Arta and the Ambracian Gulf

Dolphins in the wild, a sea of fragrant orange trees, hip cafés and pretty shopping alleys, historical treasures and untouched nature. What spontaneously sounds like a tourist hotspot is in fact the Greek Region around Arta, which is in absolute slumber.

“The Art and the Ambracian Gulf are the best examples of the fact that there are beautiful corners in Greece away from the islands.”

The varied area around the City of Arta in southern Epirus seems almost forgotten by tourism and is thus becoming a real insider tip in western Greece. Enclosed we present our favorite Arta sights.

#1 Greece Insider Tip: Arta in Epirus

If the Greek islands are too crowded for you, this part of Greece is the right place for you. As a nature lover or active holidaymaker, you will experience a relaxing time here far away from the hectic tourist paths. The mysterious Tzoumerka region in the hinterland of Arta is considered an insider tip for Greece among connoisseurs.

At the latest when driving through the blooming orange groves between Arta and the Ambracian Gulf, the region will captivate you. The scent of the white flowers is so beguiling that you want to stop and bathe in the sea of orange trees.

If you find your way to Arta, you can be sure that you belong to the rare species as a tourist. The locals are happy about every holidaymaker, who gets lost here and is then amazed at the natural treasures that lie dormant here unnoticed.

We had the opportunity to visit the city of Arta and its picturesque surroundings for a few days. Still completely intoxicated by the wonderful scent of orange blossoms, we tell you the highlights of our stay.

We’ll show you why it’s worth discovering the Arta region right now, before the masses realize how beautiful it really is here.

#2 Koronisia in the Ambracian Gulf

If you have to google this place like we did, you can guess that it really is a undiscovered pearl in Greece.

The Ambracian Gulf (also Amvraki Gulf) is located in the far west of the Greek mainland and is not yet known even to many Greeks. Since it is only connected to the Ionian Sea by a small channel at Preveza, the gulf looks more like a huge lake. From the Pindos Mountains, the rivers Arachtos and Louros flow into the Gulf.

With its large lagoons, the Ambracian Gulf is a unique nature reserve. On the banks is the largest reed bed in the Balkans, which is home to over 280 species of birds. Its important wetlands form the largest contiguous biotope in Greece.

Greece’s unknown natural paradise

In the middle of the Ambracian Gulf lies the inhabited Island of Koronisia, a refuge for those seeking peace and quiet. A narrow causeway leads from the shores into the middle of the gulf to the island. The crossing alone is a real experience! Between dense reeds you can spot pelicans, cormorants and herons. A paradise for ornithologists and bird nerds.

Arriving on Koronisia, the only thing missing is the lonely bale of hay that blows across the road. That sleepy fishing village counts a handful of taverns and guesthouses, a harbour and a beautiful Byzantine church.

The beach at the harbour is not necessarily inviting for swimming, but there is a beautiful beach with fine pebbles at the end of the village. This is good for refreshment and the flat descent makes it also suitable for children.

Koronisia is bordered by two other uninhabited islands, each of which is connected to the island by a narrow headland. There is a small circular trail that you can walk. The locals will be happy to provide more detailed information about the short hike.

Solitude and silence accompany you along the coastal road. Between the newly built houses rises one of the oldest Byzantine churches in the region. The Panagia of Koronisia provides a medieval touch on the small island.

#3 Dolphins in the Ambracian Gulf

Early in the morning we go out with fisherman Stefanos. The variety of fish here in the Gulf is good, the dear fisherman tells us. We want to observe some birds that are native to the lagoons of the Gulf. The Ambracian Gulf is a important bird sanctuary in Greece.

As we go out with his boat, we are suddenly greeted by a group of dolphins Welcomes. They jump in the air, swim around our boat and accompany us for a while. We had never seen dolphins in Greece before. An unforgettable experience!

There are currently no excursion boats that go out from Koronisia to the Ambracian Gulf. It is best to ask a fisherman in the taverns on site. For a small fee, you can go out to the Ambracian Gulf next to them.

We spend the evening in the fish tavern on site on Koronisia. There are delicious shrimps with spaghetti. At the beginning of May, we seemed to be the only guests on the small island. We really enjoyed the short break and the wonderful encounters with people and animals here.

#4 Walking tour of Arta

The city of 43,000 inhabitants is one of the least known places in Greece. Nevertheless, Arta seems likeable right away. It is a pleasant mix of centuries-old history paired with modern urban flair that makes the city a worthwhile destination.

There is a lot of activity in the tranquil pedestrian zone, only for a siesta it gets quiet in the otherwise lively city. There are countless shops and beautiful boutiques that make the shopping heart beat faster. Arta is a city for the locals. Here you will hardly find shops with souvenirs and “tourist junk”.

Sights in the old town of Arta

You can explore all the sights of the city on foot on a long walk. In the morning, it is worth stopping at the Agora of Arta. Here you will find one of the most beautiful weekly markets in Greece every day.

In the old market hall, traders from the region offer their fresh products every day. On the tables are fresh fruit and vegetables from the region, fish from the Ambracian Gulf, as well as plant pots and seeds.

North of the Agora is the Byzantine Kastro by Arta with its magnificent bell tower. The latter is 21 meters high and one of the oldest bell towers in Greece. The fortress was unfortunately closed to visitors during our time in May 2019. Events take place inside the castle complex in summer.

Behind the Agora you will find pretty alleys for strolling. With about 2,000 students, Arta shows itself to be a young and modern city. Don’t miss a visit to one of the crazy cafés, which are usually a bit hidden.

#5 The Bridge of Arta

The heart of the city is the Bridge of Arta. It is the oldest arch bridge in Greece and an architectural masterpiece. The Arachtos River flows under the 145-metre-long structure. Its emerald green color makes Arta’s postcard motif perfect.

To this day, the macabre story is still told that the master builder of the bridge had to sacrifice his wife. Only when the lady was walled into the foundation did the bridge finally hold up.

Right next to the four-arched bridge stands the mighty plane tree of Arta, which has to be supported by pillars. It will also “the plane tree of Ali Pasha” and is one of the oldest in Greece. Here you will also find some cozy cafes to linger in.

#6 Historical highlights in Arta

Artas over 2,700 years of history is mostly buried under new house foundations. Historical remains of old settlement times slumber under today’s city. Romans, Byzantines, Serbs and Ottomans ruled the strategically important region on the Ambracian Gulf.

The smallest amphitheatre in Greece

In the middle of the city centre, a small amphitheatre was found. It is the smallest of its kind in Greece, which is located directly in a modern settlement.

The city of Arta is located on the site of the ancient Ambracia, an important city 2,000 years ago. The city increasingly lost importance. In many places today, ruins of houses have been uncovered. It’s hard to imagine what Arta must have looked like in ancient times.

The Byzantine Church of Panagia Parigoritissa

Only the old Byzantine churches are still well preserved in the middle of the city center. Particularly impressive due to its size is the Panagia Parigoritissa. It is the largest Byzantine church in the Arta region.

The mighty church has been used by many peoples over the centuries and has been constantly expanded. The interior of the holy site is also particularly worth seeing, with its impressive domes, columns and frescoes.

Outside of Arta, it is worth taking a short detour to the coastal hamlet of Menidi. From here you also have a good view of the Ambracian Gulf and can enjoy the beautiful nature with a coffee in one of the numerous bars at the harbor.

#7 Tzoumerka and Artas’ hinterland

So far, the mysterious mountain region Tzoumerka. If you ask the Greeks about one of the most pristine regions of their country, the first thing that usually comes up is Tzoumerka. Architecturally similar to the Zagoria villages near Ioannina, hardly any tourist has ever strayed into this unique stretch of land.

Nestled between mighty mountains, you will find traditional villages with old stone houses, lonely monasteries, bridges and waterfalls. The scenic scenery is fantastically beautiful and can usually be enjoyed completely undisturbed during extensive hikes.

The small Rodavgi village is the gateway to this magical region. From here, on a clear day, you will have a breathtaking view of Mount Pramanta and the emerald Pournariou reservoir.

Unfortunately, we only made it this far, and were able to catch a small taste of this unique region. On our next visit, we will take a few days for this magnificent mountain landscape.

#8 Roman aqueduct at Agios Georgios

From Arta it is also worth taking a detour to Lake Ziros and an old Roman aqueduct north of the village of Filippiada. In ancient times, the latter ensured the water supply in the metropolis of Nicopolis, 50 kilometers away.

Some parts of the Roman aqueduct are still very well preserved. The Louros River makes its way here to the mouth of the Ambracian Gulf. A natural backdrop can hardly be more picturesque.

Directly behind the aqueduct there is a very nice park for picnics, as well as an old water mill and the Church of Agios Georgios. Ideal for a trip with the whole family. In summer, you can cool off in the crystal clear river.

#9 Beautiful Excursions & Tours in Arta

If you want to combine sport and nature, we recommend a Kayak tour on Lake Ziros. The emerald green lake is embedded in lush green vegetation. Together with Lukas from Into the Wild we paddled along the lake and enjoyed the beautiful nature here.

More information about sports activities around Arta available at: Into the Wild

North of Lake Ziros is also the “Kokkinopilos Preveza”. A valley with red rocks, which looks very impressive, especially in the warm sunlight. It consists mainly of small hills, which get their distinctive color from iron oxide.

More travel tips & information for Arta

Restaurant recommendation for Arta

Rodavgi Grill Restaurant, Rodavgi

We have particularly delicious in the village of Rodavgi in the Tavern of Nikos (ΡΟΔΑΥΓΗ ΚΑΦΕ – ΨΗΣΤΑΡΊΑ). Here you can still find real home cooking from mothers. The wild mushrooms and the wild herb salad were a real treat and the prices unbeatable!

The tavern also offers a magnificent view of the mountains of the Tzoumerka region. The restaurant is located directly behind the traditional Hotel Nisista of Rodavgi. The beautiful Nisista Hotel (Watch on Booking.com*) by Andreas is a good starting point for exploring Tzoumerka.

Accommodation on the Ambracian Gulf

Here we spent the night

Koronisia Apartments, Koronisia

We enjoyed our time in Arta region with the lovely Georgina in her Koronisia Apartments. The beautiful accommodation is located on the island of Koronisa overlooking the Ambracian Gulf.

The surroundings are absolutely quiet and the location perfect to explore Arta and the hinterland. Right next door is the Fish tavern from her brotherwhere you can enjoy delicious freshly caught fish and other Greek specialties. Here you can book the apartments directly via Booking.com*:

➲ To book the Koronisia Apartments*

Hotels and apartments in the Artà region

Via booking portals such as Aribnb.com and Booking.com you will find numerous accommodation options in the Arta region. Especially the Tzoumerka mountain villages also have very traditional accommodations.

→ About Booking.com* you will find many accommodations around Artàand you can check prices here:

Car hire for the Arta region

For exploring the sights in the Ambracian Gulf we recommend renting a car directly at Preveza airport. Just note, that on the route to Arta there are tolls. A cheap rental car for your trip to Epirus you can find on Discover Cars*:

➲ To the rental car booking*

How to get to the Epirus Arta region

The best way to reach the Arta region in southern Epirus is by direct flight to the city of Preveza. The associated airport Aktio (PVK) is only about an hour away from Arta. Condor flies once a week from Frankfurt, Munich, Stuttgart and Prague. EasyJet flies from Berlin Tegel to Preveza.

➲ To cheap flights to Preveza*

To explore Epirus, it is also worthwhile to travel with your own rental car. Especially the ferry crossing from Italy to Greece is worthwhile for individualists who want to do a Greece Road Trip. More tips can be found here: Getting to Greece

→ Other highlights in the Epirus region can be found at: Epirus, Greece

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