the mastic resin. The beautiful village square, Platia Livadi, invites you to linger while you simply can’t stop marvelling at the incredible house patterns.

Take your time to stroll through the winding streets and look at the old Byzantine Church of Agioi Apostoloi, which was likely built in the 14th century and whose walls are adorned with impressive frescoes. The magnificent St. Mary’s Church (Kato Panagia) on the main square was even completely decorated with these creative scratch patterns.

#3 The excavations of Emporio

The small harbour town of Emporio (also spelled Emborio) is located in the very south of Chios and offers a historical sight right before the entrance to the village. The archaeological site of Emporio has only recently been opened to visitors after many years of excavations.

Here you can see a Neolithic settlement from pre-Christian times, along with an acropolis featuring the remains of a temple of Athena. The somewhat arduous climb up the hill is more than worth it, because from the top you can enjoy a magnificent view right across the south coast.

#4 Paradisiacal beaches of Chios

If you leave aside the main holiday season for Greeks (July and August), you are often completely alone on most of the island’s beaches and can swim totally undisturbed. The number of beautiful sand or pebble bays is almost endless, so we will share our personal Top 3 Chios beaches below.

Agia Dynami Beach

A dreamlike bay with a sandy beach and crystal-clear water that slopes gently into the sea. Some tamarisk trees provide a little necessary shade; otherwise, Agia Dynami Beach is completely natural and has no sunbed operators. This paradisiacal beach is located in the south of the island, not far from the mastic village of Olimpi.

Mavra Volia Beach

Mavra Volia Beach is located right on the coast of Emporio. This wide stretch of beach is made up of black, round volcanic rocks and does not require any parasols or loungers. There is a small canteen cart on site that provides bathers with cool drinks.

If you walk just a little further, you will discover an even more beautiful stretch of beach made of dark volcanic stones hidden behind the rocks. The sea here is incredibly clear and is also wonderful for snorkelling, provided you have brought your diving equipment with you 😉

Trachili Beach

Trachili Beach in the west of Chios sparkles from afar in the most stunning shades of turquoise. During our visit in June, there was not a single soul on this dream beach.

The backdrop, featuring a centuries-old defensive tower on the offshore peninsula, is simply spectacular. The bright pebble beach is completely natural and perfect if you are looking for a secluded bay to relax in.

#5 Mastic villages Mesta and Olimpi

Mesta is one of over 20 mastic villages located in the south of Chios. These so-called “Mastichochoria” form a community of villages whose main activity is still the production of mastic. Thanks to their unmistakable character and special architecture, they are an official UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mesta is one of the most beautiful mastic villages and features a medieval town centre. During Byzantine times in the 12th century, the village was built as a kind of “residential fortress”. From above, Mesta looks like a pentagon, enclosed entirely by its fortification wall.

Even today, walking through the cobbled alleys makes you feel like you’ve stepped inside a castle. The tree-lined village square with its cute cafés and the magnificent Taxiarchis church, which is home to a miraculous icon of the Archangel Michael, are particularly worth seeing in Mesta.

Since there are no classic taverns in Mesta itself, it is well worth taking a quick detour to the harbour town of Limenas in the evening. There are two rustic taverns here serving fresh fish dishes and Greek mezedes. Just behind Limenas is Didima Beach, where you can wonderfully cool off on hot days.

Tradition and art in Olimpi

Only four kilometres away from Mesta is the mastic village of Olimpi (also spelled Olympoi). Just like in Mesta, the medieval alleys are traffic-calmed, so you can peacefully stroll through this pretty village.

A special highlight in Olimpi are the beautiful murals that have been added to ruined houses and empty buildings as decoration. They depict typical everyday scenes in the mastichochoria and are hugely popular photo motifs.

In the village square of Olimpi, the old fortified tower (pyrgi), which is typical of these mastic villages, is still well preserved. Under the shade of the trees, several restaurants offer delicious lunch snacks.

#6 The Olimpis Cave

Not far from the mastic village of Olimpi is the stalactite cave of the same name, which was discovered by researchers in 1985. You walk through a large hall down to the entrance of the Olimpis Cave. Even though the main cave is quite small at just 30×30 metres, the formations of stalagmites and stalactites are nothing short of spectacular.

A particular highlight is a hole in the ceiling, which lets natural light into the cave. Depending on the season, a magical light show takes place inside the Olimpis Cave between 12 noon and 3 pm.

#7 Stroll through the ghost village of Anavatos

This medieval village is impressively enthroned at an altitude of 400 metres, right on the top of a mighty rocky outcrop. Anavatos was built during Byzantine times and was inhabited right up until the 19th century. However, a devastating earthquake around 1881 destroyed the “Mystras of the Aegean”, and it was completely abandoned by its inhabitants in the years that followed.

Today you will find a ghost village, where the fortress at the very highest point is still fairly well preserved. Walking through the haunted, empty alleys of Anavatos is like stepping back in time, and some of the stone houses and churches are still in good condition. At the northern entrance to the village, there is a tavern that opens its doors to visitors during the summer months.

#8 Visit to Nea Moni Monastery

In the centre of the island lies one of the most important monasteries in the entire Aegean. Nea Moni (“new monastery”) dates back to the 11th century, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is famous for its impressive golden wall mosaics. It was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary and is idyllically nestled in a lush green landscape.

The Byzantine monastery complex consists of several buildings and rooms. The centrepiece is the main church (Katholikon) and the monks’ dining room, which is also decorated with magnificent mosaics. A small museum displays historical finds from the monastery and grants admission to the dining room (approx. 4 €).

#9 Treasures in the north of Chios

Lush green coniferous forests, mighty mountain massifs, and lonely, sweeping expanses await you in the north of Chios. Up here, the island is at its most pristine and remains almost completely untouched by tourism. There are some incredibly idyllic places to discover where you can truly relax.

The Monastery of Agia Markella

In the northwest of the island, right on the coast, lies the monastery complex of Agia Markella and the beach of the same name. When exploring the north of Chios, it is well worth taking a short detour to this quiet bay.

The local tavern of the same name serves excellent food right by the sea, and the dark pebble beach is usually very quiet, making it the perfect spot to cool off. Agia Markella is the patron saint of the island of Chios, and a massive festival is celebrated here every year on 22 July for the patron saint’s day. It is an incredibly important place of pilgrimage.

Garden of Eden at Agia Gala

In the far north of the island, you should definitely pay a visit to the mountain village of Agia Gala (“Holy Milk”). Right at the entrance to the village, a paved path leads down into a cool, shaded forest. This is where you will find the cosy café Polychoros Agio Galas.

The lovely owners, Anastasia and Dimitri, have set up a magical oasis here, serving refreshing drinks and delicious Greek meze. The water is tapped fresh straight from the spring. Right next door, a children’s playground offers plenty of space for the little ones to romp around.

In addition to the rock church of Panagia Agiogaloussaina, a special highlight is the stalactite cave located just below the church. For a small entrance fee, you can head inside and marvel at the curious geological formations.

Finds inside the cave indicate that it was already inhabited back in the Neolithic Age. It is widely believed that the very first settlement on the island of Chios took place right here. Agia Gala is an absolute must-see on your journey of discovery across Chios.

The medieval village of Volissos

To the northwest of Chios lies the medieval village of Volissos. Pastel-coloured stone houses with bright, colourful shutters are lined up picturesquely along a hill. At the very top sit the remains of a mighty Genoese fortress dating back to the 15th century. It is a fantastic place to visit if you are on your way to Agia Markella or Agia Gala.

Volissos is widely considered a possible birthplace of Homer. According to Herodotus, the most famous epic poet of antiquity is said to have lived and worked right here. Today, Volissos and its 300 inhabitants offer a wonderfully tranquil retreat for the Chiotes. In the village square, you will find a handful of taverns and cafes perfect for lingering.

The pretty harbour town of Lagkada

In the northeast of the island lies the coastal town of Lagkada (also spelled Lagada), which boasts a beautiful waterfront promenade and countless restaurants and cafés. We made a short stopover here on our tour down from the north and re-energised at one of the lovely local fish taverns.

From Lagada, you can take an excursion boat over to neighbouring Inousses Island. The crossing takes about 20 minutes and costs €25 (round trip). You can find more information about this here: Beautiful tours on Chios

Just south of Lagada, you will find another true gem of Chios. The crisp white Chapel of Agios Isidoros is picturesquely located on a small headland stretching into the sea and is a hugely popular photo motif. Right next door on the beach of the same name, the Oz Bay beach bar is the perfect spot to enjoy a cold drink.

#10 Trip to the Mastic Museum

If you leave Chios without having tasted mastic in any shape or form, you haven’t truly experienced the peculiar, unique taste of the island. The Tears of Chios, as the resin of the mastic tree is known, can be bought almost everywhere on the island.

Whether as chewing gum, liqueur, chocolate, or in its purest form as dried resin, the taste might take a little getting used to. However, mastic is widely said to help with all kinds of health ailments, particularly stomach problems.

For the very best insight into the history and production of mastic, as well as the deep-rooted traditions associated with it on Chios, head straight to the Mastic Museum near Pyrgi. For us personally, it is one of the most modern and informative museums we have ever visited.

Unfortunately, popping in just one hour before closing time was far too short for us. It is definitely best to set aside at least two hours to properly explore the entire exhibition.

Attached to the exhibition is a lovely museum café, which offers a beautiful view of the mastic trees in the outdoor area, as well as a small shop selling all sorts of mastic products.

More Chios travel tips for your holiday

Beautiful guided tours on Chios

Excursion to the island of Inousses

During your holiday on Chios, a trip over to the island of Inousses is incredibly worthwhile. This tiny island, with its 800 inhabitants, is about 20 minutes away from Chios and is actually one of the richest municipalities in Greece. Many wealthy shipping families have settled here over the years, and the main town will easily win you over with its wonderfully picturesque houses.

Tourism on the island is hardly developed at all. However, they have adapted perfectly to welcome day-trippers. Several beautiful beach bays are within easy walking distance of the harbour, and in the main town, you will find a great selection of cafes and taverns. The excursion boats depart from either Chios Town or the harbour town of Lagkada, and a crossing costs around €25.

→ More information is available directly from the tour operator: SunriseTours

Through GetYourGuide, you can easily book tours and excursions offered by local operators in Chios. Just click on the GetYourGuide* link below for all the details, including availability and tour prices:

➲ To the guided tours on site*

Restaurant recommendation on Chios

To Asteri, Avgonima

Not far from the monastery of Nea Moni lies the sleepy mountain village of Avgonima. We almost drove straight past the place, had someone not highly recommended the tavern To Asteri to us. Bullseye, we would say! Located right on the outskirts of the village, this restaurant is a true hidden gem—wonderfully cosy and idyllic.

From the shaded terrace, you can enjoy a truly magnificent sea view. The Greek bites are absolutely delicious, as they still cook everything traditionally and fresh to order! We found the vegetable balls and the chickpea stew to be particularly mouth-watering. Full and completely satisfied, we could have happily sat there for hours.

Accommodation on the island of Chios

So far, Chios has hardly popped up on the radar for international tourism. Because of this, you won’t find any massive hotel complexes here. Nevertheless, the locals are incredibly happy to welcome every single visitor who wants to explore their island. Tourism here is developing slowly and sustainably. Nowadays, you can find some beautiful family hotels and boutique apartments on Chios via Booking.com*:

➲ To beautiful hotels on the island*

Most of the accommodations are clustered around Chios Town and just below the airport at Karfas. However, it is highly recommended to spend a few nights in one of the picturesque mastic villages in the west of the island. Pyrgi, Mesta, Olimpi, and Kalamoti are easily among the most authentic places in all of Greece. It’s an experience of a very special kind!

→ On Booking.com* you will find a great selection of accommodation on Chios, and you can easily check prices here:

Here we stayed on Chios

Lida Mairy Suites, Mesta

We can wholeheartedly recommend Lida Mairy Suites in the beautiful mastic village of Mesta. The owners have carefully converted various holiday apartments and suites within Mesta and, exactly as the name suggests, furnished them in a wonderfully traditional way.

We felt incredibly comfortable at Lida Mairy Suites and honestly can’t think of a better place to stay. The hosts are super friendly and are always ready to give you the very best tips for exploring the region. You can easily book the apartments on Booking.com*:

➲ Book Lida Mairy Suites*

Getting around Chios

Do I need a rental car in Chios?

We strongly recommend that you rent a car on Chios for the duration of your stay. Chios is the fifth largest Greek island, and the distances between places should certainly not be underestimated. Driving from Chios Town in the east to the mastic village of Mesta in the west takes about 45 minutes. The heartland is very mountainous, meaning you would hardly make any progress on a scooter.

→ On the Discover Cars* portal, you can easily search for suitable vehicles for Chios, check availability, and compare prices:

➲ Book your rental car here*

Car rental stations for Avis, Hertz, and Budget can be found right at Chios Airport. Down at the port in Chios Town, there are numerous local car rental companies available. It’s always a good idea to check Google reviews to find the best local provider. Your host will also certainly be happy to help you find a suitable car.

Getting around Chios by bus

You also have the option of travelling around Chios by bus. The KTEL Chios bus association operates both city buses and intercity routes. Because of the long distances between some villages, certain buses only run 2-3 times a day (typically early morning, noon, and evening). A trip from Chios Town all the way to Mesta costs about €4.50.

Current timetables can be found at Chios City Bus and chioslife.

How to get to the island of Chios

You can get to Chios either by ferry or by plane. There are currently no direct international flights to Chios, meaning you have to make a stopover in Athens. Small planes connect the island to the capital almost daily. Chios Airport “Omiros” (JKH) is located about three kilometres south of the capital. You can quickly search for suitable flights to Chios on Skyscanner*:

➲ To cheap flights to the island*

Ferry connections to Chios

Chios is served almost daily from Piraeus via Samos. On some days, there are even two ferries running to the island. Alternatively, you can fly directly to Samos and then simply catch the ferry over to Chios.

You can also reach Chios from the northern Greek port of Kavala. At least twice a week, ferries head to Chios via Limnos and Lesbos. The main ferry operators are Blue Star Ferries and Hellenic Seaways. You can easily search for all current ferry connections here:

➲ To the ferry search with Ferryhopper*

You can find even more travel tips and inspiration for the islands neighbouring Chios in our overview here: North Aegean

Chios Youtube Video

Impressions of the island can be found in this beautiful video by Robert Polasek:

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