Western Macedonia in Greece

Greece as you don’t know it. Untouched, wild and mysterious. The region of Western Macedonia is considered a real insider tip for Greece. On our Macedonia round trip we explored the beauty of this original area.

»The wild beauty of Western Macedonia with its dreamy mountain villages and lonely landscapes allows even the most stressed mind to come to rest.«

When we crossed the border from Albania to Greece, we had no idea that in the next few days we would see bears in the wild, float through the air for the first time and get a whole new picture of our beloved Hellas.

Until then, we had no exact idea of Macedonia. Apart from the name dispute with North Macedonia, the former Yugoslav republic. The hospitality of the people (and the Tsipouro) warms your heart and the culinary specialties make you dream of Western Macedonia long after the trip.

Holidays in Macedonia is a break from the everyday chaos and hustle and bustle of everyday life. Far away from mass tourism, you can unwind here and let yourself be pampered. Enclosed we take you on our round trip through fascinating Western Macedonia and introduce you to the highlights of our stay.

The region Western Macedonia in northern Greece has so far hardly been of any importance for international tourism. Wrongly! We tell you which highlights you should not miss in this part of Macedonia:

#1 Prespa National Park: A Natural Paradise

In the border triangle between Albania, North Macedonia and Greece lies a place of longing for nature lovers. The Prespa National Park with its two lakes has hardly been developed for tourism so far and that is exactly what makes the region so attractive for those seeking relaxation.

In this remote stretch of land, our road trip on the Greek mainland started. The two deep blue lakes are the heart of Prespa. In the background, mighty mountain peaks rise up, which are covered in snow until spring. A picturesque backdrop at an altitude of over 800 meters, which we were able to enjoy all to ourselves in April.

The Small Prespa Lake (“Mikri Prespa”) belongs to Greece for the most part and is home to over 275 species of birds. Its protected wetlands are home to the world’s largest breeding area of Dalmatian pelicans.

Even though North Macedonia and Albania account for the majority of the Great Prespa Lake, Greece offers a special kind of highlight on the banks of the “Megalo Prespa”. But more on that in a moment. Prespa showed itself to us as a lonely region, packed with countless natural treasures. Three days were far from enough to explore all the facets extensively.

#2 The Holy Hermitages at Psarades

That fishing village of Psarades is picturesquely embedded in a deep bay on the Great Prepa Lake. In the sleepy village with its old stone houses, there are some simple accommodations. Fish taverns are lined up on the village square, while pelicans make themselves comfortable on the jetty. The wild Prespa cattle, which graze on the wet meadows of the village in the afternoon, complete the village idyll.

From Psarades you can go on several excursions. On your own, it is worthwhile to hike to Cape Roti. After about 2.5 kilometers, you will reach this beautiful viewpoint northwest of Psarades. The view of the Great Lake Prespa and the countless mountain peaks of the neighboring countries is magnificent.

On the way back, you can make a short detour to one of the impressive hermitages of Lake Prespa. Monks built their hermitages here in caves on the lakeshore to protect themselves from the occupation of the Ottomans. The “Metamorphosis” Hermitage is the only hermitage you can reach by land. The entire hike takes about three to four hours.

It is also absolutely worthwhile to have a boat trip from Psarades to the rock paintings and the hermitages. There is no specific tour operator; we recommend that you ask in the taverns on site. Fishermen like to drive holidaymakers along the lakeshore for an hour for about 15 euros per person.

The boats dock at the Hermitages “Analipsi” and “Eleousa” and you will have the opportunity to visit the hermitages. Especially the Hermitage Eleousa is spectacularly built into a huge crevice. You can climb up to the small chapel and get a feel for how the monks used to live here. The view through the rock window of the lake is breathtaking!

#3 Small Lake Prespa: Agios Achillios Island

From Psarades a road leads down to the Little Prespa Lake. Even from afar, the pretty island stands out Agios Achillios catches the eye. The island is connected to the mainland via a floating pontoon bridge and you can only visit it on foot.

By the way, you have the best view of Agios Achillios in the evening from the small hill Krina, right in front of the entrance to the island. From up here you can also watch birds. The wetlands run right along the lakeshore and numerous birds, including pelicans, herons and cormorants, nest here.

There are only 11 houses on Agios Achillios so far. Legend has it that every new house that is built collapses again. In addition, there are five churches, of which the Basilica of Agios Achillios, which is probably the most famous. The ruins of the church blend perfectly into the landscape and are a popular photo motif.

If you want to enjoy the peace and quiet on the small island, you can also spend a night here. There is a hotel and a restaurant for day visitors.

Birdwatching at the Little Prespa Lake

North of Agios Achillios at the narrowest point of the isthmus is Koula. Here, the Great and Small Prespa Lakes are connected by a lock. The water level of the Small Prespa Lake is regulated by this lock. This makes it possible to maintain the important habitat for animals and plants.

Along the narrow headland you will find lookout towers, from which you can observe the numerous bird species. Approaching the breeding and nesting sites is strictly prohibited and should be respected throughout the National Park. Bringing binoculars is an advantage. Guided bird watching can be requested at the National Park Office in the village of Agios Germanos.

In the Great Prespa Lake you can also refresh yourself wonderfully in summer. On the Koula Beach as well as the beach behind the village of Lemos, there are sections of fine pebble sand and clear water.

#4 The mountain village of Agios Germanos

The tranquil mountain village is an ideal starting point for exploring the Prespa region. The original place at an altitude of 1,100 metres seems likeable right away. Not even 200 people live here.

Agios Germanos is also home to the office of the National Park Authority and a small visitor center. The staff will be happy to provide information about the region and are always available to answer any questions you may have about the national park.

In Agios Germanos it is worth to do the architectural walk. On information boards you will learn a lot of interesting facts about the old Anatolian mansions. Some have been rebuilt in the traditional style and offer private rooms.

Particularly worth seeing is also the Byzantine church Agios Germanos from the 11th century. It stands in the centre of the village and is home to impressive murals. If you follow the gravel road above the village, you also have a great view of the two Prespa lakes.

You should also not leave the region without tasting the Prespa beans. The “Gigantes” are usually made in the oven with tomato sauce and mountain herbs and taste simply heavenly. We found the beans and the Prespa fava at Nikos in the Tavern Prespeion in Agios Germanos.

Paragliding over Lake Prespa

A special highlight and a unique opportunity to experience the beauty of Prespa is on a paragliding flight over the lake landscape. Together with Chris from Ecotourismo.gr through the air. This unique experience will remain in our memories forever!

Around the Prespa lakes you can do a wide variety of activities. Local tour operators and clubs offer numerous outdoor activities at Prespa Lake, such as mountain biking, hiking, horseback riding, canoeing and skiing, also offers cultural and culinary events in the region.

#5 City of Kastoria on Lake Orestiada

The beautiful city of Kastoria in the heart of Macedonia is worth a detour. The village nestles picturesquely around the petrol-blue Orestiada Lake. In the background, high mountain peaks rise up, which are sometimes reflected on the surface of the water.

Along the waterfront, fat geese have made themselves comfortable. The wetlands of the lake attract pelicans and numerous other bird species. Since the 17th century, Kastoria owes its economic rise to fur processing. Even today, the former furrier’s town is known worldwide for this craft.

The beautiful Ntoltso district

Kastoria is best explored on foot due to its narrow streets. There are several routes where you can admire the unique architecture of the city. The historic district of Ntoltso is particularly worth seeing.

During a short walk through the old alleys, you will discover Byzantine churches with still well-preserved murals, magnificent mansions and aristocratic villas. Also in the opposite Apozari district there are numerous churches from the Byzantine period.

On the Emmanouil Square, the oldest market square in Kastoria, you can visit the beautiful Café & Shop Ideas of Triantafillos. We enjoyed excellent coffee here and were even served small appetizers.

Walk along Lake Orestida

From Ntoltsø it is also worth taking a short detour to the promenade of Lake Orestida. On a walk you can watch pelicans landing and just let your mind wander.

We continue on foot, by bike or by car around the peninsula of Kastoria. Most of the city is located on the isthmus, the narrow junction between the mainland and the peninsula. The latter protrudes far into the lake and is only sparsely built-up.

There are several sights to discover on the peninsula of Kastoria. When we circled the lake in spring, the shore shone in the most magnificent colors due to the numerous flowers. Then the whole region becomes an eventful hiking paradise

By the way, you have the most beautiful view of Kastoria from the Tavern Panorama, the highest point of the peninsula. Here we not only enjoyed a fantastic view, but also ate very deliciously.

#6 The Dragon’s Cave (Spilia tou Drakou)

A highlight of Kastoria is the stalactite cave “Spilaio tou Drakou” (Dragons Cave). Despite the small size, the stone formations are spectacular and worth seeing. The accessible part of the Dragon’s Cave is 300 meters long and leads over landscaped bridges, past four shimmering lakes and numerous stalagmites and stalactites.

The tour takes about 20 minutes and you will be accompanied by a guide who will provide comprehensive information about the formation and processes inside the cave. In the cave, for example, bones of a cave bear were found, which must have lived here over 10,000 years ago.

The exit is via a tunnel with further information boxes. In the dragon’s cave there is a constant temperature of about 16-18 degrees. Admission costs about 6 euros per person, and the guide is already included in the entrance fee. Right next to the exit of the cave there is a parking lot and a cozy café.

The Monastery of Panagia Mavriotissa

After visiting the Dragon’s Cave, follow the road further along the peninsula until you reach the beautiful monastery of Panagia Mavriotissa. It is the oldest monastery in Western Macedonia.

Among the wall paintings, some frescoes are still surprisingly well preserved. In the small monastery shop you can buy original souvenirs. The small icons with patron saints were made by the monks themselves.

#7 Other Kastoria Attractions

The Kastoria region has many attractions. The landscape around Lake Orestiada is a paradise for nature lovers. In spring, it blooms everywhere in the orchards. But history fans will also get their money’s worth!

Did you know that in Kastoria one of the oldest tablets in the world was found? For thousands of years, the find was buried under mud masses in Lake Orestiada.

A visit to the Stone Age village of Dispilio

It was not until the beginning of the 20th century that the remains of the Neolithic settlement were uncovered in the village of Dispilio, eight kilometres from Kastoria. In the process, a stone tablet with characters (Dispilio Tablet) was found, which is said to be over 7,000 years old.

In reconstructed mud huts directly on the lakeshore of Dispilio you will get an insight into the way of life of the people in the Neolithic Age. The plaque itself is not on display, as it is currently being extensively conserved. In the small exhibition room at the entrance, finds and exhibits can be viewed.

Cave Church of Agios Nikolaos o Kremastos

A chapel of a special kind awaits you 15 kilometers southeast of Kastoria. The ascent to the “Agios Nikolaos o Kremastos” is only suitable for those with a head for heights. The metal steps, which have been attached to the rock, go steeply upwards. Even without a fear of heights, your knees are shaking a little.

However, the magnificent view from the small rock balcony compensates for the adventurous ascent. Surrounded by high cliffs, the view of the wide valley plain of Kastoria opens up to you.

On hot days, bears are said to come here to the small stream of the valley to refresh themselves. You should therefore always be attentive. The ascent to the church is at your own risk!

#8 Nymfaio: A village in a deep sleep

Once you leave the Kozani valley with its coal-fired power plants behind you, a hidden treasure awaits you behind a mountain pass. That picture-book village Nymfaio (also Nymphaio or Nimfaíon) is hidden and lonely in a small plain at an altitude of 1,350 meters.

The stone houses with the grey-blue roofs nestle picturesquely against each other. A wonderful idyll blows through the deserted alleys. Nymfaio immediately captivates you and you will probably want to return again and again.

Walking tour through the alleys of Nymfaio

A small tour is the best way to explore Nymfaio. Some of the old stone houses have been extensively restored and shine in new splendour with colourful shutters. Around the village square there are some cafes and restaurants.

The city’s former school is currently home to the Arcturos Bear Rescue Information Center. A visit is highly recommended and provides impressive information about the current situation of bears in Greece and Europe.

Extremely worth seeing is also the village church of Agios Nikolaos with its magnificent interior. Quite inconspicuous from the outside, a true work of art of murals and frescoes awaits you inside. Unfortunately, the church is usually locked, unless the lovable priest Giannis happens to be there and gives you an insight.

Our hotel recommendation for the region

Agyro Guesthouse, Nymfaio

Exceptional hospitality awaits you at the Agyro Guesthouse with the eponymous Argyro and her husband Gianni. You feel at home here right away, it’s like coming home, from the first minute. The cottage is located on a hill above the village. Magnificent views are guaranteed.

The traditional rooms are lovingly furnished, some of which even have a fireplace. The extensive breakfast of landlady Argyro is second to none, you will be spoiled with numerous delicacies. Click on the link from Booking.com* for more information about the accommodation:

➲ Book Argyro Guesthouse*

#9 Arcturos: Brown bears in Greece

The non-profit association Arcturos is committed to the rescue and protection of brown bears that have been abused as circus and dancing bears. Arcturos is also taking in brown bears and wolves from European zoos that have been closed.

We have seen for ourselves a picture of this remarkable work made. The Arcturos Information Centre is located in the former school of Nymfaio. We will write a separate report on this in which we show possibilities for support.

The Arcturos Bear Sanctuary is located about a 10-minute walk outside Nymfaio. This is neither a zoo nor a game reserve, but an asylum for abused brown bears. All bears are sterilized and there is no breeding.

The sanctuary for wolves is located near the village of Agrapidies. Orphaned young animals are also taken in, cared for and, if possible, released back into the wild.

→ More information about the remarkable work of the Arcturos association can be found at: ARCTUROS

#10 Wild nature in Pindos National Park

The wild beauty and unspoilt nature of this stretch of land near the town of Grevena can hardly be put into words. If you are looking for a quiet holiday spot in Greece, then you are right in the Pindos Mountains National Park.

The region is a real Mecca for adventurers, whether mountain biking, rafting, kayaking, canyoning or jeep tours. For all those who want a professional tour guide at their side, take a look at the colleagues from Greek Adventure.

In summer you can visit here extensive hikes enterprise. Most of the time, you are more likely to encounter a wildcat than other people. There are still some bears and wolves here, so be careful when forays far away from civilization.

The population of the wild brown bear in Greece it is estimated at 300 – 400 animals. In the mountain streams of the Pindos, you can fill up your water bottle without hesitation. From time to time, wild horses cross the empty streets.

An idyll far off the beaten track, which is probably rare in Europe. In winter, the region comes alive. Then Greeks from the cities come up here to ski.

The original Pindos mountain villages

If you don’t have much time, then it’s worth taking a short trip by car through the old mountain villages, most of which seem to be completely abandoned. Our route took us through Dotsiko, where you pass an old stone bridge.

Outside the village Mesolouri there are picturesque waterfalls where you can cool off in midsummer.

Hike to Portitsa Gorge

From the small village of Spilaio you can go on one of the most beautiful hikes in Greece. From the village you walk about half an hour to the Portitsa Gorge. At the foot of the river, a breathtaking backdrop awaits you.

The old stone bridge is picturesquely located here in front of the entrance to the gorge. The Venetikos River shines in the soft turquoise. Outside the village there is also a gravel road down to Portista Gorge. However, it is in poor condition and only suitable for off-road vehicles.

#11 Outdoor activities on holiday in Macedonia

The region of Western Macedonia around Kastoria, Florina and Kozani is a Mecca for active holidaymakers. Whether hiking, mountain biking, skiing, canoeing or horseback riding. The region of Western Macedonia has something to offer for every sports enthusiast.

Trail Riding and Horse Riding Holidays in Greece

Together with Nikos from Artemis Outdoor Activities you can explore the wild beauty of Macedonia on horseback. Different levels of difficulty are available for trail riding in this region of Greece.

The family business in the village of Sklithro near Nymfaio offers not only horseback riding, but also other numerous outdoor activities in Macedonia. More information can be found at: Artemis Outdoor Activities

Rafting Tours in Western Macedonia

One of our most beautiful Western Macedonia highlights was a rafting tour on the Venetikos and Aliakmonas rivers. The latter, by the way, is the longest river in Greece.

The adventurous rafting tour leads through one of the most beautiful landscapes in Greece and offers a small taste of the rocks of the Meteora Monasteries. This region of Macedonia can also be explored on foot on hikes.

Our guide Heracles from Greek Adventures professionally maneuvered us through the rapids. Plenty of adrenaline and lots of fun is provided when rafting in Greece! More information about the provider: Greek Adventure

#12 Wineries in Western Macedonia

In Macedonia, especially in the region of Western Macedonia, high-quality wine has been cultivated for centuries. In recent years, however, the wine craft in Western Macedonia has experienced a true renaissance.

The Amyndeo wine region near Florina has the highest Greek wine quality level (OPAP). This makes Western Macedonia one of the 26 top wine-growing regions in Greece. The most important wineries in this region of Macedonia are Alpha Estate, Kir-Yianni, Domaine Karanika and Hatzi Winery.

The Alpha Estate Winery

Located in the region of Western Macedonia most famous winery is Alpha Estate (Ktima Alfa) at Aminteo. A guided tour followed by a rehearsal is free of charge and very informative. In the end, you probably won’t be able to avoid taking one of the delicious wines with you. We found the dry one particularly tasty white wine Malagouzia.

The Karanika sparkling wine cellar

Fine wines of a special kind are available just a few minutes away from Aminteo in the Domaine Karanika sparkling wine cellar. The two friendly Dutch nationals Laurens and Annette have been producing the finest Greek “champagne” here for over 10 years. After a short tour, we were allowed to taste the three types of sparkling wine ourselves. Our favorite was the rosé.

The two have focused on the grape variety “Xinomavro” and produce their wines and sparkling wines biodynamically. The fine wines have already made it to great popularity in Greece. The “Karanika champagne” is served in fine restaurants on Santorini and Mykonos, among other places.

More Macedonia Travel Tips & Info

Restaurant recommendation in Macedonia

You will also get your money’s worth in the region of Western Macedonia. In addition to excellent wine, fresh wild mushrooms, wild asparagus, delicious goat’s cheese and the famous Florina pepper, as well as numerous other delicacies, make every gourmet’s heart higher.

We were also spoiled at breakfast in Western Macedonia. Above all, the pites stuffed with vegetables made of filo pastry are a poem.

Restaurant Thomas, Sklithro

By the way, we dined divinely in the Tavern Thomas in the village of Sklithro. Completely inconspicuous from the outside, an extremely stylish ambience awaits you inside the restaurant.

The food is of gourmet quality, but the prices are surprisingly affordable. Rarely have we eaten Greek as well as here. Especially delicious were the Metsovone cheese with Florina peppers and the dreamy mushroom risotto.

Arrival in Western Macedonia

The best way to reach the region of Western Macedonia is by direct flight from Germany to Thessaloniki. From the capital of Macedonia we continue with a rental car. If you don’t need much space, a small car is usually quite sufficient. You can use the Skyscanner* portal to view flight connections to Thessaloniki:

➲ To cheap flights on Skyscanner*

We arrived with our own vehicle and our Fiat 500 mastered every mountain pass. Almost all roads are paved. You sometimes have to avoid one or the other pothole. On Discover Cars* you can check prices and availability for a rental car from Thessaloniki Airport:

➲ To the rental car booking for Thessaloniki*

Suggestion for a round trip

• Thessaloniki (Day 1)
• Nymfaio/ Florina (2nd-4th day)
• Prespa Lake (4th-6th day)
• Kastoria (Day 6-8)
• Grevena/ Siatista (Day 8-10)

The entire round trip to Western Macedonia is about 600 kilometers long and includes four overnight stops. At each station, we recommend planning at least two to three nights.

Besides, it’s also worth to spend a whole day in Thessaloniki. For the entire Greece round trip through Western Macedonia we recommend a period of 10 – 14 days. The more time you have, the more relaxed it is to travel.

Guided tour in Greece

If an individual travel planning for a Greece round trip in the region of Western Macedonia is too time-consuming for you, then we have a little tip for you when it comes to group tours in Greece.

In Nymfaio we met with the sympathetic Nick. With its Joysters Travel Agency he offers tailor-made adventure tours through this original region of Greece.

The focus is on experiencing authentic moments and the intensive contact and exchange with locals. This creates a perfect mix of discovery, adventure, culinary delights and culture for tour groups.

Individual wishes and preferences are taken into account by Nick and his team. A round trip through Macedonia is organized with at least six participants. More information can be found at: Joysters Greece tours

→ All travel reports about the Greek mainland can be found here: Greece Mainland

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