We’d long wanted to visit the island of Odysseus, but for one reason or another, it just never quite worked out. Coincidence or not: The release of Christopher Nolan’s 2026 blockbuster film, “The Odyssey”, signalled the start of a long-awaited journey for us: a trip to Ithaca!
Ithaca is an island with a strong identity, and by the time you leave, you’ll feel the urge to return. Today, that probably won’t take 20 years, as it once did for Odysseus.
Tom & Ella
On Ithaca, you encounter the island’s most famous son at every turn—whether in the form of statues and busts, or in taverns, hotels, and souvenir shops that bear his name. For the adventurous traveler, the island of Ithaca has plenty to offer: from stunning bays and mystical caves to lush mountains and archaeological sites.
However, we were also startled by quite a few extreme contrasts. The main town, Vathy, has a jet-set vibe, and prices there rival those on Santorini and Milos. In the countryside, on the other hand, you’ll find simplicity and genuine hospitality. If you only stay on Ithaca for a day or two, you’ll miss out on the authentic experience.
Here, we’ll introduce you to our favorite spots and the best sights on Ithaca, which we explored during our week on the island. You’ll find out at the end of this post whether the island truly won us over.
🏖️ Dream beaches & hidden bays
🍽️ Restaurants, tavernas & cafés
🏛️ Must-see highlights & ancient sites
🗺️ Worthwhile spots & insider tips
🚘 Practical info like rentals & parking
♾️ Lifetime access & updates
#1 In the Footsteps of Odysseus
The island is inextricably linked to the Homeric hero Odysseus, the king of Ithaca—and that was true even before the movie “The Odyssey”. Homer’s ancient epic is over 2,700 years old and ranks among the most important works of world literature. It comprises 24 cantos and around 12,110 hexameter verses; it would take you a good 12 to 15 hours to read it. 🙂
Homer’s Odyssey, summarized briefly for you:
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The War of Troy
While Odysseus goes off to war, his wife, Penelope, and his son, Telemachus, wait for him in Ithaca. The Greeks and Trojans fight for ten years.
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The Trojan Horse
The Trojan Horse trick devised by Odysseus brings victory to the Greeks. However, the fall of Troy incurs the wrath of the gods.
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Odysseus at the Mercy of the Gods
Poseidon rages and sends Odysseus on a mystical journey, while Athena protects him. Odysseus wanders from island to island.
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Odysseus’s Jouney
For ten years, he faces trials involving mythical creatures such as the Cyclops Polyphemus, the sorceress Circe, the Sirens, Scylla and Charybdis, and the nymph Calypso.
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Arrival in Ithaca
Alone, without a ship or companions, Odysseus finally reaches his home island.
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The End of the Odyssey
Odysseus attempts to reclaim the throne of Ithaca. We won’t reveal here whether he succeeds!
The cunning Odysseus earned fame with the idea of the Trojan Horse, but at the same time brought a curse upon himself. Who knows—if the leader of the Greek army against Troy, King Agamemnon, had come up with the idea of the horse, history might be different today, and Ithaca might not be nearly as well known.
Based on Homer’s ancient epic, historians and archaeologists are attempting to pinpoint the individual stops along Odysseus’s odyssey. Much of this remains a mystery to this day; some islands have even been identified as being in Italy rather than Greece. Excavations have even taken place in North Africa, including on the Tunisian island of Djerba.
After the German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann discovered the ruins of Troy (in present-day Turkey) and the sensational finds at Mycenae (on the Peloponnese Peninsula) as the kingdom of Agamemnon, the search for Odysseus’s homeland really took off.
It is generally believed to be the modern-day island of Ithaca, but to this day there is no conclusive evidence. Several locations on Ithaca are considered potential sites for Odysseus’s palace (see #8). Some historians have even suggested that ancient Ithaca was located on the neighboring island of Kefalonia, though evidence for this is scarce. In 2025, however, ancient roof tiles bearing the inscription ΟΔΥCCEOC were discovered on Ithaca.
The myth surrounding the hero lives on, and following the release of the new U.S. movie, the current mayor of Ithaca is expecting an increase in visitors. Interestingly, not a single scene from the movie The Odyssey was filmed on Ithaca itself; instead, filming took place in Morocco, Iceland, Italy, Scotland, the U.S., and the Greek Peloponnese. Among other locations, scenes were filmed at the famous Voidokilia Bay and the Nestor Cave above it.
🎬 The Odyssey by Christopher Nolan: The ambitious director (Oppenheimer, Inception, Batman Trilogy) shot the film entirely on IMAX 70 mm film across six countries from February to August 2025. “The Odyssey” makes do with very few computer-generated effects. Ships and monsters were created as actual sets, including the Cyclops, which was built as a giant puppet. The budget totaled around $250 million, and the film grossed $264 million worldwide on its opening weekend. We saw it after our trip to Ithaca and were therefore very familiar with the story. The cinematic adaptation is impressive, and the plot is based on Homer’s original. Without prior knowledge of the ending in the palace, it would have been even more exciting for us personally.
#2 Vathy: Ithaca’s Beautiful Capital
Vathy lies at the end of Molos Bay, which resembles a fjord, and is the main town of Ithaca—or, as the Greeks say, Ithaki. Most of the island’s nearly 3,000 residents live in Vathy, and yet this coastal town feels more like a village—albeit one with all the amenities.
Just before entering Vathy, you can catch your first glimpse of the picture-perfect village of Ithaca from a hilltop. The white and pastel-colored houses with red-tiled roofs and colorful window and door shutters look like something out of a painting and are worth the trip to the island all on their own. Care has been taken to preserve the historic character of the village; there are hardly any architectural eyesores like those found on other Ionian islands.
The long waterfront promenade in Vathy is a lovely place to take a stroll at any time of day, and the many cafés and restaurants right by the sea are perfect for lingering. We especially enjoyed Bistro Soddis at Thanassis, where you can watch the bustling activity of the sailboats over a drink, both during the day and in the evening. Vathy’s natural harbor, with its tiny islet Lazareto, is a paradise for sailors, who make it a mandatory stop here on their way from Lefkada.
In early June, the atmosphere was very pleasant—it wasn’t too crowded, but there was plenty going on. As you stroll through the alleys of Vathy, just let yourself be carried along by the charm: a drink here, a snack there, a quick photo stop, and, time and again, charming shops to browse. Be sure to check out the shops Nausiká (unique souvenirs), Nostalgia (jewelry and art), and Vivian’s Chest (clothing)—you’re sure to find a great souvenir from Ithaca.
During the day in Vathy, you’ll run into some day-trippers from the island of Kefalonia, joined by independent travelers from all over the world. We had a spontaneous and extremely warm encounter with our readers Claudia and René in Vathy—who have been avid island-hoppers for years—and we spent some time eagerly exchanging tips for Ithaca and Kefalonia.
Thanks to its location, Vathy is an ideal place to stay—it offers everything from small studios to boutique hotels. You can compare and book hotels here*.
Generally speaking, on this island—which is only 96 km² in size—you’ll meet the same vacationers multiple times in different places within just a few days. There’s something cozy about that, and we already have fond memories of it from our time on Skopelos. Even a few Americans and Australians were wandering around the island. Apart from Mykonos, which other small Greek island can boast such a high level of appeal?
💡 G’Day in Ithaca: Ithaca has been drawing an international crowd for years. The reason goes back further than the hype surrounding Odysseus: Ithaca was one of the first Greek islands from which people emigrated to Australia. Starting in the 1850s, the gold rush in the state of Victoria drew people there. Melbourne became the hub—incidentally, one of our favorite cities in the world—where Ithacans founded their own association in 1916. And so we often heard an Australian “Good Day” on the island. Many return every summer, coinciding with Odysseus’s return.
After a coffee break, we’ll continue on to the old harbor, where you’ll find Vathy’s most popular photo spot: the bronze statue of Odysseus. The highlight is that it has two sides. On one side, the hero faces the sea—before the Trojan War—standing tall and full of pride. On the other side, you’ll see him facing the land, 20 years later, in a crouching posture. Day trips to the neighboring islands also depart from here, as do the Odysseas Sea Taxis, which take you to the beaches in the southeast.
A boat trip from Vathy is one of the most beautiful experiences on Ithaca. You can book the tour here*.
Otherwise, there’s also an Archaeological Museum in Vathy, though it’s undergoing renovations until 2027 and unfortunately has little of interest to offer at the moment. This makes a detour to the impressive Metropolitan Church just around the corner all the more worthwhile, or you can check out the Ithaca Maritime and Local History Museum, located about 250 meters further west. If you get hungry after sightseeing, head to Amarantos Bakery for a savory or sweet Greek treat.
Cave of the Nymphs (Marmarospilia)
Just under three kilometers west of Vathy, below the sparse ruins of the island’s old capital, Paleochora, lies the Cave of the Nymphs. It is associated with the legend of Odysseus, as the hero, after his 20-year absence, stored his belongings here with the help of the goddess Athena before setting out to reclaim his throne.
The cave, located just past the outskirts of Vathy, is signposted as “Nymphes Cave”. After a short hike, you’ll find yourself in front of an iron gate blocking the entrance. Since the padlock was open, we ventured a peek inside. There isn’t much to see, unless you come at the right time or have a flashlight with you.
At noon, the sun shines through a skylight in the cave ceiling—known as the “Entrance of the Gods”—into the mystical cave, illuminating a small altar. But please don’t climb down; it’s a good three meters deep, and the rope didn’t look very trustworthy. From the cave’s exit, you’ll have a magnificent view of Molos Bay and Dexia Beach (see #9).
#3 Hiking on Ithaca
Lush green hills above and sparkling turquoise-blue bays below. Hiking on Ithaca is fun and a feast for the senses. An extensive network of hiking trails crisscrosses the island, most of which are so-called “Geo-Treks” that were established as part of the creation of the Kefalonia-Ithaca Geopark. We set out on old donkey trails several times and enjoyed Ithaca’s impressive natural beauty.
Hike to the Rizes Cave
There are several unspoiled hiking destinations, especially below Vathy, since most of the southern half of Ithaca is uninhabited. A personal highlight was the hike to Rizes Cave, which is also linked to the legend of Odysseus.
From Vathy, you drive up to the quiet village of Perachori, which, unfortunately, offers no stops worth making other than a great view. About two kilometers past the village limits, Geotrail No. 45 begins at a signpost. From here, the trail zigzags uphill for about 400 meters, gaining a good 90 meters in elevation.
Actually, it’s almost impossible to miss the trail. Shortly after we set out, a Greek couple came toward us from above; they hadn’t been able to find the entrance to the cave. After a brief conversation with Damianos and Eleni, they followed us back up the trail and were overjoyed when, after about 15 minutes, we found the Swineherd’s Cave together.
According to legend, Eumaeus, Odysseus’s faithful swineherd, kept his animals here. He was the first person to visit Odysseus after twenty years—even before his wife Penelope. The cave entrance is inconspicuous and overgrown with a fig tree. Behind it, you enter a huge sinkhole.
The cave’s ceiling collapsed a very long time ago, allowing natural light to stream in from above, while water drips everywhere and moss hangs from the walls. A truly mystical place on Ithaca! Fans of mythology can also visit the Arethusa Spring; the tour starts just 300 meters past the starting point of the Rizes hike. You can park your rental car at a pavilion.
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It’s about 1.5 km downhill from the road to the fountain, near which Odysseus, disguised as a beggar, met the shepherd Eumaeus. Even today, spring water flows from the ancient-looking basin. A side path leads down to Pera Pigadi, a dreamy cove popular with sailors. Be sure to bring sturdy shoes, a sun hat, and some water.
Agia Panagia Spiliotissa
The paved road, which continues south toward the farming village of Marathia, eventually turns into a gravel road. Just before that, there’s a beautiful viewpoint near a small chapel. On an ATV quad-bike, you could ride all the way to Cape Mounda, the southeasternmost point of Ithaca, where the snow-white church of Agios Ioannis stands.
If you’re not tired of hiking, the hike to the Panagia Spiliotissa Church is well worth it. From the gravel road, a farm trail leads about 1.8 km to this beautiful cave church. The last few meters follow a donkey trail and involve a bit of scrambling. Even our five-year-old daughter managed it with no trouble.
After about 45 minutes, you’ll reach a special place: the church was built directly into a cave niche, as reflected in its name, “Mother of God of the Cave”. The gray rock walls and the whitewashed church create a striking contrast. Two chairs invite you to take a break, and the view stretches across the sea to Kefalonia. Along the trail, there were a few spiders at head height on the bushes, so it’s best to hike with a walking stick to swat them away.
#4 Katharon Monastery
From Vathy, you can easily explore the rest of the island in one or two days. The distance to Stavros in the north—the second-largest town on Ithaca—is only 15 km. A small rental car or even a scooter (recommendation: ZAMBELIS Rent a Scooter) is ideal for this.
After you’ve crossed the narrowest part of the island, the Isthmus of Aetos, two mountain roads lead north. The western route is the faster one and offers picturesque views of Kefalonia, while the eastern route takes you up into the mountains through the village of Anogi to Stavros. If you take the latter route, be sure to stop at the Katharon Monastery.
💡 Mount Aetos: This pointed hill lies at the narrowest point of the island, where northern and southern Ithaca converge. From there, you have an unobstructed view of the strait leading to Kefalonia and the port of Piso Aetos—and it is precisely this location that made it a candidate for the site of Odysseus’s palace. Archaeologists found bronze coins here bearing the head of Odysseus. Today, only remnants of the former rampart remain, a section of which is visible from the road. The ascent is steep, winds through dense underbrush, and is only worthwhile if you’re in good physical condition and wearing sturdy shoes. We didn’t make it all the way up during our visit.
The Iera Moni Katharon monastery is impressively situated at an elevation of 566 meters above sea level. For non-spiritual travelers, it’s worth visiting just for the view alone. From the bell tower, located just outside the monastery, you can look out over Molos Bay, Vathy, and the southern part of Ithaca. On days with good visibility, the view extends to the scattered, uninhabited Echinades archipelago—which Homer himself mentioned—and beyond that lies the mainland with the region around Messolonghi.
Anyone interested in culture and the Orthodox faith should visit Ithaca’s most important monastery. It was first mentioned in writing in 1696, though it is likely older. Although it is uninhabited today, it is lovingly cared for by a family from Anogi. The courtyard is lush with greenery and a place of tranquility; inside the monastery church, you can light a candle and make a wish.
The monastery’s name derives from the Greek verb “katharizo” (Greek for “to purify”). Shepherds from Ioannina, who had once fled to Ithaca to escape the Ottomans, wanted to burn down the wild undergrowth to clear pastureland for their livestock. After the fire, they found an icon of the Virgin Mary in the ashes. They then built a chapel on this spot, and later a monastery was established there.
Katharon is open daily from May through October until about an hour before sunset and is occasionally visited at lunchtime in the summer by tour buses from Kefalonia. The best time to visit is in the late afternoon, when the sun bathes the grounds in a golden light. Admission is free, though donations are appreciated, and a large church festival takes place here on September 8.
→ We’ll reveal all the highlights of the neighboring island of Kefalonia in this post: Kefalonia Sights
#5 Anogi and the Monoliths of Ithaca
Anogi lies on the slopes of Mount Neritos, Ithaca’s highest peak at 809 meters. Incidentally, the mountain is one of the few places on the island that Homer mentions by name when describing Odysseus’s homeland. Anogi is the oldest village on the island, and here you’re completely removed from the hustle and bustle of Vathy. Although a few stone houses have been renovated in recent years for those seeking a unique living experience, the village still lacks a real sense of community.
In the center of Anogi stands the 12th-century Church of the Dormition of the Mother of God, which was severely damaged in the 1953 earthquake. Fortunately, the murals are still preserved. During our visit, construction was in full swing next to the village church. The workers, who were happy to provide information, told us that a traditional guesthouse (Archontiko) complete with a café-bar will open in 2027.
Most visitors come to Anogi for its wild and romantic landscape, as the village is surrounded by several natural limestone formations in bizarre shapes that are a good 100 million years old. The most impressive of these formations is the Araklis Monolith, located about 200 meters outside the village. A well-maintained path leads from the parking lot through vineyards to the giant rock.
The name of the nearly nine-meter-tall, upright stone derives from Heracles, the hero with the lion’s skin and the strongest man in Greek mythology. For a long time, the monolith was mistakenly believed to be a Stone Age monument. However, it was formed naturally through the weathering and karstification of limestone. It is likely that legend and geology have become intertwined over the centuries.
In the area around Anogi, you’ll find other stone giants, some of which are larger but don’t tower quite as spectacularly. The monolith called Kavelaris (ΚΑΒΕΛΑΡΗΣ) is easy to find; a sign on the road to Stavros points the way to the perfectly round giant. The Ithaca Geopark Information Center, located in the former elementary school in Anogi, offers further information about the region. Alternatively, it’s also worth checking out kefaloniageopark.gr.
#6 A Break in Stavros
Ten minutes by car and a few switchbacks later, you’ll arrive in Stavros. Even as you approach, you’ll be greeted by a magnificent panorama of the vast green plateau and Afales Bay beyond. Stavros, with its 350 residents, has the typical charm of a rustic mountain village and stands in stark contrast to the glamorous and almost cosmopolitan Vathy in the south of Ithaca.
For many vacationers, Stavros is merely a stopover on the way to the Palace of Odysseus or the School of Homer. However, it’s well worth taking a stroll through Stavros from the Platia, home to the magnificent village church. Right next to the parking lot, in Hector Sykiotis Park, there is a bust of the hero Odysseus as well as an information kiosk where, in addition to plenty of information about the Odyssey, you can also see a model of the royal palace.
For a coffee break, be sure to visit the modern Kafenion To Kentro, where a friendly family serves all kinds of drinks and delicious pastries. While sipping a cool Freddo on the veranda, we watched the hustle and bustle on Stavros’s Platia, while at the next table, the older locals played a lively game of Tavli. If you’re feeling hungrier, check out tavern Delicious (home-style cooking at fair prices) or Rizes Restaurant (dishes with a unique twist).
If you appreciate peace and authenticity, an apartment in Stavros is just the thing for you. You can compare and book hotels here*.
As you walk along the main street, you’ll find even more taverns. Here and there are lovely photo opportunities, such as the bougainvillea climbing up the sometimes magnificent houses. At the end of the street is a private exhibition called “Throwing Light on Homeric Ithaca”, dedicated to the themes of Odysseus, about truth and myth, with plenty of information available in English.
Stavros Archaeological Museum
History buffs can also visit the Stavros Archaeological Museum, located about 800 m north of the town center. However, it is a very small museum, so don’t expect too much, and there is no parking in front of it at all. This is where the island’s most important artifact is located, though it is not easy to find in the exhibition hall.
We had to ask the friendly museum staff member, who showed us the fragment of a clay mask, which is just under 3 cm in size. The inscription “Dedicated to Odysseus” (ΕΥΧΗΝ ΟΔΥΣΣΕΙ) is visible on it, though only with a magnifying glass. More impressive are the remains of bronze tripod cauldrons found in the Loizos Cave on Polis Bay below Stavros. Interestingly, Homer even mentioned them in his work.
- Stavros Archaeological Museum Hours: Wed–Mon, 8:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m. | Admission: €5
If you’d like to take another dip in the sea, you can reach Polis Bay (Greek for “city”) in five minutes via a steep descent from Stavros. It bears this name because for a long time, the ancient capital of Ithaca was believed to be located there. In the hamlet’s harbor, fishing boats bob gently about, and a rustic canteen serves beachgoers on the white pebble beach typical of Ithaca.
At the northern end of Polis Beach once stood the Loizos Cave, which historians believe was a place of worship honoring the hero Odysseus. Unfortunately, the cave has since collapsed completely. However, archaeologists discovered several artifacts here that are now housed in the Stavros Museum, including a small fragment of a clay mask. By the way, we enjoyed a picturesque sunset above Polis Bay along the road to Vathy.
#7 Frikes and Kioni
From Stavros, our exploration tour continues to the northeast of Ithaca. There, we find the two coastal villages of Kioni and Frikes, each of which has a harbor and is regularly served by excursion boats from Lefkada and Kefalonia. Consequently, both villages are very popular. Kioni, in particular, is considered one of the most beautiful places on Ithaca and has even graced the cover of the well-known sailing guide “Greek Waters Pilot”.
A day trip to Ithaca from Kefalonia is well worth it, even for last-minute travelers. You can book the tour here*.
The bays around Kioni and Frikes are very popular with sailors, and numerous restaurants and cafés invite you to linger. Frikes is the quieter of the two towns and also much smaller. Essentially, Frikes consists only of the waterfront promenade and a few dozen houses behind it, located along the two access roads. We really enjoyed the atmosphere and had a wonderful lunch at Revithaki right by the sea—and, mind you, we were the only ones there in mid-June!
Kioni, on the other hand, is larger but has only 130 permanent residents; however, its population easily increases tenfold every summer. Quite a few Greeks from the mainland have their summer villas here, and the local apartment hotels are fully booked down to the last room during that time. The rows of pastel-colored houses nestle harmoniously around the turquoise-blue bay, while fishing boats bob about in the harbor—a true postcard scene from Ithaca!
Somehow, Kioni reminded us of Fiskardo on Kefalonia, because it’s similarly chic, similarly glamorous, and similarly expensive here. Yes, the restaurants in Kioni are definitely among the most expensive on the island, and not all of them offer quality to match the price. We can’t single out any one restaurant, but the rooftop terrace of the Spavento Bar is definitely worth a stop for a coffee break at reasonable prices.
And there’s one more thing that bothered us about Kioni: the parking situation. The municipal parking lot is a good 400 meters outside the town center. You’ll need to factor in the walk, and please don’t make the same mistake we did—don’t drive your car into or through Kioni. The main street is so narrow that maneuvering through it feels like running the gauntlet. The paved road ends anyway at the Theotokos sto Lotza Church above Plakoutses Beach.
While there are no hotels, there are several beautiful apartments and villas in Kioni with ocean views. You can compare and book hotels here*.
Swim Stop at Marmagkas Beach
After visiting Frikes and Kioni, you can head to Marmagkas Beach, one of our favorite beaches on Ithaca. Even in the summer, it’s a laid-back spot here, thanks in no small part to the difficult journey to get there. On the other hand, you’ll see all the more sailors here, thanks to the large bay’s sheltered location.
There are two ways to get to the beach, both of which are only for adventurers. The first route takes you from Frikes along the harbor and over a rutted gravel road (4WD only) for 3 km to the beach. The other route passes east of the village of Platrithias and then leads down a steep, unsecured concrete road (renovated in 2026) to Marmagkas Beach.
No matter which route you take, just before you arrive, you’ll be greeted by a dreamlike setting: in the turquoise-blue Marmagkas Bay lies the islet of Agios Nikolaos, with the church of the same name perched on it. Marmagkas Beach consists of colorful pebbles, some coarse, some fine. That doesn’t matter, though, because the water is crystal clear, and the shallow areas are perfect for snorkeling. Beach shoes are generally a good idea for Ithaca.
From late June through mid-September, the Kantina Marmagkas caters to the needs of beachgoers. The name “Kantina” is a bit misleading, as it’s actually a very good, family-run beach restaurant. The prices are fair, and the quality of the food is truly top-notch. By the way, in the northern part of Marmagkas lies the small brackish lake Alykes, the only wetland on Ithaca.
#8 Exogi and the School of Homer
The island’s most significant archaeological site, the Palace of Odysseus, is located in the northwest of Ithaca. This is the main draw for visitors, as the beaches here are virtually inaccessible—the coastline drops almost vertically into the sea as a limestone cliff from the green slopes. However, the traditional village of Exogi, located just 3 km from Stavros, attracts independent travelers as a day-trip destination.
The road winds its way up through a series of switchbacks to an elevation of about 350 meters; it’s very narrow with blind curves. You can park for free at the village church of Agia Marina, and from there you can explore the quiet little village, which has fewer than 40 residents in the winter. In the summer, however, some expatriates return to their hometown. We ran into some older gentlemen here wearing Australian caps and Sydney T-shirts, as well as Jajades who were Skyping with their grandchildren in Melbourne. 🙂
In recent years, the village has blossomed into a popular destination on Ithaca. This is mainly because the owner, Ioannis, has breathed new life into the place with his restaurant, Mezedopoleio Extraterrestrial. Greek classics and international dishes are served in an idyllic setting under a vine-covered pergola and on a lovingly decorated panoramic terrace. Kanelaki, the tavern’s adorable cat, is the icing on the cake.
Above the village, there are two more interesting viewpoints. The first is located 50 meters east of the cemetery, where Ioannis Papadopoulos—a native of Ithaca and millionaire, also known as John Papas—had two unusual tombs erected in the 1930s, one of which was in honor of his parents. Since Papadopoulos had no descendants, a large portion of his fortune was later donated to charitable causes, including the Red Cross.
The so-called Pyramids of Exogi are therefore not mystical domed tombs, but modern concrete structures. Nevertheless, from here you have a fantastic view of Afales Bay all the way to the neighboring island of Lefkada to the north. If you follow the road uphill from the cemetery, you’ll reach the former Pernarakia Monastery, which stands at an elevation of 500 meters.
From up here, you’ll enjoy an equally beautiful view of the entire northern part of Ithaca and far into the strait between Ithaca and Kefalonia. The freestanding bell tower of the Pernarakia Monastery is accessible, though it is completely unsecured. Especially at sunset, this is arguably the most romantic spot on Ithaca.
Palace of Odysseus
The archaeological site, also known as the School of Homer due to its connection to the ancient epic, lies directly below Exogi. Archaeological excavations are still being conducted here today. After years of debate over whether the ruins were indeed the royal palace of the wanderer, new discoveries were made in 2025. Ancient roof tiles bearing the inscription of Odysseus were uncovered.
You can reach King Odysseus’s palace by taking the turnoff from the Myrtia Restaurant and following the signs for “School of Homer” to the excavation site. The complex is picturesquely situated on a hillside, nestled among lush nature and countless olive trees. Please don’t expect a major tourist attraction like Olympia or Delphi here, or you’ll be disappointed. There are a few arrows indicating the direction to follow, but the paths are quite steep and informational signs are few and far between.
Today, you can see several graves that look like small pits, ruins of ancient houses, remnants of the Cyclopean wall, and a kind of tower (pyrgos) that is said to represent the palace’s core. To make sense of all this, you’ll need a bit of imagination and, above all, an interest in Greek mythology. We recommend that you first take a look at the palace model in the village square in Stavros and learn more at the “Throwing Light on Homeric Ithaca” exhibition hall.
We were particularly impressed by the massive natural stone staircase leading up to the palace tower. If current scholarship is to be believed, this is the staircase that Odysseus’s wife, Penelope, climbed up and down countless times to present herself to the many suitors who vied for the throne during his absence. Some of the olive trees are also ancient—perhaps the tree trunk on which Odysseus and Penelope’s bed once stood used to stand here?
- Odysseus’ Palace hours: open daily | Free admission
If you’d like to learn more about the history of the site, you can take a guided tour of the Palace of Odysseus (Greek: Anaktoro Odyssea). The friendly Adriana Eyzaguirre offers these tours and, through “Island Walks”, also shows history-loving travelers other sites on Ithaca. We happened to run into her before one of her tours and spontaneously exchanged some important information about the site. For more information, visit www.islandwalks.com.
#9 Beautiful Beaches on Ithaca
Ithaca is definitely not worth visiting for a pure beach vacation, as the island’s beaches have some unique characteristics. For one thing, all of Ithaca’s beaches are pebble beaches—mostly consisting of white pebbles about 1–3 cm in size—and there are no sandy beaches on the island. Second, almost all of the island’s beaches are unmanaged. This is a measure taken by the municipality to prevent the coastline from being overdeveloped. In return, Ithaca’s coves impress with their beautiful blue sea.
→ Discover the most beautiful beaches on Ithaca in this upcoming post: Ithaca Beaches
Below, we’ve compiled a selection of the most beautiful beaches on Ithaca:
Dexia: The beach is located just under a kilometer outside of Vathy and is truly a gem. We went swimming here twice; even though parking is a challenge (only along the road), the water is very clear, and the olive trees right by the sea provide shade. Incidentally, Dexia is considered to be the Homeric port of Phorkys—the place where Odysseus came ashore again after 20 years.
Gidaki: This beach is Ithaca’s answer to Fteri Beach on Kefalonia. Here, milky-blue waters meet gleaming white pebbles, with meter-high limestone cliffs rising behind them. You can only reach Gidaki Beach by boat or on foot. The hike to Gidaki takes about 25 minutes (1.5 km) from Skinos Beach. Unfortunately, the beach is privately owned, and parking spaces are scarce. Alternatively, you can set out from Minimata Beach, which is about 500 m away.
Our daughter, who was five at the time, handled the hike just fine, even though you have to climb a good 100 meters in elevation and then descend back down to the sea. In mid-June, around 11 a.m., there were only a few tour boats there, but according to locals, it’s a different story in high summer. Taxi boats run regularly to the beach from Vathy. If you’d like, you can even book trips to Gidaki online through our partner GetYourGuide*.
🗺️ Find tours in Ithaca
Sarakiniko: A picturesque, idyllic cove just a six-minute drive from Vathy. On the way there, you’ll pass the Church of Ag. Konstantinos Sta Kanellata. Two pebble beaches offer a refreshing escape in the summer. The western one is separated by a rocky outcrop and can only be reached on foot. The Leas Beach Bar serves drinks and snacks in an idyllic setting. Parking is available only along the access road.
Kaminia: This beach was our absolute favorite spot for swimming on Ithaca. Kaminia Beach may be narrow, but the Votsalo Beach Bar creates a great atmosphere. They serve really delicious and creative dishes there, along with a cold Mamos beer—what more could you want? Sun loungers are available starting at 15 € per pair. On weekends, the beach is popular with locals; half of Vathy seems to be there. There’s plenty of parking available behind the bar.
Aspros Gialos: Just past the isthmus, on the shore of the village of Agios Ioannis, there are several scattered pebble beaches that are among the few swimming spots on the west coast of Ithaca. The best known is Aspros Gialos Beach, which can be reached by a short hike down a picturesque natural stone staircase. There are rocks in the sea just off the beach; the water is crystal-clear, and snorkeling here is a real blast. Sun loungers are available starting at 10 € per pair, but there are neither showers nor a bar.
More Travel Tips for Ithaca
Longtime fans of Greece will quickly feel at home on Ithaca. Lush nature, scattered villages, numerous (pebble) beaches, and friendly people await you. Ithaca is also a paradise for explorers and hikers, as there are trails everywhere leading to hidden coves or ancient ruins. Those looking for parties and entertainment will find Ithaca boring. In the evening, you can sit in a cocktail bar in Vathy and look out over the bay—that’s about it.
→ More tips for the Island of Odysseus, as well as hotels and taverns will be available here soon: Ithaca Travel Tips
Helpful Links for Your Trip to Ithaca
Are you planning your trip to the island of Odysseus? Then check out the following links from our partners*, because Ithaca doesn’t have its own airport and you’ll always have to travel via Kefalonia or Patras—which is why it’s best to book your ferry, flight, and accommodations all at once:
- 🛏️ Accommodations on Ithaca: Find accommodations*
- 🚗 Your rental car for Ithaca: Find a rental car*
- ⛴️ Ferries to Ithaca: Book a ferry*
- ✈️ Flights to Kefalonia or Patras: Find a flight*
- ℹ️ Official website of Ithaca Greece: Official website
Our hotel recommendations for Ithaca
Ithaca offers a good, though limited, selection of accommodations, including small hotels, apartments, and villas. However, some of them seemed a bit dated. Even so, almost everything is fully booked in the summer, and even in the off-season, you should expect to pay around 100 euros per night. Most accommodations are located in Vathy and around Stavros. Click on the hotels to get more information from our partner Booking.com*.
- Oralia Apartments* in Vathy → This is where we stayed
- Perantzada Hotel 1811* in Vathy
- Theta Project* in Stavros
- Phileo Villas* in Exogi
🔍 Our final thoughts on Ithaca: We spent a week on the island of Odysseus—significantly longer than most vacationers, who often stay only two to three days. For us, that was just right, because it allowed us to discover spots that hardly anyone else visits. Ithaca is a true island gem, and we can well understand why Odysseus longed so much for his homeland—we’d feel the same way here, too. Thanks to its compact size, the island remains easy to navigate and is wonderful to explore on your own; the bright pebble beaches are a feast for the eyes—just don’t forget your water shoes! Vathy was a great starting point for us and really lovely in the evening, though we did have to get used to the jet-set vibe there at first. We were very impressed by how clean and well-maintained the entire island is, even on the unmanaged beaches. One downside is the cost of living, as accommodations and taverns are noticeably more expensive than elsewhere. The “Odyssey” movie is likely to drive prices up even further. If you visit by mid-June or starting in mid-September, you’ll hardly notice the hype. And honestly: We liked Ithaca better than Kefalonia, perhaps because of its manageable size and its moving history.
FAQ about Ithaca
Where is Ithaca?
Ithaca is located in the Ionian Sea right next to Kefalonia, separated only by a narrow strait. The island covers just under 96 km², and its main town is Vathy on the fjord-like Bay of Molos; there is no airport on the island.
Is Ithaca really the home of Odysseus?
This has not been proven to this day. Several sites on Ithaca—most notably the School of Homer near Exogi and Aetos Hill—are considered possible locations for his palace. However, ancient roof tiles found in 2025 bearing the inscription ΟΔΥCCEOC make the connection more likely.
Was Christopher Nolan’s film “The Odyssey” filmed on Ithaca?
No, not a single scene from Christopher Nolan’s film “The Odyssey” was shot on the island of Ithaca; it was filmed in Morocco, Iceland, Italy, Scotland, the U.S., and the Peloponnese in Greece.
How many days should you plan for Ithaca?
If you only stay for one or two days, you’ll miss out on the authentic experience of Ithaca. We took a whole week ourselves, and in hindsight, we found that to be ideal. If you’re planning to go island-hopping, you should set aside at least three to four days for Ithaca, followed by a week in Kefalonia and, if desired, another four to five days in Lefkada.
Is Ithaca a good choice for a beach vacation?
In our opinion, the island of Ithaca isn’t worth visiting for a beach vacation alone. All the beaches are pebbly rather than sandy and mostly unmanaged. However, coves like Dexia, Gidaki, and Kaminia delight visitors with their turquoise-blue, crystal-clear water.
How do you get to Ithaca?
The easiest way to reach Ithaca is from the neighboring island of Kefalonia. From Sami, take the ferry to Pisaetos. The crossing takes only about 20–30 minutes. This is the most common route, as Ithaca itself has no airport.
Should you stay in Vathy or in the north of Ithaca?
Vathy offers the widest selection of accommodations on Ithaca, but also has the highest prices. Frikes in the north is quieter, while Kioni has become just as commercialized as Fiskardo on Kefalonia. If you’re looking for an authentic place to stay, the village of Stavros on Ithaca is the right choice.
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