Ikaria: The 11 most beautiful highlights and travel tips

»Ikaria is a world of its own!” the ferryman prophesied to us on the crossing to the island and could hardly help but smile at the unsuspecting German tourists. We didn’t think much of it and experienced our first surprise right after arrival.

»Ikaria is an island of timelessness and vitality. If we lived like the Icariots, we would live to be 100 years old.”

Completely abandoned, we stood at the Port of Agios Kirykos, the main town of Ikaria, and the idea of the dreamed of Greek idyll began to crumble. It was a Sunday in August and the three car rental companies had neither a rental car nor a scooter available. The taxi driver was fully booked for the next few hours.

Luckily, there was still a bus in the evening and so we made our way to Armenistis, 45 km away, where we arrived after a two-hour drive through the wild hinterland of Ikaria. Ikaria did not exactly welcome us with open arms. In the course of our stay, however, we left our everyday life behind us and got involved with the strange island!

We’ll tell you here what to expect on a trip to the island, including the sights of Ikaria that enchanted us in the end:

What makes Ikaria so special?

In Greek mythology, Ikaria is considered to be the Island of Icarus, the son of Daidalos. When father and son ascended to heaven with self-made wings made of feathers and wax, Icarus recklessly came too close to the sun, the wax melted, he fell into the sea and died. Daidalos named the hitherto nameless island near the crash site after his son.

Through the mighty Atheras Mountains with heights of up to 1,100 m, the island of Ikaria looks huge, but is only 40 km long from west to east. The mountain range divides Ikaria in half, with a barren cliff in the south and a fertile coastal plain in the north.

Ikaria is extremely scenic. Especially in spring, the island is a paradise for hikers. Due to freshwater springs, there is even lush vegetation with pine forests, fragrant wild herbs and flowers all year round. Ikaria has fantastic wide sandy beaches and secluded bays with crystal clear water.

Ikaria exudes the typical picture-book flair of the Greek islands in only a few places, as you might expect from the Cyclades. However, the rugged island has an unmistakable character and a wild beauty. In many places, centuries-old churches and rustic stone houses with slate roofs still stand.

On Ikaria there are lonely mountain villages that were almost isolated from the outside world until a few decades ago. The Ikariots are largely self-sufficient. They grow their own vegetables and excellent wine. Many locals reach a biblical age, so Ikaria also bears the name of the island of the 100-year-olds. (see #11).

Due to its eventful past, Ikaria is also known by many Hellenes as »The Red Island«. For years, the KKE (Communism party of Greece) has been the incumbent ruler and the island is literally in communist hands. A healthy socialism according to the principle – everyone is equal and everyone helps everyone where he can – is still lived today.

By the way, many tavern owners also do without tips. One waiter put it well during our stay: “This amount is for me, and this (the tip) is for the other people.” So the Ikariots usually give more than they take themselves, Greek hospitality can be experienced here in its purest form.

For some locals, excessive industrialization and tourism are a thorn in the side. The island airport is rarely used. There is a risk that the centuries-old traditions will be lost. It is understandable that Ikaria is not yet so touristically developed, but that is exactly what makes the island so appealing.

#1 Coastal town of Armenistis

Armenistis is a pretty little fishing village in the northwest of the island and at the same time forms the tourist center of Ikaria. There are numerous cafés, restaurants, bars and shops and several picturesque beaches in the area. Especially in the evening, the coastal town is perfect for marveling at the spectacular sunset in the Aegean Sea.

The taverns are open late in the evening and even if you arrive late, you will still be served a delicious dinner and a sip of house wine. Armenistis offers a wide range of accommodation, from simple apartments to luxury boutique hotels, there is something for everyone.

We spent almost a week in Armenistis and found the tranquil place perfect as a starting point to explore many corners of Ikaria. In the village itself, there are many taverns and cafés as well as interesting shops, e.g. Boutique Cheiropoiō, the pottery Kedroi Ceramics and the delicatessen shop Kipseli.

Livadi and Mesakti beaches

White sand beach and turquoise blue water – the two largest beaches of Ikaria would make it onto any postcard. Only two kilometers east of Armenistis are the bays of Livadi and Mesakti. Both are absolute dream beaches with fine sandy beaches, where most holidaymakers are drawn in summer.

Nevertheless, even in the high season, things are still quite manageable. Beach bars rent sun loungers and serve cool drinks and snacks. Surfers also get their money’s worth here. Especially when the north wind blows, the waves on site are meters high.

#2 Nas: Between temples and waterfalls

About 3.5 km west of Armenistis is the village of Nas with its family taverns and the beach of the same name, which is embedded in a rocky bay. Particularly striking is the mouth of the Chalares River, which forms a lake at the bottom of the beach. Next to it you will find the foundations of the ancient Temple Artemis Tavropolos.

The Chalares Canyon is one of the longest gorges in Ikaria. In midsummer, the riverbed is largely dried up and you can explore it a little. Upstream, the trail passes through bamboo and reeds and ends at a waterfall and several beautiful natural pools. You return to the village via the main road.

The surroundings of Nas attracts many wild campers and nudists, especially in the high season, who refresh themselves in the sea. At the riverbed there is one tent after the other. However, caution is advised in high waves, as people drown again and again at Nas Beach due to the dangerous currents.

In the evening, it is worth stopping at one of the rustic taverns directly above the coast. We ate excellent Greek food in Thea’s restaurant, especially the mezedes are a treat. And it’s no longer a secret that the sunset from Nas is one of the most beautiful on the island!

#3 Karkinagri in the southwest of Ikaria

In the far southwest of Ikaria lies the lonely place Karkinagri. Just a few years ago, it was almost completely isolated from the outside world and could only be reached by boat. Meanwhile, a partially paved road leads from the north coast to the small village. The white houses nestle picturesquely against the cliffs.

The village of silence of Ikaria lives up to its name. Only 300 inhabitants live here permanently and even in the high season you will only meet a few Greeks who refresh themselves in the crystal clear sea.

There is no real beach, but huge, smoothly polished rocks that are a little reminiscent of Sarakiniko on Milos, where the children of the village play and make their way into the sea. Walk a little through the idyllic place, the seclusion lets you relax wonderfully.

#4 Vrakades and Kouniadi

On the way back from Karkinagri to Armenistis, it is worth taking a detour to the rustic mountain villages of Vrakades and Kouniadi with their traditional stone houses. We didn’t meet any other holidaymakers up here in August and you feel like you’ve been transported back to times long past. There is a very nice two-hour circular route (about 6.5 km) from Vrakades to the neighboring village of Kouniadi.

The paved road leads below the mountain and in the village of Kouniadi it goes up to the beautiful Church of Agios Alexandros with its two bell towers. From up here you can enjoy a fantastic view over the Aegean Sea. From now on, the path leads downhill again, past an old chapel and back to Vrakades.

In the upper part of the village you will still find an old pirate retreat of Ikaria – the ruins of a house built into a huge boulder. Ikaria was often the target of pirate raids in the Middle Ages, as no one felt responsible for the island. Even the Ottomans left Ikaria largely untouched.

The inhabitants protected themselves for centuries by building partly windowless houses in and under rocks and thus camouflaged themselves ideally from potential attackers. These bizarre hiding places are spread all over the island, but only a few are still intact or can be found at all.

The Greek folk hero and famous composer Mikis Theodorakis was exiled to Ikaria in 1947 as a politically persecuted person. His stone house and a museum can be visited today in the village of Vrakades. Theodorakis died in 2021 at the age of 96. Did Ikaria have an influence as a Blue Zone?

#5 Christos Raches: A Special Place

“The village that never sleeps!” Almost every Greek knows this curious place. The picturesque mountain village of Christos Raches is located about 6 km above Armenistis and consists of several districts. The Asterix Village has become famous for its special shop opening hours.

At the entrance to the village you will find large archways made of menhirs. You immediately feel transported to another time. Nobody takes the time seriously here, the inhabitants of Raches live according to the sun, so to speak. In season, the shops open from 10 a.m. until the afternoon, then a siesta is taken and the doors open again around 8 p.m.

Especially around lunchtime it gets busy in the small village and you can drink a frappé comfortably on the pretty village square. Along the picturesque alleys and the main square you will find many cafes and taverns, clothing stores and shops where it is worth stopping off, like Sofrano and P & U Kastanias.

In the evening, Raches really comes to life, then the platia is full of chairs and the locals meet for dinner, play and chat. Greek music is playing in the background, there is plenty of dancing and celebrating. A unique spectacle that you should not miss during your stay in Ikaria.

#6 Theoskepasti Rock Church

In the center of Ikaria, about 500 m above sea level, near the village of Pigi, you will find an Ikaria attraction of a special kind. The Theoskepasti Rock Church was built under a huge monolith to protect against pirate attacks and it looks like it’s from another planet.

You can enter the small chapel with the mighty rock roof, next to a few icons you will find a stone altar and other relics. Light a candle and enjoy the silence in this magical place. For us an absolute highlight on Ikaria!

Directly at the entrance to the cave-chapel is also the former monastery of Theoktistis with an idyllic courtyard and an exhibition room. Here, a friendly family sells their own organic products (including nut liqueur and St. John’s wort oil) and prepares homemade loukoumades with honey and cinnamon.

Afterwards, it is worth visiting the only 5 minutes away Karimalis Winery & Farmhouse. Giorgos and Eleni have restored the 500-year-old building with great attention to detail and established an idyllic ecofarm on Ikaria. In addition to wine tours and cooking classes, you can also have a romantic dinner here.

#7 Walk through Evdilos

In the centre of the north coast is the Coastal town of Evdilos. Together with the surrounding villages, the village of 500 inhabitants forms the second largest municipality on Ikaria after Agios Kirykos. Many locals come here for their weekly bulk shopping and so you can learn news from the other parts of the island.

In one of the many cafés and taverns (Our tip: Kozi Blu) above the waterfront promenade you can relax and watch the busy ferry traffic at the harbour. After all, Evdilos is considered an important transport hub for ferry connections from Ikaria to the north via the islands of the North Aegean to Kavala and to the east via the Cyclades to Athens.

From the harbour you can enjoy a great view of the waterfront of Evdilos. For history buffs, it is worth visiting the archaeological site of Oenoe. Until Byzantine times, the capital of Ikaria was located here. The Agia Irini Church, built on the foundations of a temple of Dionysus, is home to a museum worth seeing.

#8 Seychelles Beach: Ikaria’s dream beach

You can’t imagine a beach more exotic. At Seychelles Beach in the south of Ikaria, the name says it all, and so it is one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece. The water shimmers in milky turquoise blue, the pebble beach and the bizarre rock formations of the bay complete the backdrop. A touch of the Caribbean!

There are two ways to get to the Seychelles Beach. A steep trail leads you from the parking lot above directly down to the bay. The path is full of scree and sturdy shoes are recommended.

If you are not so confident on foot, we recommend a tour boat in the Port of Magganitis. The crossing with the water taxi is entertaining and leads along rugged cliffs and wild nature. In 2025 the crossing (round trip) costs €10 per person.

Unfortunately, the small beach section of Seychelles Beach is completely overcrowded in the high season and you will hardly find a free place to swim. If you stop by Ikaria in spring or autumn, you can be sure of more peace and quiet. As an alternative swimming spot, you can use the Firodi Beach.

#9 Magganitis: Picture-book village of Ikaria

West of Seychelles Beach you come to the small picture-book village Magganitis (also Manganitis). Here, white houses with blue shutters and red roofs crowd the cliffs, and in the middle of the village sits the magnificent church of Saint Nicholas. The pretty town with its 150 inhabitants is not overcrowded even in summer.

There is a small kafenion along the main road and two taverns at the bottom of the harbour that serve the boat tourists from Seychelles Beach. Stroll a little through the alleys, between large granite rocks, fig and olive trees you will experience a wonderful island idyll here.

#10 Hot Springs on Ikaria

An absolute blessing are the hot Thermal Springs on Ikaria, which flow out in several places near the sea. These are naturally radioactive sources that are said to have a soothing effect on a wide variety of physical ailments. The Lefkada Springs are located in the south of Ikaria, two kilometers west of the port city of Agios Kirykos and the Therma Springs a little northeast of it.

Thermal Springs of Lefkada

Before a sharp right turn, a sign shows you »Lefkada Hot Thermal Springs« down the path to the sea. Once at the bottom, you will have to climb over some rocks and boulders until you reach the stone-lined area of the Hot Springs.

The stones turn reddish at the edges and the water is boiling hot in places! It is recommended to enter on the left side over rocks, some of which are sharp-edged and bathing shoes are an advantage.

A bath in the thermal water is super relaxing and is said to help with various skin and joint ailments. Be careful with light-colored swimwear and costume jewelry, these turn slightly reddish due to the high mineral content. After 20 minutes, you should finish the natural spa due to the radioactive content.

Thermal Springs of Therma

From Lefkada you can walk about two kilometers to the natural Spa village of Therma. Therma is known throughout Greece for its Radon Thermal Bath. On the way there, you will pass the blue and white church of Ekklisía Analípseos, which is picturesquely perched above the sea and framed by some turquoise bays.

The village east of Agios Kirykos looks a bit run-down due to the many dilapidated buildings. In the middle of the village you will find the bathhouse Apollon Municipal Thermal Spa and at the end of the waterfront there is another bathing establishment (Spilia Spa), which is fed by thermal water.

There are some taverns on the beach where you can eat well and end the evening comfortably. In the summer season, there are also regular low-cost shuttle boats from Therma to Agios Kirykos and vice versa.

#11 Blue Zone Ikaria: Island of the 100-year-olds

Longevity is fascinating and there are some regions in the world where people live well over 100 years and in good physical and mental condition. These regions are called Blue Zones and for years, researchers have been trying to find out the causes of the longevity of local people.

In addition to Loma Linda in California, Sardinia in Italy, Okinawa in Japan and Nicoya in Costa Rica, Ikaria in Greece is also a Blue Zone — a place where people seem to have forgotten how to die. Fascinated by this fact, we went to the cemeteries of Ikaria and were amazed at how many over centenarians we actually found.

And if you spend some time on Ikaria, driving through deserted mountain regions and meeting old farmers taking a nap under olive trees at lunchtime, you might be able to guess why the people here get so old.

The Blue Zones Project Journalist Dan Buettner (New York Times, among others) has defined nine principles through research at all five locations that could be decisive for a long life. Here is a brief insight into the Blue Zone Ikaria:

The 9 rules of the Blue Zones

1. Relaxation and stress-reduced living
2. Having a Purpose in Life
3. Lots of vegetables, little meat
4. A glass of wine with friends every day
5. Time for family and friends (social community)
6. Eat consciously until you are 80% full
7. Regular and natural exercise
8. Surrounded by positive people
9. Belonging to a religious community

In Ikaria, the clocks tick more slowly, we noticed that quickly. The people are relaxed, none of the locals seemed rushed or stressed. You take your time, sit comfortably in the café for lunch. Many older people play tavli and drink fresh wild herbal tea from the island. During the siesta, people often take an afternoon nap, in the evening they meet in community, sing and dance exuberantly with a glass of wine.

»The magic of Ikaria is only discovered at second glance«

For us, Ikaria had something magical about it, which only revealed itself at second glance. Give the island time to cast a spell over you, let yourself be carried away by the initially somewhat reserved but lovable and hospitable people. In the evening, visit a tavern in one of the mountain villages, listen to the sounds of the music, and taste the delicious Icarian dishes.

On a drive through the mountains you will experience the wild side of Ikaria, untamed nature, green forests, solitude. Ikaria enchants with her stubbornness, the simple life. The local people are happy with only a small possession. They enjoy every day and are grateful for the moments in the community.

On many other Greek islands you can also find examples of the simple but good life. You can find out more about this in a great article about a couple from the island of Syros: Secrets for a Long Life

More Ikaria travel tips for your holiday

Restaurant recommendations on Ikaria

Sto Kambi Restaurant, Agios Dimitrios

We were several times in the Tavern Sto Kambi in the village of Agios Dimitrios. The rustic atmosphere is unique, you sit idyllically on wooden chairs under olive trees in the village square. In the evening, everything is wonderfully illuminated, children play next door and cats sneak along the tables to get a bite to eat.

The ambience enchanted us, the salads were wonderfully fresh and the goat in rosemary and lemon sauce… Oh delicious! Everything was just right, as they say.

Mikro Café, Armenistis

If your accommodation in Armenistis does not offer breakfast, then we can highly recommend the Micro Cafe. There are delicious sandwiches, yoghurt with fruit and honey, omelette and delicious coffee. You can watch the hustle and bustle in the village and make plans for the day. The staff were very friendly and the value for money was great!

Hotel tips on the island of Ikaria

Ikaria is probably one of the most pristine islands in Greece. You won’t find large hotel complexes here, most hotels have a rustic touch. Nevertheless, there are beautiful holiday homes, apartments and even some boutique hotels on the island. You can view suitable accommodations on Ikaria and book directly via Booking.com*:

➲ To beautiful accommodations on the island*

Our most recommended things to do in Ikaria Hotels & Studios

Christos Raches traditional house, Raches

Kyriakos rents tastefully furnished apartments in Raches Christos. Only from June to October, fair prices and quiet location.➲ Book Christos Raches House*

Erofili Beach Hotel, Armenistis

Solid 3-star hotel at the entrance to Armenistis. The rooms with sea views are recommended, and the town’s beach is only 200 metres away. Except July and August attractive prices.

➲ Book Erofili Bech Hotel*

Ikaria Utopia Studios, Evdilos

Simple, clean and functional studios with sea views about 5 min. outside of Evidlos. Ideal for those looking for peace and relaxation at an unbeatable price-performance ratio. Evening sound of the sea to fall asleep included.

➲ Book Ikaria Utopia Studios*

Toxotis Villas, Armenistis

Chic boutique hotel above the sea on the western outskirts of Armenistis. An oasis of peace with elegant suites and apartments, rich breakfast and a small pool. Unfortunately no direct beach access due to cliffs.

➲ Book Toxotis Villas*

On Booking.com* you can compare all accommodation on Ikaria on a map with each other:

Here we stayed on Ikaria

Pyrgos Traditional Village, Agios Kirykos

Well-kept complex with stone houses above the village. Traditional rooms with amazing views of the Aegean Sea, warm welcome by the hosts with house wine as a welcome gift and good breakfast in the garden with lemon and olive trees. For more information about the hotel, please contact our partner Booking.com*:

➲ Book Pyrgos Traditional Village*

Getting Around & Car Rental on Ikaria

Since the roads through the long ridge stretch forever and the buses only serve the main connections, a mobile vehicle is definitely recommended to explore Ikaria extensively on your own. For the high season in July and August, you should book a rental car a few months in advance, otherwise you’ll end up like us.

→ You can find more information on the topic on Ursula’s Ikaria blog: Car Rental Ikaria

Most accommodations will be happy to help you book a rental car. The island was also great to explore by quad bike and longer distances could also be covered. A great option in the high season when it hardly rains anymore.

We rented our quad at Dikiklo motor bike in Armenistis and were very satisfied. Recommended providers in Agios Kirikos are: ICARIAN WAY Car & Motor rental and Glaros Dimitrios Rent a Car. Here, too, it is advisable to reserve in advance if necessary.

How to get to the island of Ikaria

Since 1995, there has been a small national airport in the far east of Ikaria near the town of Faros. There are currently domestic flights from Athens and Thessaloniki to Ikaria. Alternatively, it is worth taking a direct flight to Samos. From here, the fast catamarans of Dodekanisos Seaways take you to Ikaria within 1.5 hours. You should definitely organize a transfer from the airport to the accommodation in advance. We use the Skyscanner* portal to search for flights:

➲ To cheap flights to Samos*

By ferry to Ikaria

You can also reach the island very easily by ferry. In the south, the ferries dock at the port of Agios Kirykos, including the catamarans of the Dodekanisos Seaways. From the north, the big ferries, such as Blue Star Ferries from Syros and Mykonos, arrive at the ferry port of Evdilos. Here you can find the current ferry connections:

➲ To the ferry booking with Ferryhopper*

If you are travelling from Germany, it is also worth taking a Direct flight to Mykonos, Kos or Athens. From here we take a ferry to the island of Ikaria. Anyone interested in a Greece Island Hopping, can very easily reach the neighboring islands Samos and Fourni.

→ You can get more information about the islands of the North Aegean here: North Aegean

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