Paleochora is a charming small town with a village-like character in southwestern Crete that has long been considered a mecca for independent travelers. The town benefits from numerous loyal regulars who appreciate its family-friendly atmosphere and authentic way of life, far removed from the tourist-heavy north.
Paleochora is like a Gallic village: for years, it has bucked the usual trend of commercialization in Crete, so here you can still experience a piece of authentic Crete without the crowds.
Tom & Ella
Today, Paleochora is one of the fastest-growing towns in Crete. Newcomers include Germans, Austrians, and Swiss, as well as mainland Greeks. The region still offers a slice of authentic Crete that other parts of the island lost long ago.
In the quaint mountain villages, you’ll embark on a journey back in time, while the beaches around Paleochora invite you to enjoy a beach vacation without the hustle and bustle. But times are changing: the first large hotels are already in the planning stages, which is causing some discontent. We don’t know how much longer Paleochora will remain so laid-back. So it’s high time to finally visit the town before the area undergoes lasting changes.
In this post, we’ll share the most important tips for Paleochora and the surrounding area:
🏖️ Dream beaches & hidden bays
🍽️ Restaurants, tavernas & cafés
🏛️ Must-see highlights & ancient sites
🗺️ Worthwhile spots & insider tips
🚘 Practical info like rentals & parking
♾️ Lifetime access & updates
#1 Getting to Paleochora
Paleochora is located in the far southwest of Crete, far away from the tourist centers of the north. The town’s location on a narrow headland, surrounded by rugged mountain scenery, is beautiful, and even in summer, the many beaches aren’t overcrowded. However, Paleochora is truly extremely remote, which is why it’s best to reach it by rental car.
Traveling by Rental Car
The distance from Chania to Paleochora is about 75 kilometers, for which you should allow about 1.5 hours. The route first follows the well-maintained E75 national highway toward Kissamos. Then, turn onto the inland road toward Potamida, heading south. If you’re traveling from Heraklion to Paleochora, you should allow about 2.5 to 3 hours. It’s only worth it if you plan to spend several days in the region
On your drive to Paleochora, you can make a quick stop at the Agia Sophia Cave. From there, you can continue either through the small villages of Strovles and Sarakina or via the mountain village of Kandanos and the hamlet of Kalamos. The route offers truly scenic views, is paved throughout, but is winding and narrow in places, especially the last 30 kilometers.
If you want to explore southwestern Crete and travel from Elafonisi to Paleochora, you’ll unfortunately have to take a detour. Currently, there is no coastal road along the southwestern tip of Crete. Although Elafonisi is only about 15 kilometers from Paleochora, you’ll need to take the mountain road through Elos and the turnoff to Strovles to reach Paleochora.
You can find affordable car rental deals from Chania or Heraklion with our partner Discover Cars*:
➲ View offers on Discover Cars*
By Bus to Paleochora
Alternatively, you can take the bus to Paleochora with the KTEL Chania company. Intercity buses depart several times a day from the central bus station in Chania. The bus ride to Paleochora takes about two hours and costs around 8.50 euros per person. The buses also pass through Kandanos (transfer to Sougia possible) and stop at several smaller stations along the way south.
The Paleochora bus station (Stathmos KTEL Paleochora) is centrally located in town, just a few minutes’ walk from the main street and the beaches. Thanks to its convenient location, the bus is a practical alternative to a rental car if you only want to explore Paleochora itself.
→ You can find bus schedules to Paleochora
and ticket prices on the KTEL website: KTEL Chania
Parking in Paleochora
There are several parking options in Paleochora, most of which are free of charge. You can park at the eastern harbor quay, at the northern entrance to town, or along the western waterfront promenade. This is also where the wide sandy beach of Pachia Ammos is located, which has a large parking lot (Free Public Parking) situated a few minutes’ walk further south.
Even in high season, parking in Paleochora is generally not a problem. Only on weekends can it get a bit tighter near the beach when many locals come to Paleochora to treat themselves to a little break.
Distances to Paleochora:
› Chania – Paleochora: 75 km (1.5 hrs.)
› Rethymno – Paleochora: 135 km (2.5 hrs.)
› Heraklion – Paleochora: 180 km (3 hrs.)
› Sougia – Paleochora: 45 km (45 mins.)
› Elafonisi – Paleochora: 50 km (1 hr.)
#2 Stroll through Paleochora
Paleochora stretches impressively across a narrow peninsula down to the sea and is flanked by two beaches: the wide sandy beach of Pachia Ammos to the west and the pebble beach of Chalikia Beach to the east. The small town on the Libyan Sea (which translates to “old town” in English) is a great place to visit, even if you’re just driving from the mountains to the sea.
Once you reach the bottom, a sense of disillusionment sets in for some: Paleochora, with its over 2,000 inhabitants, is not an architectural masterpiece at first glance. The townscape is predominantly characterized by functional concrete buildings from the last few decades. Unfortunately, not much of Paleochora’s historic architecture remains, as it was severely damaged by earthquakes and armed conflicts over the past centuries.
💡 Radio Crete: Among others, the German expat Jörg Krüger has contributed to Paleochora’s fame. Driven by his love for the island and the Greek way of life, he moved there and has built a loyal following over the years through his radio station and online portal. He is also committed to animal welfare in Crete and covers topics in his reports that go beyond the mainstream tourist scene. His posts always have a humorous undertone and often revolve around “Siga Siga”, the Cretan motto for slowing down and enjoying life. Visit the website: Radio-Kreta
We can start our tour of Paleochora at either of the two promenades: either at Pachia Ammos Beach in the west or at Akti Ethnomartyron in the east. Here, there are numerous cafés and taverns where you can relax and unwind while enjoying the view of the sea. The promenade at Pachia Ammos is a bit more charming: several sculptures and statues adorn the walking path, and the beach itself is a real eye-catcher.
Old Town of Paleochora
We walk toward the town center and reach the truly tiny old town of Paleochora. Near the Synka Supermarket, you can take Strovlon-Paleochoras Street to reach Eleftheriou Venizelou Street, the southern part of which is closed to traffic in the evenings. That’s when the atmosphere here is particularly lively. Locals and travelers gather in the iconic kafenia and bars to chat in a cheerful atmosphere.
We turn right onto the main street and head toward the magnificent Evangelistria Church with its beautiful bell tower. The Orthodox church is the religious center of Paleochora and impresses with its ochre-yellow façade and striking bell tower. By the way, this part of town is closed to traffic in the evening. Then you can relax in the local bars and restaurants without being disturbed by through traffic.
Kastro Selino
Behind the church, a flight of stairs leads up to Kastro Selino in just five minutes. It was built by the Venetians between 1279 and 1282 on the orders of Duke Marino Gradonigo to respond to local uprisings and protect against pirate attacks. The nearly square fortress with two towers controlled both bays at the time and secured the sea routes to North Africa.
The fortress of Paleochora has a turbulent history. In 1332, the rebel Vardas Kallergis destroyed large parts of the castle. In 1334, the Venetians rebuilt the fortress, and a small settlement sprang up around it, considered the precursor to today’s Paleochora. In 1539, the Ottoman commander Barbarossa stormed the main gate, but the attack was repelled. In 1661, however, the Cretans surrendered, and the Kastro fell to the Ottomans.
Today, only a few foundation walls and remnants of the walls remain of the former fortress. Nevertheless, from here you can enjoy a magnificent view of Paleochora, the two beaches, and the Libyan Sea. The atmosphere in the evening is romantic, when the setting sun bathes Paleochora in golden light. And because the headland juts so far into the sea, it is a magical spot for watching the sunset.
- Kastro Selino opening hours: open all day | Free admission
Paleochora Harbor and Waterfront
From Kastro, we walk back down and head toward the harbor at the southern end of the peninsula. The rather oversized harbor and marina seem a bit out of place, as there are hardly any buildings nearby. Ferries depart from Paleochora to Sougia, Agia Roumeli (Samaria Gorge), and the island of Gavdos (see #4). When the ferries aren’t running, the colorful fishing boats chug out to sea, ensuring a fresh supply of fish for the taverns.
The route continues along the eastern Akti Ethnomartyron promenade back into town. Here you’ll find numerous taverns and cafés (our tip: Livikon Day to Night), which are perfect for a break with a view of the sea. Further north lies the small new town district, where you’ll find supermarkets, bakeries, and shops for daily necessities.
At the end of the promenade, you’ll reach the pebble beach of Chalikia, which is quieter and less crowded than Pachia Ammos. The Votsalo restaurant is right on the beach and has been a popular hangout for years. On the eastern edge of town is the Paleochora campground situated. While it may seem a bit nostalgic and dated, the friendly owner, the nature-oriented campsites under olive trees, and the direct seaside location more than make up for it.
→ Everything you need to know about camping in Crete can be found in this post: Camping in Greece
#3 Beaches near Paleochora
All around Paleochora, a string of gorgeous beaches of every kind stretches out: from gentle sandy beaches to wild pebble coves. If Pachia Ammos gets too crowded in the summer, you’ll find quiet alternatives just a few minutes’ drive outside of town. Below, we present our favorite beaches in the Paleochora area.
🗺️ 10 road trip routes with maps
🏖️ Beautiful beaches & swimming spots
🏛️ All top sights & attractions
🤫 Unpublished insider tips
🍽️ Accommodation, tavernas & cafés
Pachia Ammos Beach
Pachia Ammos Beach is the main beach of Paleochora and stretches along the entire western side of the peninsula. The wide sandy beach, with its golden-yellow sand and gentle slope into the water, is ideal for families with children. Numerous taverns, cafés, and beach bars line the palm-fringed promenade.
The beach is well-organized with lounge chair rentals, umbrellas, showers, and water sports facilities. The atmosphere is particularly lovely in the late afternoon, when the sun slowly sinks behind the mountains and bathes the beach in warm light. In July and August, this is the most popular beach in the area, as many Greeks come here with their children during the holidays.
Chalikia and Keratides Beach
To the east of Paleochora lies Chalikia Beach, which eventually merges into Keratides Beach. The coastline consists of a gray pebble beach and has a rugged, unspoiled character typical of the beaches on Crete’s south coast. The rugged beaches are separated by rocks and are less crowded than those on the west coast, making them a quieter alternative.
The crystal-clear water is ideal for snorkeling, especially in the east, where large boulders lie in the sea and form natural reefs. There are taverns along the beach only near the village. In the summer, the Pearl Cavo Bar serves refreshments. Alternatively, we recommend Taverna Vrysali, which is located about 100 m from the sea but stands out for its great atmosphere and good food.
Gialiskari Beach
Gialiskari Beach is an idyllic, gray pebble beach with an offshore reef, about six kilometers south of Paleochora. Two bays with crystal-clear water stretch around a headland. The western part consists of gray pebbles, while the eastern part consists of thick gray sand. During the high season, Anidri Kantina Gianiskari is located right on the beach, serving snacks and drinks. Access is via a narrow gravel road above the coast.
Paralia Volakas
Paralia Volakas (also known as Psilos Volakas) is located directly on the coastal road heading west, but captivates visitors with its beautifully curved bay featuring crystal-clear water and the famous diving rock. The small swimming cove is particularly popular with locals. A beach snack bar provides snacks and drinks on-site during the summer and offers a few sun loungers.
Grammeno Beach
Grammeno Beach (Paralia Grammenou) is located about five kilometers east of Paleochora near Kountouras. There, a dune-like beach landscape with an offshore peninsula awaits you. The wild atmosphere and sheltered location make the beach something truly special. A few taverns and cafés (Tip: Ammos Beach Bar) near the beach cater to your culinary needs.
Even for camping enthusiasts, Grammeno camping offers an affordable vacation option right by the sea. The golden sandy beach is easily accessible by car. Parking is available directly above the beach. Behind the coastline stretch the expansive vegetable plantations and greenhouses of Gialos and Kountouras.
✓ Full coverage & unlimited mileage included
✓ Free cancellation until 24h before pickup
✓ Best price guarantee via Discover Cars
Krios Beach
Krios Beach is a quiet beach at the end of the paved road west of Paleochora. It consists of several sections of gravel and is usually deserted even in the height of summer. Parking is available right on the beach. The simple “Krios Tavern” serves snacks and cold drinks and rents out lounge chairs for a reasonable 10 euros per pair. The beach is ideal for anyone seeking peace and seclusion.
Viena Beach
Anyone seeking even more peace and quiet should head to Viena Beach. It’s accessible via a roughly 45-minute donkey trail from Krios. The beach is framed by a bizarre rocky landscape, and the water shimmers here in the most beautiful colors. There’s heavenly tranquility—no cars, no vendors, nothing. Park at Krios Beach, then follow the E4 hiking trail for a short while and turn south after a few minutes.
→ Check out our favorite beaches in Crete in this post: Crete Beaches
#4 Trip to the island of Gavdos
From Paleochora, you can also head to Gavdos, the southernmost inhabited island in Europe. With a population of just 150, the Greek island of Gavdos lies about 40 kilometers south of Crete and offers an unspoiled charm that has been lost in many places. Among the highlights of Gavdos are the lighthouse (Gavdos Faros), the old village of Kastri, the southernmost point of Europe with its characteristic chair, and the beaches of Potamos and Sarakiniko.
The ferries to Gavdos depart daily from the port of Paleochora during the high season (June to September). The crossing takes about 2 to 2.5 hours from Crete and costs around €30 one way. It’s worth staying for a day or two to take a trip back in time at the quaint taverns and guesthouses. You can get more info about the island of Gavdos from our colleague David at gavdos-travelling.
#5 Things to See in the Area
The area around Paleochora has a lot to offer. In the mountainous hinterland, you can still experience the typical Greek way of life. You can also take a boat trip to the nearby coastal towns of Sougia or Agia Roumeli, which lie at the end of the Samaria Gorge. Hikes along the coast are particularly recommended, including on the E4, the European long-distance hiking trail. You’ll find even more excursion tips in our Crete travel guide.
Azogires & the 99 Holy Fathers
Nature lovers and history buffs can take a detour from Paleochora to the mountain village of Azogires, about eight kilometers away. In this fertile region, you can not only admire idyllic waterfalls and mountain springs under shady plane trees, but also follow in the historical footsteps of the 99 Holy Fathers (Agii Pateres).
They are said to have preached in the 12th century at the pretty monastery complex below the village. East of Azogires, amateur cavers explore the Grotto of the 99 Holy Fathers, an impressive stalactite cave with religious significance. The cave is freely accessible and a popular destination for short hikes. Afterward, you can enjoy a snack or Greek coffee at the traditional “To Kafenio Tou Azogire.”
Hike through the Anidri Gorge
From the village of Azogires, you can walk from the village of Anidri through the Anidri Gorge for about 2 to 3 kilometres to the beautiful Gialiskari or Anidri beaches. The trail is easily navigable with good footwear, except for a few difficult spots and some climbing sections.
The roughly 1.5-hour hike leads through a green, shady gorge with lush vegetation. After the hike, you can cool off at Gialiskari Beach and grab a bite to eat at the beach canteen. The return trip is either a strenuous uphill hike or by taxi (price negotiable). In 15 minutes, it takes you back to the village square of Anidri. There, you can enjoy typical Greek dishes at the Old School House tavern (Sto Scolio).
💡 E4 Long-Distance Hiking Trail in Crete: Paleochora is located directly on the legendary E4 long-distance hiking trail, which crosses the entire island from east to west. The section along the south coast is particularly spectacular, featuring wild gorges, secluded beaches, and breathtaking views of the Libyan Sea. For those who just want to hike a single stage, the route to Sougia (approx. 14 km) is one of the most beautiful day trips in the region. However, sure-footedness is a must. The return trip is then by ferry back to Paleochora. You can find a great review here: der-eskapist
Mountain Village of Kandanos
The mountain village of Kandanos is well worth an evening visit, as several traditional taverns (tip: To Mesostrato) treat hungry guests on the Platia to typical Greek cuisine. The village of 450 residents was completely destroyed by the German Wehrmacht during World War II, and nearly all of the villagers lost their lives. Memorial plaques at the memorial site commemorate the massacre and the village’s dark past.
Just outside Kandanos lies an ancient olive grove. One giant tree standing here is said to be 3,000 years old. Just a few meters behind the mighty Monumental Olive Tree of Ag. Georgios lies the Agia Anna Anisaraki Chapel, dating from 1462, where magnificent Byzantine murals can be admired. The path to the church and the ancient olive grove is signposted and can be reached in five minutes from the main road via a narrow farm road.
Coastal town of Sougia
For nature lovers, the neighboring village of Sougia, 45 minutes away, is particularly interesting. In Sougia, time seems to have stood still. The village of 140 residents only comes to life in the early morning and late afternoon, when hikers take the ferry to the Samaria Gorge or return from it.
The wide, gray beach, consisting of a mixture of gravel and sand, is lined with tamarisk trees and invites you to enjoy a relaxing beach vacation. Numerous taverns, both right by the sea and in the town center, cater to your culinary needs. From Sougia, you can also hike to the scenic Lissos Valley or take the ferry to the Samaria Gorge.
→ Read our dedicated article to find out what there is to explore in Western Crete
Hike through the Lissos Gorge
A hike through one of the most charming gorges in western Crete starts from Sougia. Park your vehicle in front of the harbor area west of Sougia and head into the Lissos Gorge. Your destination is the ancient site of Lissos, 2 kilometers away, with its beautiful swimming cove.
You should plan about 2.5 hours for the round trip. At the harbor, keep to the right; behind a rock, the hiking trail (yellow-black markings) leads into the lush green gorge. After about 15 minutes, you’ll reach an impressive overhanging rock face that could easily be found in Australia.
Shortly after, the trail leaves the gorge to the left and climbs quite steeply up to a sparse high plateau. At the end of the ridge, you’ll catch your first glimpse of the valley of the ancient city of Lissos. The short but steep descent is quite challenging. Once you reach the bottom, you’ll be greeted by a green oasis with carob trees, a rest area with a spring, and numerous historical relics.
In the valley of Lissos, in addition to the vaulted tombs, you’ll discover the Church of Agios Kyriakos with ancient frescoes, a fenced-in Temple of Asclepius with a mosaic floor, and a Roman theater. For a quick swim, continue down to the coast. Here you can cool off in the bay with its crystal-clear water. Taxi boats also dock here regularly to take tired hikers back to Sougia.
Agia Roumeli and Samaria Gorge
Agia Roumeli is a tiny village with no access road, situated directly on the Libyan Sea. It is only accessible by boat or on foot, making it one of the most secluded corners of Crete. Nevertheless, between May and October, it is visited daily by hundreds of tourists, as it lies at the exit of the famous Samaria Gorge and is thus the destination of the island’s most beautiful hike.
From Paleochora, it’s worth taking the trip to Agia Roumeli to get a glimpse of the Samaria Gorge without having to hike the entire trail. Outside of peak times, the Samaria Gorge can sometimes be hiked in the opposite direction of the main route. The ferries depart from Paleochora in the morning and bring you back around 5 p.m. This way, you can experience a short hiking adventure and then enjoy the relaxing return trip along the coast of Southern Crete.
→ For more information on the Samaria Gorge, see this post: Samaria Gorge
#6 Hotel Tips for Paleochora
Paleochora has retained its original character and therefore offers a limited but charming selection of accommodations. The range of hotels in Paleochora extends from small family-run guesthouses to cozy studios and comfortable beach hotels. Plans for larger hotel complexes are frequently discussed but consistently fail due to the tireless resistance of the locals. How long this will remain the case is anyone’s guess.
On hotel comparison sites, you’ll find a good selection of accommodations that are perfect for a relaxing stay in western Crete. Click on the links from Booking.com* to view prices and availability for accommodations in Paleochora:
Mediterranean Dream
Brand-new, tastefully furnished, and in an unbeatable location: The Mediterranean Dream is just a few minutes’ walk from the sandy beach of Pachia Ammos, with a bakery and supermarket right around the corner. The modern rooms and studios feature balconies, kitchenettes, and some offer sea views. The friendly staff is praised without exception in the reviews.
Pietra Di Sabbia Villas
Two new, fully equipped villas with private outdoor areas, a rooftop terrace, a BBQ grill, and a semi-private pool are located below Selino Kastro. Ample space for up to six people.
➲ Book Paleochora Beach Hotel*
AnDi’s Apartments
These new apartments are located near the old town (just two minutes from the bakery). Daily cleaning, excellent amenities, and helpful hosts.
Blue Horizon
This small aparthotel is located directly on Pachia Ammos Beach and serves an excellent breakfast on its terrace. The rooms are modernly furnished, and the upper floor offers a magnificent view of the sea.
#7 Restaurant Recommendations for Paleochora
Numerous taverns and cafés have set up shop along the long waterfront promenade. While you’re right by the sea here, the quality varies. The coziest spots are in the alleys of the pedestrian zone, where you can relax and unwind. Over a complimentary raki in the evening, you’ll strike up conversations with the locals—that’s exactly why we love Crete. 🙂
In general, the culinary offerings in Paleochora are diverse, and the value for money is excellent compared to other regions. You can find our personal recommendations for delicious coffee and really good food in Paleochora here:
Restaurants in Paleochora
Palm Tree Bar Café – A timeless restaurant right on the west beach with a view of the sea. Tasty, original cuisine with Mediterranean influences and a good wine list. Especially lovely at sunset.
Methexis – A solid restaurant at the southern end of the East Promenade with a terrace and ocean views. The friendly host family serves traditional Cretan dishes at reasonable prices. Known for fresh fish and seafood.
Votsalo – A small beach spot on the East Beach with a relaxed atmosphere. Great coffee and creative cocktails, as well as a varied breakfast selection. Our favorite for a relaxed start to the day.
Kafeneio Vinylio – A trendy kafeneio serving small snacks and a good selection of all kinds of drinks, from freddo coffee to cocktails. In the evening, small meze plates are served alongside the drinks. A popular hangout in the old town!
Zepyhros – A tasteful restaurant and beach bar on Pachia Ammos Beach. Creative Greek cuisine, friendly staff, and a relaxed atmosphere.
Olaya – This Asian-Greek restaurant is located in a cozy, green courtyard in the center of Paleochora. It offers interesting flavor combinations with outstanding aromas, making it a welcome change from classic Cretan cuisine.
More Crete info for your vacation
To ensure your trip to Paleochora and Western Crete is an unforgettable experience, we’ve compiled some helpful links for you below. Want to learn more about getting there, rental cars, weather, and accommodations in Crete? You’ll find everything at a glance in this post: Crete Travel Tips
→ You can find more useful articles and numerous Crete tips here:
- Crete Attractions – All Must-Sees in Crete
- Crete Highlights – Our 20 Most Beautiful Places
- Crete with Kids
- Crete Holiday Resorts
- Best Hotels in Crete
- Crete Holiday – Our Experiences
FAQ about Paleochora in Crete
Where is Paleochora in Crete?
Paleochora is located in the far southwest of Crete, about 75 kilometers from Chania. The town stretches across a narrow peninsula between two beaches and is surrounded by rugged mountain scenery.
Is Paleochora touristy or quiet?
Paleochora is significantly quieter than the major tourist centers in the north. The town has retained its original, village-like character and attracts mainly independent travelers and regular visitors.
Which beach in Paleochora is the most beautiful?
The western beach, Pachia Ammos, offers golden sand and shallow water, making it very family-friendly. The eastern beach, Keratides, is wilder with gravel and rocks. Grammeno Beach, located just outside the town, is particularly scenic.
Do you need a rental car for Paleochora?
Not for the town itself, but a rental car is highly recommended for exploring the surrounding area! The most beautiful beaches (Gialiskari, Grammeno, Krios), mountain villages, and hiking trails are only accessible by car.
How long should you stay in Paleochora?
One day is enough for the town itself. However, for the entire region, including hikes (Lissos, Anidri Gorge), beaches, and mountain villages, you should plan on at least three to four days. Thanks to the many beaches in the area, you can spend a wonderful two-week vacation here—far away from the hustle and bustle of Crete’s north coast.
Can you travel from Paleochora to Gavdos?
Yes, during the high season (June to September), ferries run several times a day from Paleochora to Gavdos, the southernmost inhabited island in Europe. The crossing takes about two to two and a half hours. In the off-season, the ferry to Gavdos usually runs only once a day.
Are there good restaurants in Paleochora?
Yes, along the waterfront promenade and in the pedestrian zone, there are numerous taverns and cafés that offer good value for money. Our recommendations: “Olaya Restaurant” in the town center and “Zephyros Beach Bar” on the promenade.
*Support our blog Greece-Moments
This post contains affiliate links marked with an asterisk (*). If you book or purchase something through one of these links, we receive a small commission. The price remains the same for you. This helps us continue to provide high-quality content for free. Did you enjoy this post and want to say thank you? Then simply buy us the next Greek coffee ☕️ Go to the coffee fund
Save this post on Pinterest too!
