Spinalonga Island: Leprosy Island in Crete

Spinalonga, once a place of exile, today a tourist magnet. The small fortress island in the northeast of Crete is surrounded by a mystical aura. Despite the suffering and the many human fates associated with the place, it attracts crowds of tourists as if by itself.

»Spinalonga – the island of the forgotten has shaped the lives of many families in Crete for generations.«

The history of the islet, which is only 440 m long, is so eventful that a bestselling book has made this corner of Crete internationally famous. 100 years ago, the island served as a Leper colony of Crete, which meant lifelong banishment for many people, but more on that later.

In contrast to then, today every visitor may or must leave the island of Spinalonga Kalydon at the end of the day. In this article, we provide you with a lot of background information and the most important tips for your trip to Spinalonga:

#1 Getting to Spinalonga

📍 Google Maps Location

The How to get to Spinalonga can be done either by rental car or bus. The island of Spinalonga is located in the Gulf of Mirabello in the northeast of Crete, only 20 minutes from the coastal town of Agios Nikolaos. Less than a kilometre separates the fortified island from the fishing village of Plaka opposite, from where boats depart for Kalydon, as Spinalonga is actually called.

Coming from the A90 island motorway from Heraklion, take the exit Neapoli or Agios Nikolaos. Then it is another 15 km of country road through the idyllic hinterland (Neapoli – Kastelli – Fourni) or along the coast of the Golfes of Mirabello (Ag. Nikolaos – Elounda). If your own journey is too strenuous for you, you can book an excursion here: Spinalonga Tours

Distances to Spinalonga

› Chania – Spinalonga: 200 km (3 h)

› Rethymno – Spinalonga: 145 km (2 h)

› Heraklion – Spinalonga: 65 km (1 h)

› Ierapetra – Spinalonga: 45 km (1 h)

› Sitia – Spinalonga: 80 km (1.5 h)

Is it worth renting a car for Spinalonga?

Individualists who arrive with their own rental car have the advantage of being able to design the excursion according to their preferences. In high season, a visit to Spinalonga is already possible from 8:30 a.m. The first boats depart from Plaka Harbour shortly before, so you can explore Leprosy Island long before the hustle and bustle.

The distance to Spinalonga on Crete should not be underestimated. If you have your hotel in Chania has to drive about three hours (200 km) with the rental car. From Heraklion, the one-hour journey is more worthwhile. For a car hire for the trip to Spinalonga you can check our partner Discover Cars* in advance:

➲ To cheap car rental offers*

💡 Car rental in Crete: Crete is the largest island in Greece. Many of the approximately 500,000 inhabitants depend on the car for their daily commutes. The A90 island motorway connects the west with the east. Especially around Heraklion there is a lot of rush hour traffic during the week. You can find out what you need to consider when it comes to traffic and car rental in our separate article: Car rental in Greece

What is the parking situation on site?

If you come to Spinalonga by rental car, you can park at the port of Plaka, provided you get there early enough, because parking is limited. Plaka is a really small place that struggles with a lot of visitors. In summer, it is hectic here, especially around lunchtime, with many buses pushing their way through the narrow main street.

Further parking spaces are located at the entrance to Plaka, not far from the new playground (Mirabello Park) and a little above the large Plaka car park. The parking areas are free of charge, the yellow lines are parking bans and illegal parking is subject to high fines.

By bus to Spinalonga

Another way to reach Spinalonga is by bus. Crete has a good bus network, especially the cities in the north are reliably connected to each other. From Heraklion buses of the regional company KTEL Heraklion Lasithi run several times a day from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. via Chersonissos and Malia to Agios Nikolaos.

The journey takes about 75 minutes and starts at the central bus station of Heraklion (bus station A) between the ferry port and the GDM Megaron Hotel. From Agios Nikolaos bus station it is another 35 minutes by bus to Elounda or Plaka. The buses only run every two hours. We recommend the arrival by bus to Spinalonga only for holidaymakers with bus experience in Greece.

→ Current trains from Heraklion to Agios Nikolaos can be found on: KTEL Herlas

Alternatively, you can take a guided tour bus tour to Spinalonga which starts from various places on Crete (including Rethymno, Heraklion, Hersonissos etc.). At our partner GetYourGuide* you can book bus excursions:

➲ To the organized bus tours*

#2 Opening hours of the Spinalonga Fortress

Spinalonga can be visited from April 1st to October 31st daily from 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Out of season, Spinalonga Fortress is closed despite its historical significance for Crete. On the island itself there is a ticket office, toilets (for a fee) and the overpriced Spinalonga Snack Bar (Beer approx. 8 €, orange juice approx. 7 €).

• Opening hours of Spinalonga: 8:30 a.m. – 6 p.m., last admission approx. 30 minutes before

The entrance tickets to Spinalonga will be purchased after the ferry crossing from Plaka, Elounda or Agios Nikolaos on the Spinalonga ticket office both for individual travelers and for organized tours. It is not possible to book tickets online to visit the fortress.

Ticket prices for the Spinalonga Fortress:

• Adult: 20 €
• Reduced ticket (from 65 years): 10 €
• Children, young people and students up to 25 years of age: free admission for EU citizens

Days with free admission to Spinalonga:

• 18 April (International Heritage Day)
• 18 May (International Museum Day)
• last weekend in September (European Heritage Days)
• October 28 (National Holiday – Ochi Day)

Closing days of Spinalonga Fortress: Greek Rose Monday, Greek Easter Sunday and Whit Monday, 1 May

#3 Spinalonga on your own from Plaka

Spinalonga is a very popular destination in Crete and is visited by hundreds of holidaymakers every day. Individualists can do Spinalonga on their own and explore the island at their leisure. The shortest crossing is from the hamlet of Plaka, 5 km north of the resort of Elounda. At the port of Plaka, the rental car can be parked free of charge.

From the small fishing port, depending on the number of tourists, small and large boats of the Elounda-Plaka Boat Cooperative. The 20 or so ships are mostly traditional wooden boats, called Kaik, which make the crossing an experience in itself. A small drop of bitterness: After a good five minutes you will reach the island of Spinalonga.

→ Tickets for the Spinalonga crossing (from 14 € p.p.) can be booked directly at the harbour kiosk, information at: Plaka Boat

Our Spinalonga Experiences: The excursion to Spinalonga in the late afternoon remains in our memories very well. On the island there were only our excursion boat and another boat, so that we could visit the former leper island of Crete at our pace and with a toddler in peace. Around 6:00 p.m. we drove back to Plaka after about 1.5 hours in beautiful evening light.

The Spinalonga boats operate from 8:15 am (first trip) to 6:00 pm (last return). Please note that visiting Spinalonga depends on weather conditions and the availability of the boats that sail to the island. In strong waves, a transfer to Spinalonga not possible.

#4 Tours to Spinalonga Island

If you don’t want to or can’t drive a rental car yourself, an organized excursion to Spinalonga is recommended. Tours are offered by Rethymno, Heraklion, Malia and Agios Nikolaos and the prices range from 20 € (Ag. Nikolaos) and 45 € (Heraklion). Small sailing trips around the island with BBQ are also possible.

Depending on the type and scope of the tour, after the bus ride, you will go by boat from Agios Nikolaos, Elounda or Plaka to the island of Spinalonga Kalydon. From Plaka, the actual boat crossing is shortest at 5 minutes, from Elounda it takes 15 minutes and from Agios Nikolaos at least 45 minutes. After arrival, a stay of 1.5 hours on Spinalonga is usually planned.

For some excursions, a guided tour of the complex is included in the price. The Spinalonga entrance fee is never included in the price, but must always be purchased at the ticket office upon arrival on the island. Spinalonga excursions are recommended, which also offer a detour to the surroundings of Elounda or to Agios Nikolaos.

→ This Crete Tours can be purchased directly from our partner GetYourGuide* can be booked:

➲ To the boat trip from Ag. Nikolaos*

➲ To the tour from Heraklion/ Hersonissos*

➲ To the sailing trip around the island incl. BBQ*

#5 Walking tour of Spinalonga Kalydon

After purchasing the entrance ticket, enter the fortress through the imposing entrance portal and enter through a tunnel. Since 1997, extensive restoration work has been taking place on the site, so that some of the old residential buildings have already been modernized. In some rooms, contemporary exhibits from the time and information boards are exhibited.

You should plan at least 45 minutes, better 1.5 hours for the visit. Individualists have a clear advantage here, because most guided groups often only have a stay of just under an hour. The entire area of Spinalonga can be circumnavigated on a circular route (1 km) in about 20 minutes. Below is a description of the most important places and buildings of Spinalonga.

Ottoman marketplace and houses

A real eye-catcher is the compact market square, which you cross right after the entrance. It was built by the Muslim families who lived on Spinalonga in the 18th and 19th centuries and was considered a small trading center of the island. A narrow alley leads further north, some of the houses have been provided with colorful doors and shutters.

Here and there, house entrances are open, photo exhibitions and information boards give insights into life at that time, both during the Ottoman occupation and during the time as a leper colony. In other rooms, like in an open-air museum, household items, tools and medical products of the time are displayed in showcases.

Hospital of Spinalonga

If you continue along the alley, you will come to the church of Agios Panteleimon, one of the two restored churches on the island, and then a sign points in the direction of “Hospital/ Nosokomeio”. The hospital is one of the largest buildings on Spinalonga and was the most important as a medical treatment center.

That Hospital of Spinalonga is currently closed due to the risk of collapse, but from here you have a good view of the facility. By the way, there was a disinfection station right by the sea, where visitors to Plaka were disinfected on arrival and departure. We continue on a narrow stairway up to the highest point (53 m above sea level) of Spinalonga.

Spinalonga Castle

Even though the path up is a bit confusing and partly leads over hill and dale, the ascent is worth it for the magnificent panorama alone. But be careful, the citadel was built directly on the rocks, is hardly secured and it goes down quite steeply. Unfortunately, a large part of the immediate buildings are badly destroyed.

Continue south to the mighty South Bastion, which is still very well preserved. From here you can enjoy a magnificent view over the bay of Elounda. Directly below the bastion is the two-aisled church of Agios Georgios Spinalonga. The church is usually open, light a candle here in memory of the exiles of Spinalonga and then carefully return to the pier.

For holidaymakers who are looking for a special excursion in Crete, it is worth taking a look at the sailing trip in the Gulf of Mirabello. You will circle the island of Spinalonga and enjoy spectacular views. This excursion can be booked via GetYourGuide*:

➲ Sailing trips in the Gulf of Mirabello*

#6 Interesting facts about the island of Spinalonga

Officially, the island of Spinalonga, which is about 8.5 hectares in size, is actually called Kalydon. The more common name today was introduced during the Venetian rule (16th century). In Italian, “spina lunga” means something like “long thorn” and refers to the entire peninsula behind the fortress, which forms the lagoon-like Bay of Elounda.

Only 750 m separate the island from the Cretan coast. Spinalonga is strategically located at the entrance to Elounda Bay, which is why the Venetians built a mighty fortress here in the Middle Ages to monitor the sea routes. Today, on the south side of the island, there is a pier for boats and tourist facilities.

Spinalonga was already inhabited in ancient times, changed occupiers several times in the Middle Ages and gained international fame in 1958 as a last leper colony in Europe. Since the 1970s, Spinalonga has been marketed for tourism under the direction of the Greek National Tourist Board. The ruins have already served as a backdrop for film scenes and documentaries several times.

Since 2009, the Cretan regional administration of Lasithi, under the leadership of the city of Agios Nikolaos, has been making great financial efforts to have the historical site recognized Spinalonga as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The application was provisionally accepted by UNESCO in 2016, but had to be withdrawn in 2019.

There were fierce disputes between the prefecture of Lasithi and the Ministry of Culture in Athens, which probably envisaged even more extensive tourist use. The mayor of Agios Nikolaos announced: “Is a former leprosy hospital now being used as a tourist restaurant?”. Since 2022, the whole issue has been on hold.

Spinalonga Film & Book: Island of the Forgotten

The story of the Exiled Island is both tragic and moving, and in the last 70 years since its closure, it has also inspired art and film to capture what happened for posterity. Spinalonga became internationally known in 1957 through the Greek movie The Island of Silence (To Nisi tis Siopis) by Lila Kourkoulakou.

The film, which was shown at the Venice International Film Festival in 1958 and made the shocked audience aware of medieval conditions in Europe at the time, made a significant contribution to the fact that the leper colony in Crete was finally closed due to international pressure.

In 2005, the Greek-British author Victoria Bislop published her first work, called The Island and landed a bestseller. The story of the archaeologist Alexis Fielding, who walks in the footsteps of her past on the mythical island of exile, helped Bislop and not least Spinalonga to international fame. On Amazon* you can order your copy of the book by Victoria Bislop*

Between 2010 and 2011, a Greek television station filmed Bislop’s book material under the title “To Nisi” (Original: Το Νησί). In impressive images, the 26-part series shows the journey of the main character Alexis Fielding to the island of Spinalonga and depicts the arduous life of the lepers in flashbacks. The series To Nisi is considered the most successful and at the same time the most expensive Greek television production.

#7 History of Spinalonga

Already in ancient times, Spinalonga Island is said to have been the port of Olous. Unfortunately, little is known about this Hellenistic city, which maintained close relations with the island of Rhodes. Olous and the port at Spinalonga were probably destroyed by the Arab invasion in the 9th century. In the following period, the island was inhabited by shepherds.

When the Venetians took control of Crete in the 16th century, they built several defenses and fortresses around Crete to protect against the threatening Ottoman Empire. The cartographer Vincenzo Coronelli even reported that in 1526 the Venetians separated the island of Spinalonga from the peninsula of Spinalonga behind it with great effort.

This improved the island’s defenses. Whether the land masses ever belonged together has not been scientifically proven, but between 1574 and 1578 the first construction work began on Spinalonga. After the construction of massive ring walls, the bastions that were visible from afar followed in several construction phases and the Venetian fort in its present form was built.

During the War for Crete (1640-1659), when the Venetians tried to repel the numerous attacks of the Ottomans with French help, Spinalonga was further fortified. In 1647, the fortress received refugees from other parts of Crete who had been expelled by the Ottomans. In 1718, Spinalonga finally fell to the Turks.

Spinalonga and its heavily decimated fortress were of secondary importance in the following period. Several soldiers and about 20 Muslim families lived on Spinalonga until the end of the 19th century. In the course of the Greek liberation struggles, Spinalonga was one of the few places in Crete that was still under Ottoman control.

While many parts of Greece had long been liberated from the Ottomans, Crete did not receive its autonomy until 1897. Under pressure from the Greek Orthodox population, many Muslim families had to leave the islands and leave their belongings behind. The Cretan state decided in 1903 to quarantine lepers in Spinalonga.

On October 13, 1904, the first 251 lepers were resettled on the island of Spinalonga. Although they lived in the former houses of the Muslims, they lacked everything. The meagre basic care was provided only reluctantly. In 1935, about 300 people lived on the island, on average one died every week and a new one was added – without medical care, this was called banishment for life at the time.

In 1939, new buildings were erected for medical care, among other things, and a ring road was built. From 1948 onwards, new treatment methods (including the antibiotic Dapsone) improved the conditions on Spinalonga and cured patients were able to leave the island. Spinalonga was operated until 1957 and was thus considered the last leper colony in Europe.

The last inhabitant of Spinalonga, an Orthodox priest who had long since been cured, left the island in 1962 because of complete loneliness.

#8 restaurants near Spinalonga

On Spinalonga itself there is no gastronomic refreshment stop, but only a snack bar for (overpriced) drinks and snacks. If you want, you can stop by one of the cozy taverns in Plaka or Elounda after visiting Leprosy Island. Many restaurants in Plaka overlooking Spinalonga are charming but don’t offer good value for money. Here are our recommendations:

To Pefko (The Pine Tree) (Plaka): Very cozy café in the alley to the harbor. You sit under the eponymous pine tree and can watch the hustle and bustle in the village in peace and quiet. In addition to delicious coffee and Greek cake, savoury snacks (mezedes) are also served.

PORTA | Resto Bar (Plaka): Modern wine restaurant just above the port of Plaka with a view of Spinalonga. In addition to typical Greek cuisine there are also international dishes. Friendly owner couple and attentive staff, fair prices and relaxed atmosphere.

Okeanis (Elounda): Somewhat hidden, but all the quieter is the family-run, attractively designed tavern. Here, the friendly chef still stands at the stove himself and provides his guests with tasty home cooking. Good value for money and great selection of vegan and vegetarian dishes.

Venue Cafe Bar (Elounda): Café in the village square of Elounda. Here you can enjoy good coffee and refreshing cocktails with a view of the harbour. Perfect to reduce the waiting time for the crossing to Spinalonga.

Akrohoria (Elounda): Located just outside of Elounda, an ancient tavern with friendly owners. Great selection of grilled dishes, popular with the locals and reasonable prices. Magnificent view from the terrace to the bay of Elounda.

#9 Hotel tips for Spinalonga (Elounda)

In recent years, Elounda has become one of the most popular Resorts in Crete developed. There are accommodations for almost every budget, from villas with pools in the hinterland to simple holiday apartments in the village to exclusive luxury hotels right by the sea. Here are our recommendations, more details on Booking.com*:

Beautiful accommodations in the region

Cayo Exclusive Resort & Spa (Plaka)

New 5-star resort in a quiet location above Plaka with a fascinating view of Spinalonga and the surrounding bay. The rooms are ultra-modern, the service standard is high and the well-kept grounds exude feel-good character. Proud price for exclusivity on a holiday in Crete.

➲ Book Cayo Exclusive Resort & Spa*

Casa di Plaka (Plaka)

Newly built villa made of natural stone directly on the traffic-calmed waterfront. Very elegant and luxurious furnishings (jacuzzi, small pool, fireplace etc.) as well as balconies and terrace with sea views. Accommodates up to 6 people! Probably the most beautiful place to stay in the immediate vicinity of Spinalonga.

➲ Book Casa di Plaka*

Elounda Colour Apartments (Elounda)

Centrally located aparthotel not far from the Elounda harbour. Maria rents out modern studios and apartments, some of which can accommodate up to four people. In addition, a delicious and individual breakfast is served.

➲ Book Elounda Colour Apartments*

Elounda Heights (Elounda)

Solid 3-star hotel for adults in a prime location above Elounda. Some apartments offer a wonderful panoramic view of the bay. The rooms are tastefully decorated and a swimming pool provides cooling on hot summer days. Good value for money.

➲ Book Elounda Heights* *Links to Booking.com

#10 Places of interest in the area

Excursion to Agios Nikolaos

The provincial town is just 25 minutes away and is the heart of eastern Crete. Hardly any visitor to Spinalonga misses a stroll through the city of 12,000 inhabitants. The highlight of Ai Nikola, as the Greeks say, is Lake Voulismeni, which is located in the middle of the city. Shopping fans appreciate the many boutiques, jewellers and shoe shops.

Excursion to the Lasithi Plain

The Lasithi Plateau is the largest of its kind in all of Crete. It is located about 60 km southwest of Spinalonga and can be easily combined with Agios Nikolaos and Spinalonga for a day trip. Characteristic of the plain are the white wind turbines, which used to stand in the fields by the thousands.

The famous Cave of Psychro (Dikteon Antron), where the father of the gods Zeus is said to have been born, is also worth a visit. It is located on the mountain slopes of the Lasithi Plateau and impresses with its size and the many bizarre stalactite formations.

Areti Monastery near Karidi

Like an oasis in the desert, the Areti Monastery (Aretio) in the barren countryside about 1 km outside the village of Karidi. The Venetian-style monastery (16th century) suffered greatly from the attacks of the Ottomans. After the autonomy of Crete, it was rebuilt at the end of the 19th century and since the 1950s monks have lived here again.

Today, the courtyard is an oasis of peace, here stands the venerable Catholic and 12 cypresses, which symbolize the 12 apostles. A visit to the monastery, which is well worth seeing, is possible outside the siesta times, so you have to pay attention to appropriate clothing. Small souvenirs can be purchased in the monastery shop.

→ More articles about the island and numerous Crete travel tips can be found at:

• Island of Crete – Guidebook
• Crete Highlights
• Best Crete Hotels
• Crete Excursions

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