Western Cyclades island hopping on Milos, Serifos & Sifnos

The Western Cyclades are of harsh, wild beauty: barren mountains, rugged rocky coasts, tuff, wide bays with tamarisks in which the cicadas chirp, and old mines – ore, silver and sulphur.

In between, scattered are the Cycladic villages, whitewashed cubes of houses with Aegean blue doors and shutters, dovecotes and windmills. Sifnos, Serifos and Milos tick all the Cycladic clichés.

And yet Island hopping in the Western Cyclades different: Far away from the international jet set, you go on holiday among Greeks, without luxury hotels, expensive boutiques and beach clubs with a party atmosphere.

That’s exactly why I feel particularly comfortable here. Each of the Western Cycladic islands is a small world of its own that wants to be discovered. To make these discoveries a little easier for you, I have put my own personal highlights on a Cyclades Islandhopping.

#1 Serifos Island

On arrival, Serifos looks bare and inhospitable, a rocky, barren and dry island. It takes time to recognize the charm of the island and feel the special flair.

Speaking of time, Serifos is not in a hurry. On the island it is tranquil and somehow time has stood still. On the almost circular island, nine kilometers wide and ten kilometers long, live just 1,500 inhabitants. In summer, holidaymakers arrive, especially mainland Greeks, but also international guests.

Serifos is not overcrowded, even in the high season. This is due to the limited tourist infrastructure, too little nightlife and opportunities for shopping.

Relaxed holiday atmosphere in Livadi

Livadi is the “seaside resort” par excellence on Serifos. This is where you end up if you arrive by ferry. Livadi stretches along the wide bay lined with tamarisk trees. Only the front part of the shore road is asphalted, the rest is a dusty track and seems a bit improvised. There is not much to discover in the small harbour settlement. Livadi consists of guesthouses, holiday homes and hotels, a few mini-markets and a handful of souvenir shops.

In addition, you will find a considerable selection of restaurants for the size of the island. Culinary highlights are not to be expected, but in some taverns you still sit on the typical Greek wooden chairs directly on the water and in the sand. That’s something you don’t find often anymore.

In the evening, you can stroll along the promenade to the beach and back. The young people meet at a later hour in the yacht club, the former kafenion. During the day, bathing pleasures beckon. In and around Livadi you will find the Avlomonas and the Livadakia Beach two extensive and good sandy beaches.

Perhaps the most beautiful chora of the Western Cyclades

The Chora of Serifos is enthroned high up on the mountain. After all, it used to have to offer the islanders protection from the attacks of the pirates. Nothing can be seen of the former fortress today. Nevertheless, visitors are drawn up to the Kastro. The ascent to the highest point of the Pano Chora It is worth it just because of the picturesque church of Agios Konstantinos and the view over the Aegean Sea.

The most popular walk through the maze of alleys is in the evening hours. Then the Chora comes to life, especially on the Pano Piatsa. The Pano Piatsa is the small main square with the town hall, the church of Agios Athanasius and several bars and cafés. The square, full of colorful tables and wooden chairs, is one of the most popular photo motifs on the island.

The Pano Chora can be reached in about half an hour via a stairway that leads up from Livadi through the Kato Chora. KTEL’s public bus runs from Livadi to Chora on the hour and back on the half hour during the high season. In the evening there are additional connections.

Megalo Livadi and the old iron mines

For several centuries, ore was mined on Serifos, and many islanders worked in the mines. After its closure in 1965, the remains were converted into a cultural heritage explained.

In the area around Megalo Livadi you can take a little journey through time, meet rusty carts lying around in the terrain and parts of the charging station that protrudes into the sea like a skeleton.

The village of Megalo Livadi itself is dominated by the classicist façade of the dilapidated, former administration building and headquarters of the French mining company. The pretty bay is well visited in summer. Here you will not only dive into the sea, but also into the history of mining and industrial culture.

#2 Sifnos Island

After Serifos, the best thing to do is hop over to Sifnos. In the West Cyclades island hopping, the lovely Sifnos is a contrast to the first island. In ancient times, Sifnos was one of the richest islands in Greece. Silver and gold mines ensured prosperity.

Today, the approximately 2,500 inhabitants on the 78 km² island live from agriculture, pottery and tourism. Despite its small size, Sifnos is surprisingly diverse. The villages on Sifnos, even the island’s capital Apollonia, are tranquil and like out of a picture book. The Sifnic cuisine has the reputation of being one of the best in Greece.

The former capital of Kastro, mysterious and fascinating

Kastro, the name says it all. Like a fortress, the town nestles against the rocks in the east of the island. The houses stand close together, forming a defensive wall on the outside, interrupted only by narrow entrances, the Lotzies. Around the village, a panoramic circular route. From here you can enjoy the view of the church of Eftamartyros or the old port.

The medieval structure of the small town is well preserved. Antique building elements, coats of arms, columns or fountain troughs have been integrated into the newer buildings and form a special contrast to the Cycladic houses. Some of these houses have wooden balconies and narrow, steep stairs lead to the entrances. In some cases, bridges run across the alleys. Kastro is a bit like an open-air museum.

I love this enchanting place, especially in the morning light when you can stroll around all by yourself. For me, it is one of the most beautiful places on Sifnos and the Western Cyclades.

Artemonas with its pretty streets and noble houses

Another gem is the small village of Artemonas, which has now grown together with Apollonia. In the narrow cobblestone streets, traditional houses and neoclassical villas alternate in well-kept gardens.

They are witnesses to the former wealth of the island. In the evening, the alleys come alive and people meet in the restaurants and bars or on the large village square in front of the church.

This square hosts the Festival of Cycladic Gastronomy in September. «Nikolaos Tselementes» instead of. Nikolaos Tselementes is a child of the island and is known for the first comprehensive Greek cookbook. Maybe that’s why the food on Sifnos is a little bit better than elsewhere.

(Sun) Swimming in Faros and Vroulidia

Sifnos is known for its extensive beaches. After all, swimming in the warm Aegean Sea should not be neglected during the West Cycladic Island Hopping. In addition to the well-known seaside resorts of Platis Gialos and Vathi with the wide sandy beaches sloping gently into the sea, Sifnos has a number of other bays to offer.

One of the most spectacular bays is Vroulidia in the northeast of the island. The journey is a bit adventurous, bumpy, dusty and narrow. At the end, a bay with crystal clear water awaits you – beautiful.

My favorite place to swim, however, is the picturesque one fishing village of Faros with the three sandy beaches of Fasolou, Faro and Glyfo and its sheltered harbour. Although I don’t particularly like typical seaside resorts, I feel comfortable here. This is how holidays in Greece should be.

The Monastery of Chrisopigi

Did you know that there are more than 300 churches on Sifnos? That’s quite a lot even by Cycladic standards. Everywhere you will find chapels, churches and monasteries. The monastery of Chrisopigi is known throughout Greece. Every year on the eve of Ascension Day, a large festival is held here in honour of the Patron Saint of Sifnos instead of.

The monastery is idyllically located on a small rocky peninsula and can be reached from Faros via a well-developed footpath. This path is even illuminated in the evening and very romantic.

Sifnos is a real hiker’s paradise with about 100 kilometers of hiking trails. Route 2 leads to the Church of the Miraculous Saints. It is a wonderful coastal path from Kastro to the monastery of Chrisopigi. I can highly recommend the leisurely hike.

#3 Milos Island

Milos is the largest island of the Western Cyclades. She’s of volcanic origin and very scenic, tuff, lava, colorful and bizarre rock formations are omnipresent. In doing so, it may remind us a little of Santorini, but is not so crowded.

Milos is large and varied enough to spend a week or more here. When island hopping in the Western Cyclades, Milos is an ideal starting or ending point on your route. Tourism is gaining in importance on Milos. Nevertheless, the Mining is still the main source of income today.

Colorful boathouses in Klima

What Little Venice is for Mykonons, Schinopi, Klima, Areti and Fourkovouni are for Milos. The island has only a few secure accesses to the sea. That’s why the fishermen used to stay here on the Gulf of Milos for long periods of time in the tiny fishing villages with their boathouses.

The small two-storey houses have a so-called «Syrmata», the boat garage, from which you could push the boat directly into the sea.

Today, the white boathouses with the colorful gates, shutters and balconies are a special feature of the island and very photogenic. In Klima you have the opportunity to rent such boathouses as a holiday apartment. You can hardly spend a more authentic and stylish night on Milos.

That fishing village Klima, below the village of Tripidi, is decidedly picturesque. Strictly speaking, Klima is nothing more than a row of houses that cling to the rock and are washed by the sea on the other side. Depending on the water level, the sea starts right outside the front door.

In the high season, Klima is a popular destination. Otherwise, it is very quiet here and you can enjoy the seclusion. There is no tourist infrastructure in Klima. For grocery shopping, you have to go to Triovasalos or Adamas – the road there is narrow and winding.

In the summer months, a restaurant and a small souvenir shop welcome guests. That’s all there is. Staying in Klima is certainly one of the highlights on a West Cycladic island hopping.

Milos Dream Beach: Sarakiniko Beach

The beach of Sarakiniko is one of the undisputed highlights of Milos. You may know him from the Küng video for “This Girl”. Volcanism has formed a unique landscape here.

The dazzling white tuff rock and ash deposits form bizarre structures, cones, caves, rock faces, waves and arches. The blue of the sea forms the perfect Greek contrast.

You can spend a lot of time on the extensive grounds, climbing around, swimming and taking pictures. In the high season, Sarakiniko Beach is quite crowded, with visitors spreading their beach towels all over the rocks. In May or October, you can really enjoy the lunar landscape modelled by wind and waves.

Evening atmosphere in Plaka

Don’t be put off by the rather faceless port town of Adamas. Milos has more to offer, for example the idyllic village of Plaka. The main town is located on the highest point of the island, only the Kastro is enthroned above it.

Plaka is very original, has a lot of old buildings and with its white houses is a typical Cycladic village. In the narrow streets you will find a few restaurants and a small bar.

Especially beautiful is the Sunset in Plaka. To do this, people meet at the Kastro, on the forecourt of the church of Panagia Korphiatissa or in the Café Utopia and watch the sun sink into the sea at the northwestern tip of the island and bathe everything in a golden light.

More travel tips for the Western Cyclades

Accommodation in Milos, Sifnos & Serifos

On the islands of Milos, Sifnos and Serifos, numerous accommodations in all price categories await Greek vacationers. However, you will look in vain for large hotel complexes with hundreds of rooms in the Western Cyclades.

→ About Booking.com* you will find many accommodation on the Western Cyclades and you can check prices here:

Personal accommodation recommendation of the author

I am careful with personal hotel and restaurant tips. Tastes, budgets and demands are too different. On Serifos, I spent the night in the loft of the brand new Chill & Co. On Sifnos, I stayed at the Hotel Petali with a fantastic view of Apollonia and my Milos highlight was the Honeymoon Klima Suite.

→ On Booking.com* you can book the author’s accommodations: Chill & Co., Serifos* , Petali Village Hotel, Sifnos* , Honeymoon Air Conditioning Suite, Milos*

Restaurant tips for Milos, Sifnos and Serifos

Among the restaurants on the island of Serifos, I would recommend either the Kalis or the Metal — both of which were among my favourites in the 2020 season.

My favorite restaurant on Sifnos is this Perivoli. Its beautiful garden and pretty pergola are worth a visit alone. The food does not have to shy away from international comparison and is really excellent. The family-run Tavern Kelari in Kato Petali convinces with simple typical Sifi cuisine.

On Milos I have good memories of the Barriello in Tripiti.

Getting around the islands

Of course, you can get (almost) anywhere on Serifos, Sifnos and Milos by public buses. If you want to be independent and discover the countless bays, I recommend renting a car. You should definitely reserve one in advance during the high season, especially during the Greek holidays. On Sifnos, my naivety almost thwarted my plans. Fortunately, I was allowed to use a vehicle of the hotel. You can book a rental car on the cyclades on Discover Cars*:

➲ Book a rental car here*

Public bus connections are available in the Western Cyclades. The main towns of the islands of Milos, Serifos and Sifnos are connected several times a day during the season. A bus rarely runs to remote places. The bus company KTEL, some tour operators and hotels provide up-to-date bus timetables.

• Milos bus timetable: Milos Timetable
• Sifnos bus timetable: Sifnos Bus Schedule
• Serifos Bus Schedule: Serifos Transport

Western Cyclades: Islands and how to get there

Lined up like a string of pearls are the six islands of Kea, Kythnos, Serifos, Sifnos, Kimolos and Milos in the Aegean Sea. Kea and Kythnos (also spelled Kithnos), which are closest to the Greek mainland, have the least “Cycladic” effect. However, this does not have to be a disadvantage.

As the only one of the Western Cyclades islands, Milos via a national airport, which is available from the airport Athens off. Several times a day, the turboprop aircraft of the Greek regional airline Olympic Air land on the runway, which is almost one kilometre long. On the Skyscanner* portal you can display suitable flight connections:

➲ To the flight booking for Milos (via Athens)

Ferry connections between the Western Cyclades

You can only reach the other islands by ferry or fast ferry. There are only connections to Kea from Lavrion. Zante Ferries heads for Kithnos, Serifos, Sifnos, Milos and Kimolos on the route to the South Cyclades.

The large fast ferries of Seajets or Aegean Speedlines will take you from Piraeus (port of Athens) to Serifos in about two hours. The distances between the islands of the Western Cyclades are short. On the portal Ferryhopper* you can search for suitable ferry connections:

➲ To the ferry booking for your island hopping*

The fast ferry from Serifos to Sifnos takes another half hour and about 50 minutes from Sifnos to Milos or vice versa. A more convenient Greece Island Hopping . An island combination of Serifos, Sifnos and Milos is obvious.

→ All information and travel reports about the Cyclades archipelago can be found at: Cyclades Islands

About the author:

Since 2016, Carola has been reporting on small, large, short and longer trips to near and far destinations, all of which can be realized alongside a full-time job. True to the motto “Life is short and world is wide”, Carola is constantly drawn out into the world to experience something, to be active and to enjoy food and unusual accommodation. Greece, has been the country of her heart and wanderlust destination par excellence for decades. She has visited more than 30 islands so far, some several times. And Carola hasn’t had enough yet. At the end of May 2021, we will hopefully go to Naxos and Amorgos.

✐ More travel tips from Carola can be found here: TravellingCarola

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